Our builder tells us the blue smoke we see under high-speed downshifts it’s probably from lack of crank case and or valve cover ventilation. I see a lot about catch Cans and the right and wrong way to do them. Locating the can and venting the valve cover or not hard to do, that is not my question. Where do I vent the crank case? If I remember correctly there is a approximately 1 inch diameter opening on the back of the block which has a O-ring sealing it to a black vent like box. This is apparently not working or is not capable of handling the amount of pressure in our bottom end. if I remove this black block vent box how do I connect my Catch can hoses to it? Any ideas? Any suggestions? Anyone know of a complete kit for this?

 

isnt the blue smoke more of a bad valve seal or rings? i dont think a catch can is really going to solve your problems, but i see no reason not to try.

anyway, you can do completely without the PCV valve system (other than for emissions reasons). the black box in the back of the engine can be removed, you can either plug the 1" hole with a freeze plug, or put a nipple on it and use it to help vent the crankcase. But really, the other vent at the corner of the valve cover is all you need to route to the catch can. Plug up the nipple on the intake manifold (middle, about 1/4" sized) and the air intake tube (if your aftermarket intake has one). vent the catch can to atmosphere and thats it.

do not route any air back into the intake. that defeats the purpose of a catch can. any thread or diagram of it going back to the intake manifold is dumb.

a good spot for the catch can is where the OEM charcoal canister mounted on the firewall, i assume thats no longer there either. its got a nice tapered sleeve. it should not be hard to fabricate a mating mount in the right shape and attach it to whatever catch can you use.

the size and shape of the catch catch is unimportant in my opinion. get whatever you think looks pretty and has a filter on it with at least 1 nipple.

 

Go-Autoworks has the fitting to convert the hole in the back of the block to a -12AN fitting so it can be used with their catch cans. Their complete kit is here: GO-AUTOWORKS Catchcan Kits

You want to make sure wherever you vent your valve cover is under the baffle so that it is less likely to have a bunch of oil pushed into the catch can. Which head/engine are you running?

 

Stock VTEC single cam head with after market cam, springs and retainers. No head work beyond that Stock bottom end with slight compression increase requiring 91 octane. Old school PaceSetter header and superTrap exhaust, stock air box, 92 Civic SI intake and throttle body. Built by Aaron at Teague Speed Racing and tuned by Joe at Low Cash Racing. We have 136 to the wheels tuning with HondaData S300.

 

Cool, so I think all SOHC VTEC valve covers are the same (at least regarding baffle placement), and for the Z6, you want to vent on the angled area on the back of the valve cover, as this is where the baffle will cover the ports. Here's a shot of my setup for reference (EG, not an EF, but you get the idea).

 

Thanks a picture is worth a 1000 words. Funny my B series has the bungees welded on the opposite side of the valve cover.

I like the clean and well laid out engine bay. I like the fuel pressure gauge and regulator something I know my tuner wants to see in the future. What are the vaccum lines running from the intake and brake booster going to mounted on the fire wall?

 

B-series valve covers should ideally be vented on the front, as that's where the baffle is.

That's a vacuum manifold. Currently I've only got the sensor for the boost gauge there - I know, a boost gauge on a car with no turbo, but I am setting up all the supporting systems ahead of the turbo. Once I add the turbo, I'll run vacuum lines from the vacuum manifold to the blow off valve and waste gate. I've got a build thread over in the Forced Induction section with a lot more pictures.