Hey. I'm kinda new to the honda forums and I'm just looking for help I have a 98 civic hatchback with the stock d16y7 non vtech and it's been having a weird skipping issue I rebuilt the motor about a year and half ago and drove it for about a month and it started skipping looked and found the head gasket messed up got a new head and found the new one with a crack so I had the original head machined inspected and rebuilt the motor again hopeing the skip would go away this time. Now I've done replaced all plugs wires, plugs, distributor, new injectors and I've been through a list of everything I can think of it to be but yet to get the problem fix and I really just want my honda back on the road so any help would be awesome

 

Skipping? Can you describe the problem further?

 

Alright I've been working on it and running every day lately and now when u first start it up it skips and sputters real bad and as it warms up it kinda goes away but it is still noticeable that its having issues. I did get a code reader and checked the cel and I got a code for random misfire one cylinder 1, 3, 4 and an the it has code p0453 witch is an evap control system pressure sensor high input and also code p0450 evap control system sensor.

 

Ok so we will assume the check engine light is first related to the evap codes, the purge valve could be at fault and leaking air into the intake manifold causing the car to misfire.

You could cap the hose going to the sensor from the intake manifold to see if the car runs better. The purve valve is suppose to restrict vacuum from the canister to pull air fumes from the gas tank

Do you notice any gas smells under the hood?

 

Valves adjusted too tight will cause loss of compression and misfiring at idle. A compression test is in order considering all the work that has been done to this engine.

Does it drive OK? They don't like to sit around and idle, you can't tell a lot from that.

 

Alright I know this reply is late but I my phone was stolen and had to get another one anyhow. The valves on the car have been checked and adjusted to book specs and the purge valve. When I pull the vaccum hose going to the intake off the car idles up and I use my fingers to allow some air into the intake witch i turn allowed it to run idle better. Pulled the purge solenoid off the car and applies power straight from the batter to the solenoid and it opened and closed proper but for some reason it will not open while connected to the wire harness on the car.

 

What would cause the purge valve to not operate properly while connected to the vehicle wire harness

 

If you're talking about the evap purge valve connected to the charcoal canister, it's not supposed to open at idle. It opens when driving so that the extra air and gas vapors are not a noticeable change.

If idling too slow you need to check / clean the IACV, check the TPS with a voltmeter, and follow the service manual's idle setting procedure.

 

The iac has been cleaned and checked and it's all working properly. All that is great I'm still getting all four cylinder misfire and random miss fire codes and also p0453 and p0450 one for emission pressure sensor high input and evap pressure sensor. Also when I pull the vaccum hose off of the purge valve it's not pulling any vaccum at an rpm on the side going to the canister but the side coming from the intake when I use my hand to regulate the vaccum flow it goes to a perfect idle and sounds better then ever while revving until I put the vaccum hose from the intake back onto the purge valve. Anyhow could a temp sensor be causing the ecu to think that the car is not running or heating up

 

I'll bring home my volt meter tomorrow and run test on everything

 

I could be wrong but the purge valve doesnt operate on 12v, if it responds to the ecu commands that command is less than 5volts.

So 12v to an engine sensor will fry it

 

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