So I bought a donor car that has a JDM B16A (w/ LSD) and 3rd gear has a minor grind when upshifting from 2nd (when double-clutching, it shifts fine). It has no problem staying in gear and downshifting from 4th is flawless. So I disassembled the transmission today to asses 3rd gear and its correspondents and this is what they look like:



The sychro doesn't look too bad (what do I know, this is my first time "rebuilding" a transmission), but 3rd gear itself does have a little marring. The selector sleeve is what I've noticed to be screwed up the most - the teeth seem to be rounded/chipped (see arrows). The sleeve hub looks perfect; as in, no marring or any visible scratches at all. What do you think? What should I replace? I don't want to put this thing back together and complete my swap, only to find out it still grinds.

Also, I found this on reverse gear's (?) corresponding gear:

The teeth seem to be a little chewed up. Is this a serious issue? Thanks.

 

You might get faster answers in the drivetrain section. Always hard to tell from pictures... your teeth on third gear still look ok to me, really hard to see the wear on your slider teeth from that angle. The straight cut gear is reverse, and typically shows wear. Have you checked the synchro clearance to see if it is worn beyond spec?

 

I have not checked the clearance. In fact, I am currently unable to check it as I do not have the proper equipment to do so (I'm guessing a feeler gauge is required?). As for the slider/selector sleeve, the teeth on both sides are visibly marred/rounded/damaged. I'm pretty sure this is a must-replace.

I'll check out the drivetrain section - I didn't know we had one.

 

I agree that you need to use feeler gauges to check the synchro to gear clearances. If they are out of spec or close to the lower end, replace them. To me, transmission rebuilds are those kind of rebuilds where you should replace as much as you can while you've got it apart. At least a full bearing and seal kit. Most transmissions are going to have that wear on reverse - it's not a big deal. Look at Synchrotech's rebuild kits range from $700 for the full deal (minus diff bearings) down to $225 for just bearings and seals. If you're on a budget, you could still do the bearing and seals, then just buy the specific synchro and slider you need.

Make sure you're comfortable checking the shim thickness for the main shaft if you replace components on it. Other than that and a few bearing pullers / presses, I think transmission work is pretty straight forward.

 

I see that my thread was moved. Probably for the best. Anyways here are some new, better-lit photos:


I'm thinking about getting Synchrotech 3rd and 4th (non-carbon) synchros with a 3rd-4th hardened sleeve (comes in a set). What I've noticed however, is that their synchros have gaps (of "missing" teeth), unlike the OEM synchros which have teeth all around. I messaged the seller and they said their synchros will fit '94+ b-series hydro transmissions. I don't know what year my engine came from but it is a hydro trans (code sticker was removed and it was spray painted ) and I'm guessing it's a YS1. Will their synchros fit my trans?

 

give synchrotech a call. They are very helpful on the phone. They should be able to get you fixed up with exactly what you need.

 

Yeah, with the proper tools 'n such, trannies aren't too bad. But I don't have all the proper tools, let alone the cash for them (right now), and because I don't have the cash, I won't be doing a full rebuild. Keep in mind that my transmission has only ~50K miles on it, which shows by how pristine it is on the inside. It's just the previous owner got a little too happy after the swap and rekt 3rd gear. I will however, do some research on the shim(ming) process. I'm also willing to pull the transmission down the road (when I have cash) to do preventative maintenance, if need be--it's not too hard.

 

Pictures of the 3/4 shift fork? Both sides.

 

Say it ain't so, Joe.

 

Here's something that I've noticed while playing around with the 3rd gear assembly. If I put pressure on the synchro itself while rotating it on the cone of the dog-teeth piece, it grips the cone like a functioning synchro. BUT, when I assemble the hub to the synchro and apply the same amount of pressure while rotating, the synchro does NOT grip the cone and spins freely (it's when I put an immense amount of pressure, that it begins to grip (slightly)). Is this something to be concerned about, or is this normal?

EDIT: Okay, I've now assembled the selector sleeve/collar onto the hub, onto the synchro, onto the 3rd gear cone. When I apply pressure on the sleeve/collar simulating the selector fork, the synchro grips normally.

Physics amirite?

 

 

 

So I decided to go ahead and buy Synchrotech's 3rd and 4th brass synchros + 3rd-4th hardened selector sleeve (set), which will be delivered next week. In the mean time I want to discuss this here clutch:



Is this thing worth saving money over a new clutch? This is the first time I've ever dealt with a clutch and I was thinking about buying a Exedy OEM or stage 1 clutch (I'd rather save the money if possible) since I have the tranny open. The brand seems to be called LuK and the pressure plate looks reinforced, and it does have a lot more spring-tension plus chatter than I'm used to. Maybe it's a stage 1 clutch?


Also, will the input-shaft seal leak if I don't replace it? The bearing is in great shape and I'm afraid that if I tap it out to replace the seal I'll damage the bearing.

 

 

 

My car is going to be "stock" for a good while, which will only make about 116 ft/lbs of torque. But I also want a more aggressive clutch as well (compared to my d15b7 (really soft)). That is why I'm trying to identify the clutch that came out of the B16. I think it's a stage 1, but I don't know for sure.

 

Replace the seal. Silly not to since its easier and cheaper than doing it again and having to replace an oil soaked clutch.

