need some help. arp head studs cometic gasket
09-21-2009, 07:41 AM
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need some help. arp head studs cometic gasket
this is the first time ever i am changing head studs on my motor. i have a few questions. is there a write up for this on how to do it on a b20 or ls?
1. how many lbs of torque should i put when i put the head back on
2. what sequence do i tighten the studs.
3. i have 10 bolts. what are the 2 longer ones for? or will i find out when i take the head off.
any useful information that i am going to need please let me know. i am doing this on my dd and i cant afford to mess this us.
i am using arp headstuds and bolts btw and a cometic head gasket. i am using the stock b20 head. no vtec.
1. how many lbs of torque should i put when i put the head back on
2. what sequence do i tighten the studs.
3. i have 10 bolts. what are the 2 longer ones for? or will i find out when i take the head off.
any useful information that i am going to need please let me know. i am doing this on my dd and i cant afford to mess this us.
i am using arp headstuds and bolts btw and a cometic head gasket. i am using the stock b20 head. no vtec.
09-21-2009, 09:02 AM
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Re: need some help. arp head studs cometic gasket
This is a long answer, but I don't want you to screw up either.
1. Depends on the lubrication you use for assembly. According to ARP, for 11mm studs:
You should torque the studs into the block only hand tight with an allen wrench. Then install the gasket and head and lubricate the washers and the underside and threads of the nuts. If you are using the ARP Moly lube that comes with a stud kit, you torque them all to 25 ft.lb in the order shown below. Then you torque them again, but go up to 50 ft.lb in the same order. Third you torque them to 65 ft.lb in the same order. Finally, you loosen them all one turn and re-torque to 65 ft.lb in the same order. If you don't have the moly lube, you can use regular 30W motor oil, but the torque numbers would be 25,65 and 80 ft.lb.
2. see attached image from AutoZone.com repair guide for the CRV (B20)
3. I believe the 2 center bolts are the long ones, but you will find out when you remove the head. (Just guessing from the picture of a b20 head and bolts on hondaautomotiveparts.com)
As far as tips, don't forget to drain the coolant from the engine first, resurface the head and block if you can, cross your fingers really hard if you can't, bleed the air out of the cooling system when you are done, change your oil when your done (in case some coolant got in there anyway). That's all I can think of. Good luck.
-Tony
1. Depends on the lubrication you use for assembly. According to ARP, for 11mm studs:
You should torque the studs into the block only hand tight with an allen wrench. Then install the gasket and head and lubricate the washers and the underside and threads of the nuts. If you are using the ARP Moly lube that comes with a stud kit, you torque them all to 25 ft.lb in the order shown below. Then you torque them again, but go up to 50 ft.lb in the same order. Third you torque them to 65 ft.lb in the same order. Finally, you loosen them all one turn and re-torque to 65 ft.lb in the same order. If you don't have the moly lube, you can use regular 30W motor oil, but the torque numbers would be 25,65 and 80 ft.lb.
2. see attached image from AutoZone.com repair guide for the CRV (B20)
3. I believe the 2 center bolts are the long ones, but you will find out when you remove the head. (Just guessing from the picture of a b20 head and bolts on hondaautomotiveparts.com)
As far as tips, don't forget to drain the coolant from the engine first, resurface the head and block if you can, cross your fingers really hard if you can't, bleed the air out of the cooling system when you are done, change your oil when your done (in case some coolant got in there anyway). That's all I can think of. Good luck.
-Tony
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