so I have an issue i recently rebuilt an lsvtec with a b20z2 bottom end with a b16a2 cylinder head I'm running boost aswell I used the proper hybrid head gasket and ran the proper blox sandwich plate I'm running about 6 to 10 psi somewhere around there today sent a rod threw the block
before I took it around town I heard a little squeak coming from the harmonic balancer I didn't use a vtec oil pump and it was piston number 4 that got sent threw the Block my oil pressure was about at 80 psi and when i drove it the oil gauge was maxed at a 100 psi my oil light kept flickering and soon was constantly on I kept checking the oil and it was all good so I really wanna know what ended up happening so I know for next time

 

How high were you revving it to?

Why didn't you get a vtec oil pump?

Where did you install the oil pressure switch for your gauge?

 

I was regularly driving my car I was doing 90km I had my boost controller off so it only ran at most 5 psi I wasn't pushing it at all i heard the oil pumps between vtec and ls were the same other then one washer i have my oil pressure gauge and oil feed for my turbo coming off of the oil pressure switch i just ran a t fitting i wont know if it had an oil blockage until I open it up

 

revs were between 3 and 5 thousand

 

The CRV engine uses the VTEC pump... so oil volume wasn't your problem. It is much more likely that you had a rod bolt failure. You didn't mention replacing the stock rods and pistons in the B20 block, so I am going to assume that it was all stock. Revving stock rods and rod bolts above 7K rpm will take it's toll on them... and once a bit of metal fatigue exists, it is only a matter of time before you have a fastener failure. This is why you could be running the engine passively between 3 and 5K rpm and still pitch a rod through the block... the damage was done the LAST time you ran her up to 8K... she just hung on a bit longer before surrendering.

 

Love your front end by the way.

 

yea I rebuilt the motor with new pistons and rods I just kept the stock rod bolts and yea it's the first time I took the car out since the rebuild so it never hit 8000 rpm so I dont understand why my oil gauge was at max psi and the car was reading on the dash that it was low on oil

 

I find it hard to believe that anybody who does this kinda thing revs up to 3 and 5k rpm...

 

any kind of tune? what kind of turbo? psi is a relevant term, no tune or some random base can make your engine go boom.

 

Hmmmm... your oil light is flickering, and ultimately ends up staying on, and your gauge is reading somewhere between 80 and 100psi. I would say one of the two is LYING !!! What was your oil pressure at idle ??? How do you have the oil pressure gauge sending unit connected to the engine ??? What about your oil pressure light switch ???

 

 

yea that's what I got I got 2 T'S and then I got the pressure switch

 

My oil pressure gauge source is the oil pump primary passage that meets the block before the oil filter. I have historically stayed away from the "T" solution at the factory oil pressure switch location because of the odd thread size found there... 1/8" BSP (British Standard Pipe) instead of 1/8" NPT (National Pipe Thread). The additional weight of the "T", sending units and the oil pressure switch place undue stress on the threaded hole in the block... and you are just asking for a failure in the future.

 

I have 1/8 npt coming off of the blox sandwich plate I could just use that instead