Howdy howdy gents!

So I'm on my second engine build in about 4 months (thanks dyno shop, for blowing my sh-- up! see you in court later this month!)

Going from a b20v to a b18c1 with a b16 head:
I have a few questions about my build. hopefully i can post up some photos, but im literally reformatting my corrupt SD card as i type this-

I've done a good chunk of research and all but im still curious about a few things- im gonna post some questions which i may know the answer to, so ill write what i think may be the answer (i like verification, so please save the flames for a grill)

OKAY!
-First thing.. the BLOCK
I bought a used b18c1, obd2 complete block for 200 bucks. hell of a deal- the downside is that he kept it uncovered in his unit, so there is surface rust in two of the cylinders.
Good news is, i sprayed it down with PB blaster, and wiped MOST of the rust out, but theres a glaze of rust left. its not sandpapery, and its not pitted, but its orange colored. Would this be a good indication that a honing would suffice, or would i need to bore out .25? my thoughts are a honing.

-Next with the block is the crankshaft. there was no harmonic balancer, when i purchased, which scared me a little, but i had an extra from my old build (i can use a b20b balancer, correct??) when i got home, i slapped some vice grips on and spun the motor over. turned with no issues at all, luckily.
--- despite it turning fine, manually, would you guys suggest that i still have the crank balanced, and cleaned up? on that very note, how exactly do you buy new bearings for the correct oil clearance? im fully aware you have to plastgauge and use a micrometer on the the crank journals, but im unsure of how you find the clearance without buying the bearings- what if you buy them and they arent to spec, or the clearance is too large? that part has me confused. I'd surely love to just buy some ACL standards, but i wanna make sure it's done right. Do you use the old bearings for the size-up, and buy new ones, based on what the clearances come out to on the olds? see what im asking, exactly? lots of videos show people buying new bearings, checking and they are spot on, but i hear stories of spun bearings, and stuff.... not my ideal situation on my second rebuild in 4 months.
Thrust bearings are basically drop in, and go, correct?
Also, should i pick up a set of ARP main studs?
I have a set of b20v ARP Head studs, which to my understanding are indeed the same as b18c main studs
also, to my understanding, i will need a b16 headgasket (get the one for the head, IIRC?), unless im wrong, and need a b18c gasket.

NEXT UP: PISTONS!
currently in the block is p72-AO pistons which have a negative dome and a compression ratio of 10.0 : 1 on a full b18c1 motor- supposedly with a b16 head, im looking around 9 or 9.2ish : 1
Personally, i want a reliable, daily driver, but I do want the car to actually be quick. im not boosting *at least any time soon*, so i was considering buying a set of Nippon p73-00 ITR pistons which have a compression ratio of 11.4:1 (b18c+pr3 head)
Regardless of the piston selection, I absolutely want to get new piston rings for either choice, as they have rotated through rust, and they have unknown mileage.
Those Nippon pistons + rings + wrist pins will cost $190. What are your guys thoughts on this setup / CR? i will be using a MINT condition, STOCK 99 b16 (pr3-3) head, thats been decked .04, and had a valve job done.
would i run into any issues with this high of compression with a stock head / springs?

RODS:
THANKFULLY, i have a set of new Eagle B18C rods, that were not used from my previous build (was going to put a gsr crank/rods/bearings in my b20v with 12.5:1 pistons (effectively 11.0 with that setup IIRC)- didnt happen, so i have rods left over.
Obviously, i should swap the stock rods out for the Eagles, and throw new rod bearings in. Good idea? Bad idea?

HEAD: again, 99 b16 head (pr3-3 cast). to my knowledge it came from a Del Sol Si. the owner sent it to a machine shop for .04 milling, a valve job, a bath in a hot tank and received a valve job (still has some valve lube in the guides)
Stock springs, retainers, valves- thing literally looks like it was just made from Honda, yesterday
Intake is a skunk2 pro2 b16 manifold
BONUS MEME: So on this head, to the left of the year stamp, there is three square boxes... IN the first box is a japanese character in it.... if you can image an undercase T with an H as one character, thats what it looks like- ill post pics later.

Camshafts: I have a set of GSR camshafts i plan to use.... anyone object?

ECU: okay, this is the part where i am very stuck... i have a JDM p30 (stock) and a p72 ECU (chipped) to my understanding, i can use either one stock, but to what degree would they be efficient?
as of right now, im literally terrified of putting my car on a dyno without a guarantee that they wont blow it the fudge up. it happened to my first build that was running perfect for 700 miles, and they abused it, and im in a lawsuit with them.
im not opposed to dyno tuning- im really not, BUT...... i wanna know if one of these ECU's (p30 or p72) can run the car as is, no issues..... just as i realized this, i forgot im running 410cc RDX injectors in my harness......

Misc parts:
Em1 (obd2b) harness / obd1 alternator (wired) / spliced 410cc injectors
b20 bottom timing cover + gasket, beat up b18c bottom timing cover (b20 cant work, right?)
b16 top timing cover
valve cover + 2x -10an fittings + AllStar breather can
4-1 headers, 2.5" hi flow cat (not stock)
2.5" exhaust piping, resonator, 2.5" vibrant muffler
im going to be reusing the new water pump i put on my b20v, and maybe the oil pump, assuming it didnt get damaged after the piston blew a hole in it.
competition stage 2 clutch


Lemme know whatcha guys think, any side comments you may have, any build advice, crucial "dont forget this" comments, etc etc etc.

 

First thing is to get the block (bores) measured. How do you know the block hasn't already been machined? I would also measure the mains at the same time. There are codes on the block for bearing clearances. But again, how do you know they haven't been align honed before?

Blue printing and balancing is all about measuring, gotta start somewhere. ^

 

Stock ECU's are for stock engines... what you have proposed above is not stock, and therefore, REQUIRES a tune.