Reuse ARP studs? Or buy new bolts for HG re-do
Just got my b16a swap in my 99 hatch running when I diagnosed the head gasket leaking!
Took the head off and noticed a Felpro gasket and APR studs. This has been done before obviously. I don’t think the hg was leaking that bad, as the car wasn’t overheating and oil and coolant weren’t mixing. The car ran great, also. It just had ‘disappearing’ coolant and then failed the head gasket test. Had the head resurfaced and the block is (barely) in specs.
My question:
Should I reuse these studs? I’m already sketched out by the failed head gasket job.
Arent arp studs for high performance applications? I don’t really need them for my stock b16a, but what else do I need to keep in mind using them? Are the torque specs changed when I use these studs as opposed to oem bolts?
im using an oem head gasket.
should I be worried that the block is at .002”? I know it’s technically in specs but that feeler really GLIDES on in there. .003” doesn’t fit though.
thanks!!!
Took the head off and noticed a Felpro gasket and APR studs. This has been done before obviously. I don’t think the hg was leaking that bad, as the car wasn’t overheating and oil and coolant weren’t mixing. The car ran great, also. It just had ‘disappearing’ coolant and then failed the head gasket test. Had the head resurfaced and the block is (barely) in specs.
My question:
Should I reuse these studs? I’m already sketched out by the failed head gasket job.
Arent arp studs for high performance applications? I don’t really need them for my stock b16a, but what else do I need to keep in mind using them? Are the torque specs changed when I use these studs as opposed to oem bolts?
im using an oem head gasket.
should I be worried that the block is at .002”? I know it’s technically in specs but that feeler really GLIDES on in there. .003” doesn’t fit though.
thanks!!!
I dont think I would replace the studs but technically I'm sure ARP would say to do so. .002 is marginal on the head but if you run a good quality block sealant in th coolant from the get goyou may be good to go.
Thanks!
So here’s the answer I can’t really find from searching...
at least: I can’t find a definitive answer, just a lot of argument-
Since I already have the studs from the prior owner, I don’t have the arp assembly lube. I was just going to use oil. What should I torque these to? ARP says 80 with the lube. Should I go higher or lower without it?
So here’s the answer I can’t really find from searching...
at least: I can’t find a definitive answer, just a lot of argument-
Since I already have the studs from the prior owner, I don’t have the arp assembly lube. I was just going to use oil. What should I torque these to? ARP says 80 with the lube. Should I go higher or lower without it?
One more thing that’s bothering me:
the instructions on son the copper spray I used we’re vague at best.
I basically just sprayed it on and threw the gasket on. Now I’m reading stuff online saying you’re supposed to let it sit for hours? Overnight!?
Do I have a chance of this working out ok? Or should I just pull it now and re do it. I don’t want to waste that new oem gasket...... any insight appreciated.
the instructions on son the copper spray I used we’re vague at best.
I basically just sprayed it on and threw the gasket on. Now I’m reading stuff online saying you’re supposed to let it sit for hours? Overnight!?
Do I have a chance of this working out ok? Or should I just pull it now and re do it. I don’t want to waste that new oem gasket...... any insight appreciated.
You should let it dry to the touch, overnight might be extreme. But as long as it dry to the touch it'll be fine
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Yeah, I know now it should dry...
but it it was definitely a little wet still when I put the head on.
am I guaranteed failure or should I just try it?
but it it was definitely a little wet still when I put the head on.
am I guaranteed failure or should I just try it?
if you sprayed it and let the gasket dry for a bit that should be enough. I had to replace a headgasket on a b20 after the engine swap, lower right corner was leaking oil. I bought new oem head gasket, reused bolts(shame on me BUT IT HELD UP FOR THE TIME I OWNED IT), copper spray on both sides and letting it dry on one side before spraying the other. I just hooked everything up the same day I removed the head. Yeah I also checked for warpage and it was within spec of the FSM. Honda engineers pretty smart as they left specific areas on the head to let you know if the head can still be used and how much to shave off of the head before its no good.
Unfortunately, I ignorantly put the head on RIGHT AWAY while the copper spray was still very fresh and very wet. After some thought, I figured I’d rather find out now rather than after the cams and manifolds and fluids, etc were added.
I pulled the head off, and sure enough that copper spray was still runny and snotty and I would have for sure had a leak....
I’m posting this in hopes of warning other noobs.. let it sit for at least a few minutes!!!! Do the research- trying to hurry always ends up taking more time. Unfortunately the directions on the bottle are fairly vague.
So my next question: that oem head gasket-
it was torqued down but never ran. Can I reuse it? It was pricey 🤔 I was able to get it nice and clean with brake cleaner.
I pulled the head off, and sure enough that copper spray was still runny and snotty and I would have for sure had a leak....
I’m posting this in hopes of warning other noobs.. let it sit for at least a few minutes!!!! Do the research- trying to hurry always ends up taking more time. Unfortunately the directions on the bottle are fairly vague.
So my next question: that oem head gasket-
it was torqued down but never ran. Can I reuse it? It was pricey 🤔 I was able to get it nice and clean with brake cleaner.
Last edited by 1999AZhatch; Jul 24, 2018 at 01:47 PM. Reason: Typo
Ok 👍
head is back on.
One more thing:
usually youre supposed to re-check torque on head bolts/studs after a bit of run time. How critical is this on the b-series? Cause as you all likely know~~~ the cams gotta come out to get to those studs. It’s a bit of a pain but I’ll do it if it’s absolutley necessary.
what do y’all think?
head is back on.
One more thing:
usually youre supposed to re-check torque on head bolts/studs after a bit of run time. How critical is this on the b-series? Cause as you all likely know~~~ the cams gotta come out to get to those studs. It’s a bit of a pain but I’ll do it if it’s absolutley necessary.
what do y’all think?
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