HairyHarry

What in tarnation? The kit I bought is this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Gates-Timin...3/272513730022

It says that it's for the B16A's... Are both 19 tooth and 22 tooth pumps not for the B16? I'll take a look at your link...

HairyHarry

I did some further digging in regards to the subject and I've read that "all" VTEC b-series engines use 22 tooth water pumps, while non-VTEC b-series use 19 tooth water pumps.

I also looked up the OEM water pump for the B16A3 (19200-P30-003) and it has 22 teeth. So all in all, the person who worked on my engine before me, used the wrong water pump, mix-matching it with the Gates Racing belt. The car still ran though (albeit not ideally).

(Lots of arguing on this forum: timing belt and water pump in B16a1 - Generation 2 Integra Club Forum)

Caoboy

I would assume you're safe using basing your engine parts shopping off 99-00 Si specs, your current belt and ppump will work fine.

Did it not tension right before?

HairyHarry

Yeah I should be good with the new Gates water pump, hopefully. The Gates Racing belt was nice and tight (maybe too tight) with the old setup, but the spring attached to the tensioner was virtually not in use as the spring was completely unsprung/closed. The tensioner itself was as high and left as it could go, which left the belt with literally a millimeter of clearance from the engine mount (as seen in my pic). I'm thinking the smaller, incorrect water pump is what allowed the belt's positioning to get that way, almost rubbing against the mount.

The larger, correct water pump should space the belt out more like it should be, correcting the system back into spec.

motoxxxman

Yup, that would be why, and the new 22t pump should take care of that.
Make sure not to overtighten the belt. don't add pressure to the tensioner when tightening the center bolt. Only allow spring tension to pull on it. Set belt on properly, turn crank 3 teeth CCW, tighten tensioner, rotate crank CCW two full turns back to TDC, double check belt alignment, loosen tensioner, turn crank 3 teeth CCW and hold tension on the wrench that is rotating the crank, tighten tensioner, done. A belt that is too tight will wear out super prematurely and potentially break. It will also cause rapid wear to the water pump and tensioner bearings, and can cause issues with the cam journals and cams.

HairyHarry

Got everything installed (days ago) and the 22 tooth water pump positioned the timing belt back to normal. I also went ahead and installed the new timing belt, instead of the old racing one...


What I'm trying to figure out is: wouldn't the smaller water pump throw it out of timing, especially with a mismatched timing belt?

Also, can I lather some silicone grease onto the (already installed) rear main seal to prevent it from drying out and leaking? Or will it damage the seal causing it to leak?

HairyHarry

Alright, back on topic here... I received all of the parts needed to reassemble the transmission which I should be able to do within a day. My next step in the assembly process is installing a new input shaft bearing and seal, however there's a couple of things I am concerned about: first being how the old seal left a white/dull residue on the polished aluminum seat. Although the contamination is thin, it still makes the sealing surface irregular which is worrying me. Anyone know what I'm talking about? How do I clean the surface without scratching it? (Brake cleaner didn't to squat.) Second: should I apply some sort of lubricant (obviously not a petroleum-based lube) like Sil-Glyde to the seal before installing, so that it slides into place easier? Or should I use soapy water (like I do for my oil filter seal) so that it evaporates after the seal is in position, eliminating risk of leakage? I really would like to know these before I result to continuing blindly (research isn't coming up with solid answers either).

bigjon1378

iTrader: (2)

i am also working on my b16 transmission and do not have any put just yet but id like to read more info in this thread so i am commenting now until i have more to share, thank you.

HairyHarry

Okie dokie, I think now would be a good time (a little late but better than never) to conclude this thread with the results of my work and post-installation testing.... It's been over a week since I finished the swap and I have put roughly 350-400 miles on the B16A.

First I will start with where we left off regarding the seals and how to install them. So, for the cleaning of the input-shaft seal seat, I used some PB Blaster (for some reason), Napa's Aluminum Brightener (this stuff will actually stain polished aluminum), and brake cleaner. With these products, I did get the majority of the oxidized aluminum crud off and made the seat fairly smooth.

Then I began the input-shaft seal installation, which took two tries ... During the first try, I managed to damage the new seal by trying to install it via tapping it in a star pattern using the bottom of a ratchet. Even though I was using soapy water as a lubricant, the rubber ended up splitting (where I hit) and it peeled off of the metal part of the seal (one of several setbacks in my project). I eventually got another new seal and this time I used an impact socket the size of the seal and tapped it in as a whole -- again, I used soapy water as the lubricant to get the seal in and it worked. After installation, I slathered the inner circumference of the seal with Napa's Sil-Glyde silicone grease.

