So I have a 96 gsr block with a 2000 gsr head built for turbo css block etc etc
Ran wires to the solenoid an to the power touched them when vtec would hit on my tune just sputtered.
Changed solenoid.
Changed rocker arm assembly an pins
Seal an dowel pin under cam cap 3
Put a ls vtec kit on it to run oil directly to head.
.didnt run wires to ecu from solenoid or pressure switch cause we did the test from the battery an vtec solenoid an got no where.
One thing that I was thinking my buddy changed out my dizzy an took guts from obd1 dizzy an put it in my obd2 dizzy
Can that have anything to do with it I'm running out of things to do some one please help me the car ripps on 15psi with no vtec. But I want vtec to work I didnt build it just to have a non working vtec car

 

Bump

 

Bump some one please

 

Was VTEC engaging before you replaced the dizzy

 

I never ran this motor with out it man it was just freshly rebuilt so no not with this dizzy

 

this motor is fresh before I used the obd1 dizzy before the rebuild but now it's in a em1 so we gutted it out an mated it to a obd2 dizzy shell an just took the guts

 

So there is a change in operation when you jump the VTEC solenoid on? That would mean that the oil and mechanical part is working.

 

We changed the whole rocker an pin assembly we checked for plug under intake side by dizzy changed the o ring an dowel pin under cam cap 3. What else in the head can be stoping it from engaging. The dizzy cant be the problem with the ckp an tdc? Cause we swapped the guts from a obd1 into a obd2

 

Oil pressure.

 

Wait. Why did you put a LS/VTEC oil kit on it? It is a GSR block with a GSR head, ergo, no need for a LS/VTEC oil system. I'm taking a stab, but i'm guessing the VTEC oil pressure sensor/switch isn't seeing the right pressures and therefore isn't engaging VTEC.

 

Also, why didn't you wire up your VTEC solenoid and oil pressure switch to the ECU?

 

 

I put one on just in case the head was plug for ls vtec bought the head off a local shop an had them put it on my block so never new if it had the plug or not so did it just for a test

 

Bump!!
Ran wires to the pressure switch an solenoid an still nothing changed rocker arm assembly an slide pins still nothing? Someone please help my I'm going crazy..

 

It breaks up when we enable vtec on the tune runs fine with vtec disabled. Do you think theres a clog somewhere in the head ?

 

Who built this engine and how many have they built previously ???

You either have an oil delivery problem in your build OR your mechanical timing is out of time (one or both cams are at least one tooth off from the crank).

So, first be SURE that your mechanical timing is correct.

If that is fine, let's focus on the oil delivery.

I am listing these items from bottom to top... I am not suggesting that you have to check these items in the order provided.

1) Oil pan caved in and pressed against the oil pick-up or clogged pick-up.
2) Bad oil pump or missing O-ring between the pump and the block.
3) Improperly clearanced or damaged main bearings... too loose.
4) Wrong or improperly installed head gasket. (External oil line would eliminate this possibility)
5) Plug in VTEC passage in cylinder head because it was used previously in a LS/Vtec application. (You have already run an external oil line and there was no change, so this is not likely the issue)
6) Missing oil plugs in the cylinder head that were removed during cleaning/machining by machine shop. (Check at the distributor end of the intake camshaft... there is a 1/8" NPT plug there.)
7) Missing or improperly installed rocker arm VTEC pins. (You have also stated that you have replaced these...

If I were to suggest the likely problem, I would be looking at #3 first... then #1 and #2.

As for the distributor... take that suspect cobbled-up (translation: POS) dizzy that your buddy built off and try a known-good distributor and see what changes.

 

For 1,2 would my car still run mint besides vtec ? Cause it runs great beside vtec boosting 19psi now an its awesome but I have vtec disabled. An the motor was built by a proformance shop in c.t know for turbo hondas. I'm just so frustrated man just want vtec to work I put the obd1 dizzy in I'm gunna put the lsv line back in after doing the dizzy an see if it changed anything using a obd1 dizyy

 

Yes, it could make good power without VTEC. This happens often in LS and CRV engines !!! Do you have a dyno graph that you can post of the power/torque curves to give us a better idea of how your system is performing in it's current condition ??? That would be helpful. Since you have stated that the engine runs great at 19psi... and you have no ignition break up... maybe your cobbled distributor isn't as bad as I have suggested.

Post a dyno sheet please.

 

OBD1 and OBD2 distributors are absolutely identical internally, and have nothing to do with vtec anyway. It is throwing a CEL for vtec? Have you tried another ECU? have you tried piggybacking a test light off the vtec solenoid to see if it lights up when vtec should activate? It sounds to me like an ECU or a tune issue personally.

 

Yeah man we used a different ecu to tune ot we use a different one that's has a moats ostrich plugged I changed the solenoid twice I have 2. We ran the wires right to the ecu after we tried with both of them wired in the harness. An I don't have a dyno sheet havent went to the dyno yet dont wanna dyno it with out vtec so me an my.tuner (who rents his friends dyno) so it's just street tuned

 

oh no.l.....street tuned,..

 

I dont wanna have to go twice when vtec is working it runs good my afrs are good not racing it or anything

 

skimmed the thread

new motor build, did you check the screen on the vtec solenoid? it may be clogged