When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1999 CR-V EX AWD (RD1)
115,000 Miles
3rd Owner
NICB = Clean
No title Brands
All Original
B20Z2 Block
P72-2 Head
PHK Intake manifold
Manual Trans
::Aftermarket or Replaced Stuff::
1 Hard brake line
Elongated shifter + ****
Sony single din head unit
LED headlights
Honda Symbol valve stem caps
NGK plugs
Silicone spark plug wires (Made in USA?)
Cap + rotor
::Broken Stuff::
Drivers door doesn't open from inside ( Now Fixed )
AC compressor clutch jingles when its not engaged
Front and rear wipers have a ton of play
Shift cables are destroyed
Tires are dry-rotted
Rear wheel well rust but the under-body is pretty clean
Front passenger side power locks don't work correctly
OEM Aluminum rims peeling
Exhaust leak
Only running on 2 cylinders!!!
::The Story::
Been looking at CR-Vs of this vintage (99-01) for awhile. Happened to find this one on Craigslist and work out a fair price under 1K. According to the previous owner it has some burnt valves and needs a head, I wont know for sure until i get in there. What i do know is it runs and drives but its a totally gutless turd in its current state. On the bright side all the VIN stickers seem to match and the rest of car seems relatively stock. Interior is 8/10 imho, trans shifts smooth and the suspension / AWD system seem to be in great shape. Felt like it may need a clutch when i pulled it off the trailer, but cant tell with how little power it has. To get it home I disconnected the drive shaft, borrowed a truck and towed it home on a U-haul dolly for 50$ plus gas. Now comes the fun part.
::The Plan Internals::
To build a reliable dedicated winter vehicle to be the yang to my 93 Del Sol Si as a summer car. Not worried about Hp numbers here just torque and traction!
As far as the motor goes i wont be able to make a solid plan until i figure out whats wrong with it. May go anywhere from a simple valve job to a swapping in another P75 or even a P8R head if i could find one cheap. If the bottom ends toast im thinking maybe high compression B20B swap. This will be my first time going this deep into any motor so it shall be a learning experience.
::The Plan EX-ternal::
The factory paint is actually really pretty nice aside from the faded plastic (door-handles, plate frame, ex.). So nice in fact i am going to feel kind of guilty sanding it off. The thing is I really hate the color I am thinking grey bed-liner or tractor paint after i attempt to weld up the holes in the rear quarters.
A set of dedicated studded Winter tires, most likely clean up the OEM EX rims and use those. I actually quite like them, but they are sadly starting to corrode so i will have no choice but to paint them.
Aesthetically i would love a JDM CR-V spoiler, and a hard-case for the spare (PM me if you have the hard case at a fair price). Maybe a brush guard and a slight drop would look nice, need to check some salvage yards. Tint the back 7 windows to maybe 20% (perfectly legal here) and add a vinyl strip to the ASE line on the windshield. Would like to change out the grille or make a custom one but thats still up for debate. Accord fog-lights in the front bumper is also a priority.
Now seems to be a great time to buy a first gen as the prices are affordable, but they are definitely getting harder to find a nice example. I drove quite far to see quite a few other 99-01 AWD MT before I purchased this one and ended up walking away from all of them. All either too expensive, already modded, beat into the ground, ex. I know im taking a risk on this one as it doesn't actually run right, and i really want to keep the low mileage B20Z2 block. Though that just gives me more reason to learn, and something to learn on!
Ive had the vehicle home for a few days and despite the rain and troubleshooting on the Sol I got a few things done with the CR-V. Worth it to mention my garage = a parking lot
*Broke off a welded nut inside the frame-rail while removing the central portion of the driveshaft, probably going to have to drill a hole in the floor now :3
*Vacuumed out the air-filter and cleaned out the air-box
*Ballistoled all the hinges, cleaned and lubed the hatch struts, also all the latches. It had been sitting for awhile and was kind of seized up
*303 Plastic Protectant on all the bare exterior plastics. Brought them back a bit, will try again before i decide if they need paint
*Reinstalled the LED bulbs that came in the car, the fans couldn't breath how they were installed making them loud af. I have led headlights in my Sol as-well and quite like them, but they just have heat syncs no fans so they are silent and i prefer.
*Removed all the previous owners stickers, decals, windshield banner, air freshener, ex. Goo-goned the residue.
*Siphoned out the clutch master, cleaned the reservoir and refilled with Valvoline Dot 3/4 full synthetic fluid
*Cycled the battery on a trickle charger between 2A and 8A for a day, will do it again then check the voltage.
*Put Lucas fuel treat in with the gas. It came with a half tank in it and it doesn't smell like bad gas, but i also know how long it was sitting so im skeptical. Debating on draining the tank and just using it for the lawnmower or something.
*Half-*** washed it, mostly focused the roof as it was covered in tree gunk. Seems as i got to it a bit late as its put some nasty pits into the paint up there, but def needed to happen.
*Took apart the drivers door panel and found the broken handle/ missing clip that caused the door to not open. Repaired the handle with JB weld, and added a new rod clip i had laying around. Door now opens from the inside making troubleshooting other issues sooooo much easier.