Next I installed the new input shaft bearing: I put a thin layer of Sil-Glyde on the outer race of the bearing to help it slide into the seat, then I used a block of wood to tap it in -- no setbacks here.

For the axle seals, I cleaned the seating surface with a little bit of the Aluminum Brightener and brake cleaner, and then used more soapy water for installing the seals. Here, since the seals were much thicker, I decided to tap them in using the butt of the ratchet (honestly I should have used the wood handle of a hammer). I tapped them in a star-like pattern until the edge of the seals were flush with the case and then slathered the outer and inner lips of the seals (including the springs) with more Sil-Glyde.

When I installed the half-shaft and the axles, I put Lucas Oil's urea green grease on the splines going into the differential -- not sure if this was needed but I did it anyways. After roughly 400 miles, there are no leaks coming from the axles. I can't really tell if the input-shaft seal is leaking or not but so far no drips are coming from the bell housing.

Now for the transmission components and rebuild itself... I went ahead and used the Synchrotech 3rd and 4th selector sleeve, but I re-assembled the input-shaft using the OEM synchros. Actually, I used the 3rd gear's OEM synchro on 4th gear with 4th gear's original synchro spring, and used the 4th gear's OEM synchro on 3rd gear with a new Synchrotech spring. This probably wasn't the smartest decision, but... NO MORE GRINDS! (Except for a once-in-a-blue-moon 5th gear ultra-mild grind due to the selector being a little worn.) However, 4th gear does feel less smooth at times compared to 3rd gear or the others -- no grinds, just a little harsh at times (not even 50% of the time)... I'm not sure if using the Synchrotech synchros would have made it 100% perfect but... The Synchrotech springs installed onto the Synchrotech synchros were kind of loose and the shallowness of the inner gripping-grooves, as compared to the OEM ones, made me reconsider their longevity. I also sanded the cones of 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear with 1000 grit sand paper -- not sure if that helped but whatever.


I then put the transmission back together: re-installed the shafts (using Saran wrap on the input splines), Hondabond-ed the two halves together, torqued it by hand in a criss-cross pattern, installed it, and filled it up with ACDelco Synchromesh Friction Modified trans fluid -- no leaks to be seen. I did clean the LuK clutch disk and pressure plate with brake cleaner and reinstalled them onto a new 9.5lb flywheel, also reusing the throw-out bearing with urea grease (no problems so far). As for the front and rear main seals, I did apply a thin layer of Sil-Glyde to their rubber surfaces to keep them "hydrated". Additionally, the timing belt seems to be working as it should -- I did a valve job and set the ignition timing (it was really retarded, hopefully that didn't do too much damage) and the thing idles really nice, just kind of clickity-clackity.

So once again, no more (3rd gear) grinds . For the most part, the transmission is back in good, functioning condition. But I am still within my break-in period (a precautionary 500 miles for the new flywheel mated to a reused clutch) in which I've only been up to 4-4.5K rpm. I haven't engaged VTEC yet nor have I done any "serious" shifting (I'm not sure if I want to do any "serious" shifting) so I'm not sure if it will grind at higher rpms. I guess I'll find out eventually.

One thing that's bugging the hell out of me is this reoccurring coolant leak. First it started at the small hoses coming from the head, etc... with those pressure hose clamps -- fixed them using those screw-type hose clamps. Then it started leaking from the thermostat housing -- fixed it by smoothing out the mating surfaces and using Hondabond on the seal. Then it starting leaking from the (old and cracked) radiator drain plug o-ring -- fixed it by replacing the o-ring. Now it's leaking again from the small hose coming from the head. Not sure what's going on here but it's really is annoying.

Also, what are some tips to keep my transmission in good condition (other than not raping it of course)? Was the ACDelco Synchromesh a good choice? Anyways, thanks to everyone who had an input. I'd say the the swap was an overall success.

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

Ditch the Synchromesh for Torco MTF.

motoxxxman

^x2^
I literally just ordered another 3 quarts of it from Autoplicity about 5 minutes before I read this post.

HairyHarry

Ayo hol up. I shelled out 55 bucks for my 3 qts of Synchromesh. Is there a significant advantage to using Torco over Synchromesh (and even Honda MTF)?

Aquafina

iTrader: (3)

It is the proper viscosity and had a much better EP package than the other two mentioned.