Civic 93 keeps overheating slowly (bleeding air fixes temporarily)
My civic 93 starts to overheat slowly each week after I bleed the air out. I already changed the water pump, radiator, and thermostat. Turning on the heater to max helps the car not overheat. I am using prestone antifreeze, so I dont see what could be my issue. I checked if it needed more water and it only needed a little bit. Anybody know why this is happening?
headgasket. issue sounds like.
very easy cheap fix.
remove manifolds.
remove valve cover
drain coolant
remove head
swap out gasket.
it should be good with a new gasket unles you let it get real hot than head could be warped and need shaved.
very easy cheap fix.
remove manifolds.
remove valve cover
drain coolant
remove head
swap out gasket.
it should be good with a new gasket unles you let it get real hot than head could be warped and need shaved.
Somebody told me it could be a dirty condenser or ac is going bad forcing engine to work more. Well, i kind of believe it has something to do with that because I had a faulty ac relay clutch that drained my battery by activating the clutch at random times, bought a new relay and doesnt affect battery no more. I dont believe is the head gasket because it overheats really slow, barely moves the problem is minor. I forgot to mention, I did something I wasnt supposed to and that was mixing orange and green antifreeze(at least thats what I think is the cause). The reason I put green antifreeze is because a hose popped off and didnt know it was bad to mix it. Well, anyways I already flushed the radiator and the heater core like 6 times, and it does help but just for a while.
Last edited by alextech; Jul 5, 2018 at 03:29 PM.
On these cars the condenser is not in front of the radiator, it is beside it with its own airflow.
Sounds like a slow leak in the head gasket. Purge all the air out then put the radiator cap on and stop the engine and let it get completely cold. Then take the cap off, start the engine (cold) and rev it. If bubbles steadily come out of the radiator it is almost certainly a bad head gasket.
The car was built when the only kind of antifreeze was regular silicated green, so you can and should use that.
Sounds like a slow leak in the head gasket. Purge all the air out then put the radiator cap on and stop the engine and let it get completely cold. Then take the cap off, start the engine (cold) and rev it. If bubbles steadily come out of the radiator it is almost certainly a bad head gasket.
The car was built when the only kind of antifreeze was regular silicated green, so you can and should use that.
On these cars the condenser is not in front of the radiator, it is beside it with its own airflow.
Sounds like a slow leak in the head gasket. Purge all the air out then put the radiator cap on and stop the engine and let it get completely cold. Then take the cap off, start the engine (cold) and rev it. If bubbles steadily come out of the radiator it is almost certainly a bad head gasket.
The car was built when the only kind of antifreeze was regular silicated green, so you can and should use that.
Sounds like a slow leak in the head gasket. Purge all the air out then put the radiator cap on and stop the engine and let it get completely cold. Then take the cap off, start the engine (cold) and rev it. If bubbles steadily come out of the radiator it is almost certainly a bad head gasket.
The car was built when the only kind of antifreeze was regular silicated green, so you can and should use that.
**Update**
Just so you know the problem has not been fixed yet! I already changed the head gasket and apparently this wasnt really necessary. The head gasket was good, however there was a problem we found, the coolant pipe that goes from thermostat to water pump was leaking because the metal was bad. I replaced it with a good one and new oem o rings. After putting the head back, another problem happened, the water pump went bad and this water pump was new. The problem was that I tried a blue devil head gasket sealer and apparently it made it worst. Right now I have flush cleaner in the cooling system, just in case it needs cleaning. Now, my question what is left to check, if the radiator keeps bubbling up, is that normal? Could a bad heater core be causing this? Just today I turned on the heater to max and to me it seemed like no heat was coming out. It was working fine, maybe. is just me, but there is no leaks noticable anywhere. So, if the problem still persists tomorrow, then I dont know what it could be.
Just so you know the problem has not been fixed yet! I already changed the head gasket and apparently this wasnt really necessary. The head gasket was good, however there was a problem we found, the coolant pipe that goes from thermostat to water pump was leaking because the metal was bad. I replaced it with a good one and new oem o rings. After putting the head back, another problem happened, the water pump went bad and this water pump was new. The problem was that I tried a blue devil head gasket sealer and apparently it made it worst. Right now I have flush cleaner in the cooling system, just in case it needs cleaning. Now, my question what is left to check, if the radiator keeps bubbling up, is that normal? Could a bad heater core be causing this? Just today I turned on the heater to max and to me it seemed like no heat was coming out. It was working fine, maybe. is just me, but there is no leaks noticable anywhere. So, if the problem still persists tomorrow, then I dont know what it could be.
Last edited by alextech; Jul 24, 2018 at 07:08 PM.
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Did you check for warpage? You're gonna have to look at everything that pertains to the coolant running through your system. Even the heater core and the radiator. Why? Cuz if blue devil fucked up your water pump what else do you think will get fucked up along the way?
The coolant neck on the thermostat housing isn't the issue, there suppose to be a gasket around the thermostat and if you didn't buy that then yes its leaking around there for a reason.
The coolant neck on the thermostat housing isn't the issue, there suppose to be a gasket around the thermostat and if you didn't buy that then yes its leaking around there for a reason.