*Traced the reason the passenger door power lock doesn't work to the drivers door-jamb. If i open the door to a certain angle the lock will function. Should be an easy enough fix.
*Checked the PCV valve and it was solid, brake-cleaned it and now it kinda works at least for long enough to troubleshoot.
*Pulled the codes, the CEL is on constant but the only code stored is a P0171 (Bank 1 system too lean). Really not much to go on.
A technical service bulletin regarding exhaust valves sinking into the cylinder head might be pertinent. Was aware of the issue but not the bulletin
Originally Posted by TSB#03-038
03-038
November 5, 2004
Applies To:
1999-01 CR-V-ALL
Rough Idle, Hard to Start, Poor Engine Performance, or MIL Comes On With DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, or P0172
(Supersedes 03-038, dated December 19, 2003)
Updated information is shown with asterisks and black bars.
SYMPTOM
The engine idles roughly, is hard to start, performs poorly, or has the MIL on with DTC P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304 (cylinder misfire), or P0172 (fuel system too rich).
PROBABLE CAUSE
One or more exhaust valves have receded into the cylinder head.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Inspect the valve clearance and, if necessary, replace the cylinder head.
PARTS INFORMATION
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
In warranty: The normal warranty applies.
Failed Part: P/N 12100-P75-010
H/C 5604970
Defect Code: 00503
Symptom Code: 03203
Skill Level: Repair Technician
Out of warranty:
Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
INSPECTION PROCEDURE
1. Remove the cylinder head cover, and check the valve clearance on all exhaust valves.
^ If any of the valve clearances are below 0.09 mm, go to step 2.
^ If any of the valve clearances are between 0.09 and 0.16 mm, adjust the valves to specification (0.16 to 0.20 mm). Return the vehicle to the customer.
^ If the clearances are within specification, disregard this bulletin and look for other possible causes (ignition, fuel injection, etc.).
2. Ask the customer if the valves were adjusted shortly before the problem occurred.
^ If the valves were recently adjusted, readjust the valves to specification.
^ If the valves were not adjusted, proceed to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
*Replace the cylinder head:
^ See page 6-16 of the 1997-01 CR-V Service Manual.
^ In ISIS, enter the keyword CYL HEAD, and select Cylinder Head Removal and Cylinder Head Installation from the list.*
NOTE: The exhaust valves and seats may be damaged (burnt or cracked) to further indicate that the cylinder head has a problem.
:: To Do ::
Drain old gas
Compression test - wet and dry
Check and regap plugs if necessary
Valve adjustment - need to order jam nut valve adjustment tool
Trickle charge battery
Sand, clean, and di-electric grease all the grounds
:: Questions I have if anyone wants to chime in ::
Airbox
Been looking at the 01 Integra OEM airbox's as people said they flow best, but upon comparing the 2. I dont see why the 99-01 CRV Air-box and tube wouldn't be superior if it was just modified to pull air from the bumper. Only real difference between the 01 teg and the 99-01 crv air-box beside obviously the intake tube. Is the filter design and the resonator on the airbox.
Heads
Ive done some reading and found that a P8R head will lower my compression a tad but flows much better. There doesn't seem to be a clear consensus on if the compression loss is worth it if you don't plan on going with higher comp pistons or decking the head to compensate. I think it would be best reusing the P75-2 cams in the p8r head for the extra lift.
The p8r also seems to be immune to the valve sink that the p75 experiences
Intake manifold
I am NOT doing a Frankenstein looking b16 manifold. So i believe that leaves me with the giraffe (p3f) or the (phk i think it is) that is already on it. Consensus so far seems to be keep the PHK with its resonator box intact, otherwise go b16 manifold.
Tires and wheels
Im thinking keep the OEM rims as i actually quite like them, just spray / powder coat them black. Then wrap them in some Winter compound P215 75 15 tires. Pretty sure they should clear without any spacers, but not sure if they would still clear after a drop. Ile have to take some measurements at full lock.
Got a rain free day! Fresh fluids all around, CRV and the Sol
Did a full battery service on both vehicles aswell, cleaned, coated, added distilled water, and di-electric on the connections. Been trickle charging the CRV battery for a few days now and now that ive topped off the electrolyte. Ile go for a few more days then voltage test, load test and hope for the best. Then compression test!
Saving the CRVs coolant flush/change for post head-work. Changed its oil though with some cheap synthetic blend and used a cheapo filter that came with the car. The old oil was just full of gasoline. Didn't put in good stuff as I don't know how attached i am to the bottom end yet but if it is good the nasty that came out of it wasn't doing it any favors. Will put in Mobil 1 full synthetic high mileage once its running.
Not pictured Mobil 1 Extended life M1-104 filter, Lucas oil upper cylinder lube, whatever cheapo filter was in the CRV, another open bottle of MTF.
Got the valve lash adjusted, think i found the crank pulley of the timing belt to be off a tooth. The head is nasty inside looks like infrequent oil changes combined with a fuqd PCV system.
Nave43's 99 CR-V EX Build Thread
Re: Nave43's 99 CR-V EX Build Thread
