The theme: Build slow, over time, and keep the car driveable as much as possible, while on a general budget that rivals built K-series NA swaps ($5K). Sacrifice nothing (AC/PS retained, subs in the trunk, heated leather seats... a nice street car.) Buy used name brand parts when possible, overbuild it and tune conservatively for worry free driving.

Goals: 300-ish hp, 200-ish tq, but honestly anything over 270/150 will make me happy. I just want to be able to run with my buddy's RSX-S (bolt ons)

I really kicked rocks on making this post, not sure what kind of praise/criticism it'd receive, but I figured maybe someone would want to follow in my footsteps so I should document it. I've been collecting parts for almost a year now (As of August 2018). I have an EP3 as well, but started this before snatching the hatch, so single cam race car it is. That being said, I have no rush and can handle downtime, but I'd like to get as much done as quickly as possible with as little downtime as I can.

inb4 "why not K swap it! SO much easier!"
1- I want the experience
2- turbos are fun
3- I can go back to NA quickly and easily if I stick with D17.
4- K swaps are in large expensive chunks, and whatever I did I was going to build it anyways. Less upfront cost mostly. ($1k for used K20A engine/trans, $800 for kpro, $500 for conversion mounts, $100 for subframe, $400 for wiring... exhaust... shifter cables... radiator... Air conditioning... and then the internals!)

So far I have picked up:
Full D17A2 and transmission with accessories, 130k miles (stock): $200
K1 technologies 4340 H-beam rods: $350
Supertech low comp pistons 8.8:1 (0.5mm overbore): $430
Supertech block guard: $50
OEM Oil Pump (shimmed and ported): $75
Stage 2 head (PnP head, BC stage 2 cam, Ferrea valves/springs/retainers, 20k miles): $400
D16Y8 intake manifold: trade, $20? value
K20A3 throttle body: Free from previous part out. RIP Shitbox Mk.1
Turbo bundle (Garret turbo, ram horn header, tial wastegate w/dump tube, AEM fuel rail (new!) 60k miles): $1000
Kpro and modified Kpro D17 gear: $700
Dezod intercooler and all piping: $500

What I still need:
Fuel system: returnless, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, injectors, lines
Engine machine work: Nobody around me likes Hondas. I am having a hard time finding a shop that is willing to clean, bore, and deck my block/head, nobody will notch my block for H beams so I guess I'll do that myself.
Internals: Piston rings, ARP heasdstuds, clutch/flywheel, gaskets/seals, bearings
Forced induction: All guages, oil feed line, BOV
Transmission: Axles, syncros(?)

This will be a slow build. Subscribe at your own risk.

 

No offense, but those are fairly lofty goals for a D17 while staying under the $5k mark. And, I have no idea why someone would invest $1k into a K20A transmission. The gearing isn't THAT great, and the LSD is overpriced compared to aftermarket alternatives. Picking up a used K20A2 or A3 transmission would be in the ballpark of $150 - $300.

But, with that said, best of luck with the endeavor.

 

Please show me where you can get a 6 speed K20A2 trans for $300!... My EP3 needs that 6th for highway cruising! Everywhere I looks for typeS transmissions are asking $600-$800...

 

I picked mine up off of Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market years ago. Paid $300, and was fortunate enough that the salvage yard was close and I just drove an hour to pick it up.

Something worth noting, the only thing you'd need to change in your transmission to get the same top gear ratio as a Type-S RSX transmission, is the final drive. The 6th gear ratio is the exact same as your EP3's 5th gear. If you really want to get good fuel economy, source a Final Drive gear combination from an Indian CR-V. It's roughly a 4.0:1 FD, and would really bump your fuel economy. Sure, it'd definitely reduce your off-the-line performance, but not so much as to make the car a complete dog.

 

I was also looking at the TSX 6th gear. Didn't know about the indian CRV, thanks for that!