I recommend the Action Clutch 1OS. It's a full facedcopper infused organic disc with fully enclosed springs and a heavy duty pressure plate. 1OS

 

Welp, back again with more pics... The Synchrotech parts came today, however I do have some concerns regarding the sleeve:




Where do I start... So, upon assembling the new sleeve to the OEM hub, a notable amount of "low-tolerance" made the fitment of the two parts extremely tight. Sliding the two back and forth smoothed it out a little but I noticed there being gouges on the hub and so I inspected the sleeve which seems to have a lot of burring. In the first pic, you can see the OEM sleeve on the left and the Synchrotech sleeve on the right. Notice how flush the machining is above the small tooth, compared to the massive burr on Synchrotech's.

Also, notice how the small tooth is taller (and crooked) on Synchrotech's sleeve as compared to the OEM one. This leads to the second two pictures... The ruler isn't there to read an accurate measurement, but to show the difference in area the sleeve allows itself to move on the hub and engage into 4th gear. Synchrotech's sleeve allows significantly less area of itself to engage 4th gear than the OEM sleeve and that raises some concern (for me). Should I try and Dremel the sleeve closer to OEM spec? Or do I just toss this thing into the trans and hope for the best?

 

Luk is actually an OEM clutch for a LOT of manufacturers, and they are extremely good quality. I would keep that clutch. Just make sure you torque the flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts to proper spec, and use some blue loctite (medium strength) on them as well. If anything, maybe replace the throwout bearing with a new OEM bearing. They're pricey, but well worth it.

As for the syncrotech sleeve; send it, it'll be fine. You'll never notice the stiffness/notchiness in the shifter, and it will wear-in anyway with simple use. What I would suggest though is to run 5w-30 CONVENTIONAL motor oil (NOT synthetic or synthetic blend) in the transmission for a few hundred miles. then while the trans is hot, drain it and fill with fluid of your choice. I suggest Torco MTF.

While the trans is apart, make sure you clean off the magnet really really well, and DO NOT forget to put the magnet back in its place before assembly.

Lastly, don't worry about the input shaft seal. If you don't have the proper bearing puller to remove that bearing, you will almost definitely damage the bearing trying to remove it. Hell, even with the correct tool it's common to damage the bearing. just wrap the splines of the shaft with some saran wrap, or a single layer of electrical tape, and slather some grease along the entire shaft as well as on the saran wrap or tape so it doesn't damage the seal as you reassemble it.

 

Do not worry everyone! I did not abandon this thread. It's just that I've been running into complications with ordering OEM parts, waiting, and the parts not arriving, and receiving refunds, and ordering again from different retailers, and waiting, and etc...

I did some touch up work on the Synchrotech selector sleeve and it now sits on my desk assembled with most of the main shaft (3rd gear to reverse). In fact, I've been using it as my own "fidget spinner"/"stress ball" thing where I'd pretend my hand is the selector fork and shift between third and forth gear, back and forth. I'm virtually breaking in the new components even before I install them into the transmission. Anyways, I'm currently waiting for more parts to be delivered.

As for right now: I'm doing the timing belt and related components while the B16 is on the stand. Got the crank pully off with new air tools and a Lisle socket which worked like a charm. Once I got the timing belt covers off, I found that it has vintage VMS adjustable cam gears and a Gates Racing timing belt (blue(ish)). I've also found that the amount of tension put on the Gates belt really gets the noggin joggin'. There's literally a millimeter between the timing belt and the engine mount (refer to the pic below):


I'm not sure if this is something to worry about as this is my first timing belt job. This concern leads me to my next question: would it be unwise to reuse this timing belt? I've bought a new Gates standard timing belt (which included a tensioner and water pump) to replace the old one, but I didn't the old one was a Gates Racing belt. I cleaned the Racing belt with soapy water and scrubbed it with a toothbrush and there's no cracks or anything. It does feel stiff and sounds like a piece of wood if I tap it with my fingernail - maybe it's because if the different materials? The belt shouldn't have anymore than several thousand miles on it, but then again, it is several years old. So... should I just reuse the Racing belt or use the new standard belt?

 

use the new standard belt. Nobody seems to know for sure, but it seems the only difference with the blue racing belt is the blue viton coating which is much more resistant to various chemicals. Chemicals that should never have any reason to get on the belt to begin with.
Based on that tensioner position, either that's the wrong belt, or the belt is stretched really really badly. The new components should give a lot more clearance there.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll just brake clean the hell out of the preexisting clutch which will be mated to a new 9.5 lb flywheel. And I'll just install the new timing belt as the old belt could very well be out of shape (or incorrect), causing the engine to run funky like it did. If the front and rear main seals aren't leaking, should I just leave them? I want to get as much life out of them and I don't mind pulling the engine again several thousand miles later down the road, now that I have the proper tools.

 

Okay, so I pulled off the old water pump and put it side by side with the new Gates unit. Lo and behold, the gear on the old pump is smaller than the Gates gear:


Both timing belts have the same item number: T227 (the racing belt is T227RB) so they both should be the same dimensions and tooth count. Maybe the smaller gear on the on the old water pump was causing the tension to be wacky. But wouldn't this cause the car to not even run (I have no clue)? The real question now is: which one is the correct size?

 

I believe you have a GSR waterpump on the right side. 22 teeth.

Do some research regarding B series waterpumps, you should find your answer. 19 vs 22 teeth and gear sizing is a factor.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...pumps-2611484/

B18A/B (LS) waterpump = 19T

B18C1/C5 (GSR/ITR) = 22T

As long as the pump and belt match it should be ok.