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So I got a question for you d series guys. First and foremost I am knowledgeable on Honda’s had my share of boosted d’s and b swaps. But this is a different path for me.
backround: baught a 98 (I beleive) civic coupe d16y7 all stock and I’m building it to be a circle track dirt car (usra tuner) and I’m curious as to what options is there to squeeze any little bit I can out of the y7?
vtec is not allowed in the rules has to be stock motor for that car and “remain stock” So with that being said. Anyone have any ideas how to get whatever I can out of the y7?
first thing to go is the stock exhaust mani going 4-2-1
next is going to be swapping the y7 IM to the Y8
so what setup would be the best for my “stock” motor
if it can’t be seen than it’s still stock if you ask me.
So best parts to frankenstein the D that never could
just want to be competitive with the Ecotec cavaliers and 420a neons
and selling the car and getting one one of those isn’t an option at this point so we can just skip that comment
thanks in advance to anyone who helps or gives advice
It might help to know the HP range of the competition. I'm not familiar with neon 420A or the ecotec motors you are up against.
Also, are you allowed to add external parts like a turbo?
And if you are not, what kind of budget do you have to drop into the motor?
A basic stock upgrade that would require chip and tuning is to mini-me the motor. Swap your Y7 head for a Y8 head to get vtec and a little extra high end oomph.
Personally the dished pistons take a little away from the vtec heads and I would see about the B2/B7 block with a Y8 head to get as high Compression Ratio with stock parts, but this mini-me takes a bit more work.
The other D that couldn't is taking a B7 motor and putting the D16A6 cam into it, this is a non vtec upgraded cam setup, this too requires a tune and I think it ends right around the same power as a stock d16z6.
That car doesn't have any rust, your best option to be competitive is to sell it or trade it for a rusty integra or prelude. I think the 420a and ecotec make 140whp stock, and I don't see a way to overcome that even when you bend the rules. Y7 on a good day makes 100whp stock
That car doesn't have any rust, your best option to be competitive is to sell it or trade it for a rusty integra or prelude. I think the 420a and ecotec make 140whp stock, and I don't see a way to overcome that even when you bend the rules. Y7 on a good day makes 100whp stock
I'd have to agree with you there. If the competition is making 140 stock, there is no way a D series is going to be competitive power wise. Top D is around 125 WHP and that's maxed tuned out. I've not seen dyno charts for the B7 block/Y8 head mini-me but I figure that wouldn't be more than 130-133 WHP at best.
However, OP did mention dirt track racing. Which a little less power might just prove beneficial on the slippier surface, it's hard to say.
Unless there is a weight/per liter restriction, you will be under powered. Ecotec and 420a are DOHC engines and 2 liters. The torque is what you are after here and the D16Y7 lacks exactly that. I would recommend a Integra, prelude, rsx or accord as a better starting point.
Unless there is a weight/per liter restriction, you will be under powered. Ecotec and 420a are DOHC engines and 2 liters. The torque is what you are after here and the D16Y7 lacks exactly that. I would recommend a Integra, prelude, rsx or accord as a better starting point.
I'm not sure I follow the logic on torque as the desire for a less stable surface.
I was always under the impression that it's about putting the power to the ground, too much torque breaks the tires free faster and easier. A little less torque might actually be an advantage in dirt?
These cars usually are wide open throttle, and slow in the turns due to the stock all season tires then back on the throttle. I don't see the 100 hp, coming out of a corner like the 2.0's. It's all part of learning how to drive the car. I would rather have the torque and power and be graceful (reduce spin) with the throttle than to be wide open and making a lot of noise and going nowhere with 90-100 hp/tq. I have a friend that races these cars and is heavily invested in the sport and he switched from K series to ford's 2.0 just for the lower rpm power and torque so far it has paid off.
These cars usually are wide open throttle, and slow in the turns due to the stock all season tires then back on the throttle. I don't see the 100 hp, coming out of a corner like the 2.0's. It's all part of learning how to drive the car. I would rather have the torque and power and be graceful (reduce spin) with the throttle than to be wide open and making a lot of noise and going nowhere with 90-100 hp/tq. I have a friend that races these cars and is heavily invested in the sport and he switched from K series to ford's 2.0 just for the lower rpm power and torque so far it has paid off.
Thanks for the clarification. Definitely helps the understanding!
I had a neighbor who did a 4 banger dirt track race car but I wasn't in the neighborhood long to gain any real insight into it.
what do the rules say about transmissions? get the gearing right (Z6/Y8 1-5, Mfactory final 4.5, 4.7 or 4.9) and the modest power may not matter too much.
98 d16y7 5 speed dirt track car
