What tools required to unbolt header from block and from exhaust piping?
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What tools required to unbolt header from block and from exhaust piping?
I just moved and have no access to my tools yet. My wife's car failed inspection for cracked exhaust manifold. I can buy a new one with Cat attached for pretty cheap, what size are the bolts holding the header to block, and cat to downpipe/exhaust, and what about O2 sensor? Anything I'm missing?
Thanks
Thanks
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Re: What tools required to unbolt header from block and from exhaust piping?
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From: King George VA
Re: What tools required to unbolt header from block and from exhaust piping?
Think like a Power Plant Operator... Pipe wrenches. Big ones. And don't forget the 20lb sledgehammer.
Oh Oh! And the HyTorc to button everything back up.
Oh Oh! And the HyTorc to button everything back up.
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Re: What tools required to unbolt header from block and from exhaust piping?
The nuts on the bottom flange will be really rusted and you will need a variety of tools and swear words to deal with them. On the attachment to the head you'll need a 12 mm socket and ALSO likely a 12mm open end wrench so you can do the jammed nuts trick to put studs back into the head.
I would not try to reuse O2 sensors; put in new ones.
But if you're an experienced mechanic just lacking tools you would know all this already.
I would not try to reuse O2 sensors; put in new ones.
But if you're an experienced mechanic just lacking tools you would know all this already.
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From: Mustard Belt
Re: What tools required to unbolt header from block and from exhaust piping?
it helps to read the rules and follow them. this will help cut down on the sarcastic/unhelpful replies you're seeing.
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My best guess is you- or your wife has a '96-'00 LX or DX Civic with the D16Y7 engine. the manifolds are prone to cracking on this model.
the sizes involved are 12mm, 14mm and 22mm (specialty).
it's best to have a fresh can of liquid wrench or similar. you'll want to give everything a good soak and let it sit to seep in for at least half an hour.
some of these bolts can be tough to get loose even with the penetrating oil. a long handled ratchet (3/8" drive) and a 6" or 8" extension are my go-to. the extension is what you'll want for the lower pipe to manifold connection. flashlight helps here too.
all fasteners are nuts on studs if memory serves. deep sockets for the 12 and 14. the 22mm is a specialty size for the O2 sensor. this is usually a "crow-foot" style split socket deal. I've tried every other way I could think of to get the O2 out on this model and this is the only tool that fits in there and does the job.
good luck and don't forget the
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For all technical questions, the following information MUST be included in the first post: vehicle (year, make, model) and engine (if not stock, year, make, model, OBD type). Other pertinent information includes check engine light (CEL) codes as well as engine modifications, such as a turbo kit tuned at 18 psi or a specific throttle body, large injectors, big cams, etc. This information is absolutely essential because, in many instances, members wishing to help in a thread waste their time by posting detailed replies, only to find out the next day that the topic starter left out CRITICAL information. Please respect members wishing to help by taking the time to list or mention crucial information about your car.
I just moved and have no access to my tools yet. My wife's car failed inspection for cracked exhaust manifold. I can buy a new one with Cat attached for pretty cheap, what size are the bolts holding the header to block, and cat to downpipe/exhaust, and what about O2 sensor? Anything I'm missing?
Thanks
Thanks
the sizes involved are 12mm, 14mm and 22mm (specialty).
it's best to have a fresh can of liquid wrench or similar. you'll want to give everything a good soak and let it sit to seep in for at least half an hour.
some of these bolts can be tough to get loose even with the penetrating oil. a long handled ratchet (3/8" drive) and a 6" or 8" extension are my go-to. the extension is what you'll want for the lower pipe to manifold connection. flashlight helps here too.
all fasteners are nuts on studs if memory serves. deep sockets for the 12 and 14. the 22mm is a specialty size for the O2 sensor. this is usually a "crow-foot" style split socket deal. I've tried every other way I could think of to get the O2 out on this model and this is the only tool that fits in there and does the job.
good luck and don't forget the
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