I'm going to change my head gasket on my mini me d15b7 blcok with z6 head. I'm going to use 3 layer oem y8 gasket. I'm wondering if I need to buy arp "torque liquid" for my head studs nuts. I'm new to this and want to learn how to fix my car right. . Also drop any additional information I need to know👍 thanks for the help👌🏻

 

Do you have ARP head studs in it now or OEM head bolts?

 

Molybdenum disulfide - The service manual says to use motor oil, so obviously that is acceptable. But yeah, it is just a better lubricant. It ensures that more of the applied torque goes into stretching the screw than into friction and binding in the threads. It can be used on other fasteners, not just head bolts.

 

Yes I have arp studs now

 

Okay so I just lube em up and torque to oem spec?

 

Oh, ARP studs. Okay. Go to the ARP website and download the instructions for those studs. They are probably the studs for the Z6. The ARP stud torque is higher than the OEM bolt torque.

 

And to do their spec, you are supposed to use ARP lube.

The problem with this advise is that the torque provided by Honda for OEM parts is based on the lubricant advised by Honda (in this case motor oil). Using OEM torque with superior lubricant its quite possible to over stretch the fastener. The torque specified is what was found to give the proper stretch of the fastener with the lubricant specified.

 

You are not placing your focus on the most important items. The most important things to do when replacing a head gasket:

1) The head and block mating surfaces must be flat. Take the head to a machine shop to mill it flat.

2) Check the flatness of the block with a precision straight edge (see service manual). If it is not also flat, you are wasting your time.

3) Thoroughly clean the threads inside the block with a tap and die set. Look for a free rental. Blow all debris out of the bolt holes with compressed air. This, some motor oil, and a good torque wrench will ensure that you properly get the bolts torqued to spec. Follow the service manual instructions,

4) You don't need expensive head bolts and gasket - stock honda bolts and gasket are perfectly fine. It's a D-series.

 

Thanks for the info, I hope I don't need to machine it cuz I don't have much bucks lol

 

You're rolling the dice here if you don't have both head and block checked. I did the same thing 15 years ago when I was on a shoestring budget, so I understand, but I also did head gasket replacements on these cars back then without inspecting / machining if necessary and wasted a lot of money and time when my head gasket would pop again in a few weeks to a few months. You should be able to get a cylinder head pressure tested and resurfaced for under $100. Block decking should also be under $100, if necessary. If you want to inspect your block before you tear it down, you can get a nice precision straight edge for under $100, and a feeler gauge set is just a couple of bucks. There are cheaper straight edges available if the nice ones are too steep, but you lose some precision.

 

It really depends on the WHY you need to replace your headgasket.

To be honest, I have replaced headgaskets before without decking the head or block.

Reasons:
- Freeing up a locked up bottom end (toyota)
- Blown Headgasket (subaru)
- Rebuilding bottom end (honda)
- Changing out 1 set of piston rings (honda)
- Changing out a valve (honda)
- Helicoil-like thread for spark plug (toyota)
- Stroking bottom end (acura)

 

Risky, if you did not check for flatness with a precision straight edge. Heads and blocks can become warped for reasons other than overheating.

Failures after a head gasket replacement are quite common, but can be avoided by paying attention to detail.

 

sayin....

 

no doubt.

 

You know whats also risky? Changing out a headgasket. One wrong thing and you can spend a lot of money chasing down something that you did wrong. You should do it right and send it to a shop instead.