When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey all, Haven't posted in ages but i frequently search threw the site for knowledge when needed.
Alright.so.
i have a 98 civic ex coupe w/ a y8 and im damn near 300k.
i also have a B18A1 from a buddys integra that i plan on rebuilding in order to replace the y8.
have my game plan and info together for getting the drivetrain into the car,but and questions,
comments,concerns,advice, you wanna add in will be appreciated.
above is my list of things i think are important to get right. correct me if im wrong please.
what are some opinions about this list.
am i missing something?
my goal is to rebuild this A1 to be reliable,maybe make a tad bit more power over stock,and take a beating every once and still get my a$$ to work.
im not looking to build an N/A monster or boost it. all that money will go into suspension.
also. i've never had to take in a head or block to the machine shop before, so what are the reccomended things i should have them do in order to achieve my goal?
and should some of these parts be put on hold until everything is back from the machine shop just incase theres some issue or whatever with specs and clearances?
and what would one expect to pay for recommended services to the head and block? i will be assembling the engine myself,so that cost wont need to be included.
Any and all info/advice will be appreciative!
and i've searched so if i have missed where these questions are answered please post a link and i will read up.
I see a few things with your parts list, 1, for non vtec engines cams are gonna make about the most power per dollar and also intake manifold choice will be a big power adder too. Just raising compression without changing cams won't gain a whole lot and you'll have a much more knock sensitive motor. I would do some crower 403's in it with super tech single springs if you can find them. Also look into the b16 intake manifold fitted on a pr4/ p75 head, it's a great manifold for that motor and compliments it's powerband well. You can get the arp head studs considerably cheaper on eBay, I don't see a need for the eagle rods or cosmetic hg, i would run oem if you wanna spend that kind of money on a hg or I've also ran the $10.99 evergreen headgaskets without problems off eBay. The eagle rods are really over kill and just extra weight if your staying na, just do arp rod bolts. Also header choice will make a big difference in the power output, I've found ls motors like the hytech rep headers pretty well.
I see a few things with your parts list, 1, for non vtec engines cams are gonna make about the most power per dollar and also intake manifold choice will be a big power adder too. Just raising compression without changing cams won't gain a whole lot and you'll have a much more knock sensitive motor. I would do some crower 403's in it with super tech single springs if you can find them. Also look into the b16 intake manifold fitted on a pr4/ p75 head, it's a great manifold for that motor and compliments it's powerband well. You can get the arp head studs considerably cheaper on eBay, I don't see a need for the eagle rods or cosmetic hg, i would run oem if you wanna spend that kind of money on a hg or I've also ran the $10.99 evergreen headgaskets without problems off eBay. The eagle rods are really over kill and just extra weight if your staying na, just do arp rod bolts. Also header choice will make a big difference in the power output, I've found ls motors like the hytech rep headers pretty well.
Thanks for the advice man, I'll definitely take note of it!
OP, you have a thread posted twice in two different sub forums and you are getting different information in each... you may find this confusing. I suggest you see if a mod will merge them to get all of the information in one place.
I see a few things with your parts list, 1, for non vtec engines cams are gonna make about the most power per dollar and also intake manifold choice will be a big power adder too. Just raising compression without changing cams won't gain a whole lot and you'll have a much more knock sensitive motor. I would do some crower 403's in it with super tech single springs if you can find them. Also look into the b16 intake manifold fitted on a pr4/ p75 head, it's a great manifold for that motor and compliments it's powerband well. You can get the arp head studs considerably cheaper on eBay, I don't see a need for the eagle rods or cosmetic hg, i would run oem if you wanna spend that kind of money on a hg or I've also ran the $10.99 evergreen headgaskets without problems off eBay. The eagle rods are really over kill and just extra weight if your staying na, just do arp rod bolts. Also header choice will make a big difference in the power output, I've found ls motors like the hytech rep headers pretty well.
Some good advice here, save for one item (in my opinion). The Supertech springs have way more seat pressure (and rate) then you will need for the 403s. Rocket sells a set of single springs that are ~45lbs on the seat. For an NA engine, especially one with a cylinder heard that is known for sinking exhaust seats, this is a better solution. The also work with stock retainers. I don't know if the Supertech ones require Ti or not. but I would stay away from non-steel retainers for a street car engine.
OP, don't commit (i.e., don't purchase anything) to standard bore pistons or standard size bearings until the bottom end is apart and measured. ALWAYS buy those parts after you know what you have. It's very likely will find it a better idea to oversize, and then you won't be stuck trying to unload your standard size parts.
Advice on my B18A1 rebuild please
Re: Advice on my B18A1 rebuild please
