The engine in my 2000 Civic HX started overheating on Wednesday. It turns out that my radiator cracked. I tested the engine compression and got 0 PSI in all cylinders. I borrowed a tester and got 0 PSI in two cylinders. I probably should have tested the rest, but I put the car together and drove to the only shop that I have ever trusted. The mechanic said they could not test my head gasket without a radiator, so I installed one from Napa. I still got 0 PSI in all four cylinders with my kit, but 0-0-150-180 with the borrowed one, and it seems like there is a slight oily sheen in the radiator, so I am guessing the seal between the first two cylinders went bad. I replaced the head gasket in a Subaru, so I am confident that I can rebuild my Civic.

When I tested the compression before it was low, which is why I would want to rebuild, and not just replace the head gasket.

Thank you very much for any feedback! Have a great day!

 

Are you saying you checked compression prior to head gasket issue..if so, what were the compression numbers?
Did you do both a dry and wet compression test like this before head gasket issue:

Dry and wet compression test:
1) Put battery on a battery charger for four hours prior to compression test. You could keep the charger connected to the battery during the compression test but it may harm the charger (amperage overload) so it's your call on that. The idea is to have strong cranking each time you test to ensure max compression. Weak battery/cranking could negatively effect compression readings.
2) Prior to dry compression test remove all the spark plugs and inspect them for any fouling. Compare them to a spark plug fouling chart on-line or post pics of them here. A lean burn will show up as white-ish, possibly crusty buildup. Keep all spark plugs removed throughout the compression test.
3) Ensure your compression test adapter is screwed on very tight and optionally add a bit of blue thread locker on the adapter's inner (female) threads to prevent the adapter from getting stick on the spark plug threads during compression test. Also, add a bit of oil to the compression tester adapter's outer (male) threads before screwing into the cylinder head's spark plug threads. Do not over-tighten the compression tester hose/adapter when screwing down to cylinder head..enough to seal against compression loss but not too tight to possibly cause the adapter to get stuck. It's really an easy process but just takes a bit of repetition to get the feel of it.
4) With the adapter/hose lead secure and connected to the compression gauge have a helper crank the engine while holding the gas pedal to the floor...doing so disables the injectors so no gas gets into the cylinder. Alternatively or in addition too you could disconnect the distributor harness as additional safety measure.
5) While your helper cranks the engine you watch the compression gauge. Don't stop cranking the engine until a few cranks past the peak reading shown on the compression tester.
6) Write down the compression number, discharge the pressure (button on side of compression tester), move to the next cylinder to test and apply oil to adapter prior to inserting for each cylinder.
7) The cylinders should read within 10%-15% of each other. Any cylinder that test low should be re-tested (wet) with a Tablespoon of oil. The oil temporarily seals the space between the cylinder walls and piston's compression ring. Adding oil should raise compression significantly for any cylinder that test low (compression) during dry test if, compression loss is through a stuck or broken piston compression ring. However, a wet test does not rule out compression loss through damaged valves or valve seals. A leak-down test will help verify compression loss through valves/ valve seals, piston compression rings and through a leaking head gasket.

 

Previous test:

Five seconds: 135, 141, 151, 149 (Difference: 16, 10%)
Ten seconds: 154, 154, 159, 166 (Difference: 12, 8%)
Ten seconds with oil: 166, 172, 174, 181 (Difference: 15, 9%)

 

The tolerances from cylinder to cylinder are within 10% or less of each other during that compression test. A total rebuild is optional and a new head-gasket alone should cure the leak between adjacent cylinders restoring compression. More than likely the cylinder will need to be milled flat at a machine shop. While the head is at the machine shop it would be a good idea to have them clean (hot tank) the head, do a valves lapp, clean and polish the valve and install new valve stem seals. The shop will/should test the valves for leakage.

If you were to rebuild it ..what exactly would you do to it?

How many miles since the last valves adjustment?

 

I just want a stock HX. I have had the car for 52,000 miles and have not done a valve lash and the previous owner did not give me any paperwork.

Someone elsewhere recommended an EngineTech kit from RockAuto, but they are out of stock, and I cannot find them elsewhere.

I tested compression with another kit from O'Reilly's and one from Autozone. Each of those dropped to zero by the time I got out of the driver's seat, around the door, and back under the hood, but I recorded video, and my gauge (from O'Reilly's) read 84-80-80-124. The Autozone kit read 85-79-85-99. Someone told me to purchase a Harbor Freight kit. I felt like asking if he hated me, but I did. That gauge does not drop pressure until you release it, even if you disconnect the hose. Harbor Freight said 105-109-102-110.

I imagine that a leakdown test would tell us even more, but between all of this, the oily sheen on my radiator fluid, and the exhaust gas tester that turned green before jumping in my lap and peeing on me, I am convinced that I have a bad head gasket.

 

Do a valves adjustment and then re-test compression as I described in my first reply. Valves can tighten over time/use and could be affecting the compression readings. Very important to keep the battery fully charged during the compression test.

Engine Tech kits: Engine Kits | Enginetech Do you know what all is involved with over-hauling an engine properly?

Auto parts stores free tool rental is a great thing but unfortunately since their tools get so much use they are often worn out....my guess is both testers are leaking air. I have a Harbor Fright compression tester and while it's not professional quality it does work well enough for the few times I use it per year. After you do a valves adjustment...If you have a friend that can crank the engine while you watch the compression gauge you may get higher peak readings.

If it were mine I would start with head-gasket replacement first and if that doesn't solve the issue then move onto pulling the engine for an overhaul. The advantage of a leak-down test compared to a compression tester is it can isolate compression loss to either cylinder compression rings leakage or valves leakage or head gasket leakage (bubbles will appear in radiator). Best to use Honda genuine (oe/oem) parts...you'll need a head-gasket, intake manifold gasket, valve stem seals and possibly more: valve cover, spark plug tube seals, etc,,
Plan on bringing the head to a machine shop for inspection and most likely at minimum milling of the head to straighten out warpage. IMO.while the head is at the machinist it's best to also get a valves (job) lapp, cleaning and new stem seals installed as well as milling. Should run somewhere between $200 and $300. Valve stem seals kit (all included) is around $20 or less.

If you don't know the age/mileage of the timing belt (kit) then you may want to consider installing a new one at the same time as head gasket replacement. I usually use HondaPartsNow for genuine (oe/oem) Honda parts. Follow the service manual for all repairs.

 

Valve lash first or replace the head gasket?

Thanks! I know that it is a ridiculous amount of work that is often not worthwhile on a car old enough to need it.

I recorded video and watched it to get the numbers.

So, not Engine Tech? I will shop around.

Thanks. Will do.

I had the timing belt replaced February 2015 about 41,500 miles ago.

 

Since a valves adjustment is easy and only takes a bit more than an hour I'd say do it before removing the head to see if it effects compression. If you end up getting a valves lapp, polish, head cleaning, milling, valve stem seals at the machinist you'll need to do another valves adjustment after replacing the head gasket so keep that in mind.

 

I never got very far with EngineTech's website because when I click on the part finder it says to contact them for login information. However, I asked RockAuto to notify me when the EngineTech kits were in stock again. They do not show D16y5 kits, but D16Y8 ones that also fit D16Y5,Y7 and D16Y7 ones that also fit D16Y5, Y8.

Does it make a difference? They do not seem to be exactly the same, one costs a dollar more than the other.

Thanks!