Hey guys,

Some background: It's a civic 95 EH, D16 turbo. I bought the car with a slippy worn clutch. I replaced it with a new action clutch 1MS and a lightweight flywheel (forgot the brand).
I replaced a couple of S20 transmissions since than, and currently I have a fully rebuilt S40 tranny with new bearings and synchrotech carbon synchros.
Ever since I remember the car - High rev gear changes was pretty difficult. It was hard to shift gears, sometimes locked the gears, and sometimes grinded.
The last run it grinded in two gears. I had enough of it and decided to try and fix it.

I read somewhere over the net, that extending the master cylinder gives more of a clutch pedal travel, and makes the separation better.
So I went under the dashboard, to the pedal area, and realized the master cylinder was leaking. I replaced it with a new one, extended the cylinder rod almost all the way out, and bleed the system.
Now, the engaging point is way higher then before, and the pedal has much more travel, and very little pedal free play.

The problem now is, changing gears even in low engine revs and even while standing is way harder than before. When it happens, it feels like the gear comes in in "two steps", and sometimes it just stuck in the first step, and when I rev the engine a bit (with the clutch pedal still depressed all the way down), it suddenly comes right in.
I don't know what is the cause of it. Maybe the last grinding event has something to do with it (Something inside the tranny went wrong)? Maybe the "over extended" master cylinder rod causing a problem? Maybe the new master cylinder is bad, even though the pedal feels stiff and fine?

Engine and tranny mounts are good, shifter feels very tight with no play, using Honda MTF,

BTW, I replaced also the slave cylinder, even though the old one looked fine and wasn't leaking. It made no change.

Any help / thoughts will be appreciated.

 

Did you bench bleed the new master cylinder?

Did you bleed the slave cylinder to make sure there is no air in the line?

 

Nope. I bleed them together on the car. This is out I did it:
At first I just worked the pedal in and out while making sure the reservoir never gets empty, while slave cylinder bleeding hole is opened.
Then I closed the bleeding hole, and have someone pumping the pedal, then holding it while I open the bleeding hole. I repeated this procedure a couple of times. At the end, I saw no bubbles coming out of the slave. Pedal is stiff.
Am I missing something? Do you think I still got air inside the system?
What do you mean by bench bleeding, and how are you doing it?

 

Ok so I searched bench bleeding around the net and realized what is it and how to do it.
If you think it might help, I'll take out the master cylinder and give it a try.

 

since youve already got it installed you can "bench bleed" it on the car. Just do the procedure the same as you would in a vise, except that you use your foot to do the work. I prefer doing it this way. Just have another person watch for air bubbles in the reservoir. Also make sure the pedal rod is properly adjusted. Being out of adjustment can cause drag, which can also make gear changing difficult, notchy, grinds, etc. Especially when using a performance clutch setup.