I replaced headgasket, resurfaced the head, replaced headbolts, ground the valves, replaced valve seals, and adjusted valve lash. I set the mechanical timing twice now. Double checked before I tightened the power steering pulley. Replaced with a new distributor and plug wires. I cannot get it to pop even with starting fluid. Any ideas what's going on? I also had the gas cap loose for a few months as I did all the work, would you think the gas is bad?

Also note here, when I did the headgasket replacement I had a little trouble with getting the head on with the two studs, I bent it a little pulling it out when I resurfaced. It took a little to get the MLS felpro headgasket on, I sprayed the copper sealer on both sides and torqued it down to specs. It looks like a little assembly lube squeezed out from the new headbolts, hopefully that didn't mess with it.

 

Do you have spark?
check all growing wires there is main ground either on thermostat housing or drivers side of intake manifold

 

Ok I reversed the plug wires on the distributor opposite of the diagram and the thing started. It smoked really bad from the exhaust header and tail pipe. The idle slowly got higher and started surging. I finally shut it off. The oil looks like it went down quite a bit.

 

They do smoke after replacing the head gasket.
only thing that scares me is that you bent the dowl pins (should have replced them) and you put copper cote on head gasket I always put them on dry with light oil on head bolt threads and under washer.
the surging could be an air pocket in cooling system or bad fast idle valve.

 

Yes I got a lot of bubbling and coolant going down while I refilled. Sounds like chattering coming from the intake I could hear. I'm pretty sure I adjusted the valve lash correctly. Do you think that would be the reason for the white smoke? It's also synthetic oil.

 

Sometimes the some takes 10-15 minutes and a test drive to go away depends how much coolant got in your exhaust when you took it apart. Wouldn't worry about synthetic oil. Once all air is out of cooling system it should not bubble any more

 

As far as the valves go adjust cold order is 1432 #1 is closes to belt and loose is better then tight

 

Wait what do you mean by that? There's an order you have to adjust them?

 

The distributor shaft can be engaged 180 degrees off from where it should be. This causes the engine not to start unless you also switch the spark plug wires. So you should put the distributor back on the right way and then put the wires back as they should be. There is a groove cut in the end of the cam and the distributor drive dog to show the proper placement. The groove should be on the same side. If you run like you have it now, fuel injectors will not be in sync with the intake valves opening.

For a quick check that valves are not too tight, make sure there is a place that cam can be turned so that each rocker arm goes slack. If there are rocker arms that never go slack, the valves need to be adjusted. Set the cylinder that you are adjusting to TDC so all 4 valves are closed. This means set the engine to TDC1 to adjust #1, then turn the crank counterclockwise 180 degrees (cam 90 degrees) and do #3, then #4 then #2. This is the same order that the spark plugs fire.

 

When you are on tdc1 there will be a Mark on each side of the valve side of the cam pulley that will line up flush with each side of the head and #1 lifters will be loose if your still not sure your on #1 put long screwdriver in plug hole and make sure it is up all the way. (YouTube it or get a service Manuel)