I have been watching too many videos and reading how to do this, now Im confused on the point of adjusting each rocker arm.
I did read through this thread..

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...r-f22-2477017/

and I took the 19mm at the base crankshaft at the driver side front tire well and turned counter clock wise until the up (white mark) was pointing up.
This from my understanding is top dead center for cylinder 1.
When I look at the cam shaft lobes though under the 4 rocker point of contact - they arent all in the down state. I had maybe confused having to make sure they are from Eric The Car guys video where he makes this point.
He had said that to make sure the teardrop shape of the lobe is pointing downward (pointy side down) before you adjust the valve lash.

Here is a pic of the 1st cyl at what should be top dead center



I had cranked until the up mark was at the top.



Can anyone help me get this right?

 

Hmmph...
You're treading in dangerous waters here, and methinks you went off the rails a tad on your valve adjustment. ETCG simply emphasizes the best practice of adjusting valves sequentially, beginning sensibly enough at cyl 1, which he explains with excruciating thoroughness. I cannot comprehend how one could possibly construe or infer from that video any suggestion of evaluating the rocker arms and/or cam is part of a valve adjustment job.

If, whilst doing the deed, you feel no movement in a rocker arm at the target cylinder, double-check that:

1. Your timing marks are perfectly aligned; and,
2. you're genuinely "at" the cylinder indicated by the timing mark.

And that's it. If, for example, you turned the engine to cylinder 1, grab the exhaust rocker and give it an up/down wiggle to quickly get a sense of overall movement. No movement doesn't mean you need to check cam lobes! It means the exhaust valves might be a wee tight! Just follow the procedure as ETCG demonstrates: get your feeler gauge--use the average thickness between the tolerance extremes--and check clearances! That's all you need to do. If after a bunch of attempts the feeler won't slip in, loosen the adjustment nut a smidgen--turn the adjustment screw a smidgen until the feeler gauge slips in--then tighten the nut--then reassess with your feeler gauge again (loosen and readjust and repeat) until the feel is just right--exactly as demonstrated in ETCG's video. Repeat this arduous process at each valve. At no point will you take a wrench to the rocker arm proper or the cam bolts, or assess their position with respect to the valve adjustment. Just be conscientious about turning the engine to the next cylinder and then confirm you are, in fact, at that cylinder.

B'woof. I'll bet your sphincter is going to tingle when you first turn the key.

btw...
ETCG imparts a very wise adage regarding adjusting valves: "It's better to hear them than to smell them." Take heed of this exhortation. Noisy (eg., "clicking") valves means you set one or more clearances a tad too generously. Heave a plaintive sigh, 'cause you're going to have to dismantle the top of the engine again and re-adjust those that are too loose. The upshot, however, is you have the luxury of doing it whenever you next have the time--there's really no harm being done to the engine driving it while it makes that annoying racket. But.. BUT... if you hear dull cyclic moan accompanied by a not-quite-right odor at that first start, kill the engine tout de suite--you've set one or more valves too tight. Plan on not starting the engine again until you perform another valve adjustment to remedy your previous valve adjustment, though only after the engine is cold as a dead woman's cooch, of course.

btw... btw...
Honda does NOT recommended a valve adjustment as routine maintenance or for tweaking performance. IOW... valve adjustments are generally not needed nor recommended on 6th gen Honda engines... period. Dunno if that holds for all Honda engines across all the generations, however. Further, Honda recommends a valve adjustment as the last course of action when all other methods to remedy a "random misfire" situation have been performed. For an interesting bit of validation of this point, Honda Techs I've talked to about this very subject confirm that a valve adjustment is done only in one of two circumstances: to address the random misfire gremlin OR to fix a botched valve adjustment. I believe ETCG mentions these very things in that same video.

Good luck.

 

Thanks Lothian, I greatly appreciate the reply and the details within!

Some background on why I was doing this to begin with. Actually, crazy and stupid enough on my part is that I did this same thing for the same reason in 2012 some 50k ago. I went to check spark plugs and there was oil in one of the plug wells. I then saw ETCGs video on how to handle that, take off the rocker assembly and replace orings and reinstall the assembly and then do a valve lash adjustment since taking the assembly off couldve thrown things off. Of course all this was 7 years ago and I couldnt find any notes on how I did it, what I referenced etc. Im pretty sure I read and followed the valve lash adjustment thread on this site where you take off the timing cover and turn with a 19mm at the bottom of the engine.

So back to present day, did the same thing the other day. Pulled out the plug wires and dang! #2 cyl was deep in oil




So I bought the same felpro kit at advance (which I may regret again since it may be the cause of the leak this time) and did all that ETCG illustrated. Then I saw his video on valve lash, and he went for the power steering pulley and in that video made points about how each rocker had to be on the base of the lobe...at least thats how the video looked to me. Thats when I got totally turned around as to what is the correct way.

This thread was the way I remembered doing it in 2012
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...r-f22-2477017/

I just wanted to be sure I had the right understanding, I think ETCG had a different engine in the video, not the F22 Ive got it seems.
This morning I went out and followed the instrux in the thread link above and I sure hope I did a good job this time.

Then I got the bright idea to clean the injectors while I was at it...and you know how that went
This time Im taking notes and if there is a next time Ill at least know where I went wrong the last time.

 

I also discovered oil in one of my plug tubes. With the usual weeping all around the valve covers, I decided to replace the original valve cover gasket and tube seals. I also chose the Fel-Pro gaskets. Gawd... what an awful product.

The tube seals are a hassle to install, and a the valve cover with the new seals was a hassle to align. Sure enough, I damaged one of the seals while scooching the cover around, and I had to replace it. Turns out, the reviews of the Fel-Pro product mention their susceptibility to tearing. I ended up purchasing a new set of tube seals from NAPA, which seemed made of stouter stuff, and replacing the lot. So I guess in lieu of using Genuine Honda parts (of course), in this particular application, this stranger recommends NAPA.

The next time you do a valve adjustment--and that possibility is great--remove your plugs first. It's waaaay easier to turn the engine without compression.