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Been a long time lurker here, figured now would be a good time to post since I'm still a trial member
Picked up an H22A swapped 92 Si for cheap last week. The guy swapped it a few years ago and couldn't get it started, then lost the keys. Had an alarm in it too that was pretty poorly hidden, so I cut that out of the ignition. I can still turn the engine over on the starter and it will briefly run on starter fluid.
The battery, oil, and check engine light do not come on at all, main relay does click but I have no fuel at the rail. Fuel gauge also reads completely empty, but it was cluster swapped to a VTEC cluster so I'm thinking there is some goofy wiring back there. Also have tried other known working ECUs and still no fuel, thinking there isn't power to the computer.
To check for power at the ECU do I just probe those pins with a multimeter and ground the other probe?
Any help is appreciated.
If I put +12v to ECU A25 and B1, and grounded A23, A24, A26 and B2, would that be a safe(safe-ish) way to get the car to run just for a drive around the block before I pull the swap?
Grounded A23, 24, 26 and B2, got the check engine light to came on as well as the fuel pump by jumping the main relay. Turned the engine over and heard it fire a few times before the battery died, will try again once it's charged and see if it starts.
Make sure the ground on the thermostat housing is hooked up, that's the main PCM ground, it wont power up without it hooked up and you'll have no fuel.
Do I need to ground the ECU right to the thermostat or is it ok to just ground to somewhere else? I ask because I have the ecu grounded inside the cabin and any time the engine fires, the dash goes black.
There is a harness ground that attaches to a bolt at the thermostat housing. Go look below the thermostat housing for the ground and see if it's attached.
I'm pretty sure the ground at the thermostat is missing. Can i just extend the 4 ground wires from the ecu to the thermostat and put a ring terminal on It?
Grounding points are very much well thought out as to their placement so yes, I would put it back where it should be on the side of the thermostat housing.
Here is the schematic that contains everything that goes to G101
Thank you very much minilogoguy! Will go over it and restore the harness as needed.
Also discovered the last owner drained the fuel tank when it was parked several years ago, and the gas gauge was accurately reading. Put a gallon in it. Fingers crossed I didn't burn out the fuel pump running it on empty.
Final update: under dash harness was way too hacked up to be salvageable... Did get it to run for a few seconds on starter fluid with the help of my buddy, didn't hear any knocking. H22 getting pulled tomorrow and car is going to pick n pull. Thanks for the help guys!
I have just put a 94 H22 into my 99 EJ9(EK). Its cranking over but not firing...
Plugs are getting fuel.
Spark plugs sparking.
Compression 150psi, piston 2 only 60psi
Main relay clicking on ignition turn on.
Timing checked.
Plugged into s300 and only getting one error code for atmospheric sensor.
OBD2 loom has crank speed sensor left floating.
MAP sensor reading -1.3psi +-0.1, tried starting with MAP sensor disconnected.
IACV blanked off on SK2 IM.
ECU light is also flashing on the dash when ignition on. Video of cranking
Please Help....
Last edited by griggc; Mar 17, 2018 at 03:05 PM.
Reason: Add google video
Blocking off the IACV will make it harder to start. You may have to pedal it a bit. The CEL blinking is a function of the Hondata s300 system... do you have more codes besides the PA/Baro sensor ??? What basemap are you using ??? It should run on 3 cylinders... although it will run crappy. What fuel line are you using between the fuel filter and the fuel rail ??? What fuel rail are you using ???
JRCivic1
Just the atmospheric pressure sensor error code is flagging on Hondata.
Map sensor value reading seems to stay at -1.6psi regardless of different MAP sensors being plumbed in and physically blowing into the MAP inlet, The MAP wiring has been double checked.
I've uploaded the H22 basemap onto the p28 but have also plugged the standard P13 and EK ECU to see if made any difference.
Iam using an ebay inline fuel filter directly plumbing into the stock fuel rail.
I swapped the low impedance injectors out for high impedance once as I do not have a resistor box, since doing that I have now noticed iam getting no spark off the dizzy. just unlucky I guess.
Grounds have been checked,Main relay still good.
Are there any fuses that can blow which would effect dizzy firing?
Also as they may notice from the video the cranking speed seems slow, its cranking over at 125rpm, is this too low for start up? Ive noticed the H22 manual says 55AH and im running a 45Ah 330A Bosh S4 023 Battery.
The Barometric/Atmospheric pressure sensor is located inside the ECU... if you are getting a code for it, chances are good you have a wiring problem or a bad ECU. There is an ICM fuse in the under dash fuse box. Charge the battery overnight and see if it cranks over faster tomorrow. You may have simply run it down after trying to crank it so much.
So still no spark, but have noticed something interesting on the distributor whilst replacing the rotor arm and cap, with key ignition on both + and - terminals inside the dizzy read +12V DC. Does anyone know if this is correct?
Secondly: The spark leads are reading 7-11kilo ohms resistance, This sounds high, I would of thought it should have minimal resistance i.e. 1-2ohms.
"Secondly: The spark leads are reading 7-11kilo ohms resistance, This sounds high, I would of thought it should have minimal resistance i.e. 1-2ohms. "
Just found in my manual that the leads should be less than 25K-ohm.
Grig sorry to hear about your issues. Are you using a non fucked up harness and known good ecu?
Also threw the h22 in my eg last week (what a long week ) had to extend a few things on my harness and fired right up. Used an obd1 internal coil dizzy
H22 Swap No Start
) had to extend a few things on my harness and fired right up. Used an obd1 internal coil dizzy