Did you check for warpage? You're gonna have to look at everything that pertains to the coolant running through your system. Even the heater core and the radiator. Why? Cuz if blue devil fucked up your water pump what else do you think will get fucked up along the way?
The coolant neck on the thermostat housing isn't the issue, there suppose to be a gasket around the thermostat and if you didn't buy that then yes its leaking around there for a reason.
The coolant neck on the thermostat housing isn't the issue, there suppose to be a gasket around the thermostat and if you didn't buy that then yes its leaking around there for a reason.
After you blew again after head gasket job, the overheat could have warped the head, very common.
Also no heat mean big *** air pocket in the heater core. Coolant system not fully purged again.
I would suggest getting a block tester and see if you get combustion gasses coming out the radiator.
Also no heat mean big *** air pocket in the heater core. Coolant system not fully purged again.
I would suggest getting a block tester and see if you get combustion gasses coming out the radiator.
If the water log, or pipe, rusted to **** someone hasn't been using proper coolant.
old *** car so I DONT expect the headgasket to still be good. Remove head, get a machined straight edge and check for warpage.
old *** car so I DONT expect the headgasket to still be good. Remove head, get a machined straight edge and check for warpage.
I would certainly do a coolant pressure test, or have one done at a shop if you can’t rent one in your town. If there’s an external leak, you should see it while the system is pressurized. If there is no external leak, take your spark plugs out and check for the hissing sound of the pressure escaping into the combustion chamber.
you can also use a block tester, which is what I used to check my head gasket. It’s a straight forward kit, a tube with a blue chemical in it that you put on the radiator filler neck. If it turns green or yellow, there’s combustion gases in your cooling system.
essentially, try to carefully diag this before shotgunning parts at it. Also it’s easy to mess up a head gasket install, usually with lack of prep work. Ask me how I know..
Also consider::::: you did a lot of cooling system work on this thing, so make sure it’s properly bled! There’s a procedure on this forum, do a search. I would have it flushed at a shop to get that stop leak out.
my two cents. Someone plz chime in if I’m wrong about something. I personally had one hhhhhheck of a time with the cooling system on my car after a motor swap, and the heater core is literally the only thing I didn’t have to replace. Previous owner used tap water I think....
you can also use a block tester, which is what I used to check my head gasket. It’s a straight forward kit, a tube with a blue chemical in it that you put on the radiator filler neck. If it turns green or yellow, there’s combustion gases in your cooling system.
essentially, try to carefully diag this before shotgunning parts at it. Also it’s easy to mess up a head gasket install, usually with lack of prep work. Ask me how I know..
Also consider::::: you did a lot of cooling system work on this thing, so make sure it’s properly bled! There’s a procedure on this forum, do a search. I would have it flushed at a shop to get that stop leak out.
my two cents. Someone plz chime in if I’m wrong about something. I personally had one hhhhhheck of a time with the cooling system on my car after a motor swap, and the heater core is literally the only thing I didn’t have to replace. Previous owner used tap water I think....
combustion test as well.
fwiw, same issue with my sis's db7 back then. But instead of fixing the head gasket I dropped in a b20b. Runs like a champ. Much better investment because I had to do the time, math of cost, and longevity of the car itself. Not everyone can afford to buy a car every 4yrs so yes the car had to last. And it did. Bought back in 05-06, engine replaced in 2010. Still running in 2018. Original autotragic too. 250k+++
fwiw, same issue with my sis's db7 back then. But instead of fixing the head gasket I dropped in a b20b. Runs like a champ. Much better investment because I had to do the time, math of cost, and longevity of the car itself. Not everyone can afford to buy a car every 4yrs so yes the car had to last. And it did. Bought back in 05-06, engine replaced in 2010. Still running in 2018. Original autotragic too. 250k+++
Back before I did my blue top swap in my hatch, I had the same exact issue. I did all of the same **** you've done and was completely at a loss until I smelled coolant in the cabin of the car real strong one day. It ended up being the heater core. Just to make sure that's what it was, when I pulled it, I did a pressure test and found a tiny crack that was along the seam. But I agree with the others, time for a swap.
I have not done a pressure test, I bled the coolant system again and it lassted two weeks and after a while it started to ober heat slghtly. I dont believe I need a new motor. i only have 130k on it lol. And no water in the motor. I will see what I can do.
Only so many things that can cause overheating, as other have said I would do a compression test and make sure every cylinder is within tolerance. Also swap out the thermostat as they are cheap and can stick especially if a car has been low of antifreeze and and overheated. With the radiator off Let the car get to full heat until the cooling fans cycle and all air bubbles are out of the system, unless you have a bad fan / radiator cap/ head gasket/ thermostat or low fluid.... the car should not overheat.
Goodluck
Goodluck
iv had many a "cheap" chinese thermostats....and they refuse to open.
one way to test before install is check temp as you boil it in water to watch it open.
or drill out the weep hole on the thermostat....................but you should have to do that
one way to test before install is check temp as you boil it in water to watch it open.
or drill out the weep hole on the thermostat....................but you should have to do that
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