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Just picked up a 89 hatch bone stock, ran good till 3k ish rpm then threw code 8 and ran like crap sputtering wouldn't even get to 3k floored in neutral. Put a new dizzy on and now it runs good till i hit redline then throws
code 8 and same thing sputters and barely revs. Shut it off for a sec start it and runs fine till redline again. Any help would be appreciated, thanks
So you're repeatedly redlining your bone stock ED when you know it's going to screw the car up? After you've blown the engine, please PM me before scrapping the car.
Replace the distributor - sensor is internal and technically not replaceable. Clean up the ground on the thermostat housing while the distributor is off.
EDIT: Missed that you swapped the distributor already. Where'd you source it? Check wiring.
Last edited by scelestus; Jan 22, 2019 at 09:13 AM.
Reason: Still learning to read
So you're repeatedly redlining your bone stock ED when you know it's going to screw the car up? After you've blown the engine, please PM me before scrapping the car.
Replace the distributor - sensor is internal and technically not replaceable. Clean up the ground on the thermostat housing while the distributor is off.
EDIT: Missed that you swapped the distributor already. Where'd you source it? Check wiring.
its a honda bro i can hold redline all the way to work and back for years to come with this stock d15, thats if i can figure out the problem lol. I'll clean that ground up and see if that helps. Its a new mastercraft dizzy
I checked the wiring, pulled every pin out the connectors and sanded and pinched them tight so they squeeze the dizzy pins. No change but i did get a code 6 until the car warms up, it was a cold morning. Not sure if the temp sensor could have anything to do with code 8?
I checked the wiring, pulled every pin out the connectors and sanded and pinched them tight so they squeeze the dizzy pins. No change but i did get a code 6 until the car warms up, it was a cold morning. Not sure if the temp sensor could have anything to do with code 8?
Inspecting the ends doesn't tell you if you have continuity. You need a multi-meter.
I checked the wiring, pulled every pin out the connectors and sanded and pinched them tight so they squeeze the dizzy pins. No change but i did get a code 6 until the car warms up, it was a cold morning. Not sure if the temp sensor could have anything to do with code 8?
Codes 6 and 8 are separate problems. Fix both.
If you measure the correct resistance from the two TDC wires in the ECU connector, then the ECU is likely bad.