Just reset the suspension on my 95 hatch. Set (raised) ride height and dialed out negative camber.

The front S2 arms, I set to full positive. Ride height (measured center of wheel to fender) is 13".

The rear, I randomly set camber on one side, measured the threads and transferred to the other side. Ride height is 12.5".

What ever I did, I now have zero camber on each corner before setting toe.

I didn't actually think about where I should be setting my camber for daily use.


I've never seen anything about driving with zero camber, wonder what others might think about it. All I see is more tire contact and think I'll be fine. Would this also work on track?

 

The stock alignment specs probably allow for 0 deg of camber.

No, it will not work well on a track.

 

Stock specs for a EF/EG is nominally zero camber front, negative half a degree rear, with a degree of tolerance, at STOCK ride height.

Camber should never be positive, but there has to be some service tolerance.

Honda (classic double wishbone) suspension is designed to produce negative camber during the upward suspension travel. This gives those hondas good handling as the car rolls into a corner. (not so much the later and current honda mcpherson strut cars)

when you drop your ride height, as most people do, the stock specs are invalid.

it is best to keep the stock arms and not dial out any of the negative camber that gives a better handling car.

a car that wants even better handling, such as a track car, will typically dial in more negative camber as their roll amounts increase.

there is no ill effect to negative camber, it is not responsible for aggressive uneven tire wear. the change in toe and being left uncorrected is the main reason why people end up with poor tire wear after lowering.