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I've had one hell of a time getting this car going.
Started out with a bad (new) distributor cap. After a month of trying to fix it myself, finally took it to a shop and they figured it out.
However, the day they got it back to me, it died after just 30 minutes of driving. Came to a stop at a light, then then car puttered out while in idle.
It started, however died the second the car was stopped. I could get it started again however, I had to manually push the little thingy that opens a valve for air inside the PGM-FI while turning it over.
It's been back in shop for two weeks now, and nobody there knows what's going on, and have basically told me they can't/don't know how fix it.
I'm not sure all of what they've tried, but I'm hoping the collective knowledge here might be able to help me.
Anyone have any ideas I can pass on to them?
Last edited by DaveTheMedic; May 4, 2019 at 07:14 PM.
Main relay or something
Sometimes they work fine, with the electric current. The soder no longer makes contact
I was going to say main relay..
first time I had a main relay go out on me it was intermittent..
If I let the car cool down it seemed to start again
I don't think the cooling down actually helped i think i just got lucky to get it home
so I changed the relay and it was fine after that.
When the main relay goes due to solder it's almost always intermittent. Solder points heat up, separate, current doesn't flow. Let it cool, solder contracts, current flows again. Every time I've seen a main relay fail it's exactly like that. Every decent write-up on this has explained it to death.
A few things could cause this outside of the main relay. 1) loss of fuel pressure or a fuel regulator that is sticking. 2) a sticking idle air control valve 3) a bad throttle position sensor. 4) bad igniter in the distributor. You also want to make sure your alternator is working properly and providing good charge voltage at idle.
1989 CRX dies after running for 30-40 minutes
