1998 Honda Civic LX Starts and Dies
1998 Honda Civic LX Starts Up and Dies.
Ok so I have solid spark at plugs, I just replaced the entire distributor. The problem was occurring exactly the same before distributor was replaced. Upon dying the main relay flutters. I believe the reason it is dying is the relay is being tripped and fuel pump kicks out. Also, I have replaced the main ground cable to chassis. In addition, I have tested resistance on all grounds and all are good. I'm thinking either the ignition switch or fuel pump.
Ok so I have solid spark at plugs, I just replaced the entire distributor. The problem was occurring exactly the same before distributor was replaced. Upon dying the main relay flutters. I believe the reason it is dying is the relay is being tripped and fuel pump kicks out. Also, I have replaced the main ground cable to chassis. In addition, I have tested resistance on all grounds and all are good. I'm thinking either the ignition switch or fuel pump.
Just so you all know I am not a mechanic, just an educated handyman. I prefer a miter saw and tape any day over a OBD2 tester. Also being a mechanic sounds very stressful the last one I met had a string of clients with no money and had to take a car as payment.
I appreciate this community and the reply "mk378"
Thanks You
Ok so I just checked it and once it dies the check engine light comes on and seems to be in sync with main relay flutter. Also, the battery light does come on but no oil light at all. So I have ordered switch hopefully this will be the part!!!!!!!
I installed switch and it still is dying. Although I can hear fuel pump prime maybe that is it, so I'll do some more fuel testi. testing. I wish this was as simple as bad ground.
Hi that fuse was fine, I even ohm tested it and tested good. I don't have a fuel pressjre gauge so I may just go out and buy pump. Every other Honda I've had had been no where as challenging as this one.
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Chattering relays point to an electrical problem, not something mechanical like the fuel pump.
The oil light should come on whenever the key is on and the engine is not turning. It may take a few seconds for the oil pressure to go down after it stops. You can also pull the brake handle up and watch the "BRAKE" light. These lights show that the ignition circuit is getting power.
The oil light should come on whenever the key is on and the engine is not turning. It may take a few seconds for the oil pressure to go down after it stops. You can also pull the brake handle up and watch the "BRAKE" light. These lights show that the ignition circuit is getting power.
Chattering relays point to an electrical problem, not something mechanical like the fuel pump.
The oil light should come on whenever the key is on and the engine is not turning. It may take a few seconds for the oil pressure to go down after it stops. You can also pull the brake handle up and watch the "BRAKE" light. These lights show that the ignition circuit is getting power.
The oil light should come on whenever the key is on and the engine is not turning. It may take a few seconds for the oil pressure to go down after it stops. You can also pull the brake handle up and watch the "BRAKE" light. These lights show that the ignition circuit is getting power.
OK thanks mk378, I do want to mention that after I took the main relay out and soldered once connection I thought as bad I did get the car to run for about an hour without a problem I thought I had it fixed in addition I had every fuse pulled out to do this other than mian systems and the heater. Upon installing all the fuses the car did the same thing (back to stalling)I tried to recreate the car running good by doing this all over again and it did not happen, still stalled.
I have noticed that there was some melted wires up by the headlamps. A previous owner had to reconnect them so today I am going to tear apart the wiring harnesses that go to the headlamps, and look for and repair anything that appears to be shorting. Are electrical issues common in Hondas?
OK thanks mk378, I do want to mention that after I took the main relay out and soldered once connection I thought as bad I did get the car to run for about an hour without a problem I thought I had it fixed in addition I had every fuse pulled out to do this other than mian systems and the heater. Upon installing all the fuses the car did the same thing (back to stalling)I tried to recreate the car running good by doing this all over again and it did not happen, still stalled.
I have noticed that there was some melted wires up by the headlamps. A previous owner had to reconnect them so today I am going to tear apart the wiring harnesses that go to the headlamps, and look for and repair anything that appears to be shorting. Are electrical issues common in Hondas?
I have noticed that there was some melted wires up by the headlamps. A previous owner had to reconnect them so today I am going to tear apart the wiring harnesses that go to the headlamps, and look for and repair anything that appears to be shorting. Are electrical issues common in Hondas?
OK, so it seems it was a wiring issue. I took apart wiring harness where I noticed a melted wire. Car seems OK now. However in the process before I messed with wires I loosened the bolts on fuel pressure regulator. I tightened back up and now it leaks. I read there is a copper washer and o ring for sealing it up. So I assume its like a compression fitting in a house the copper seal is onlyb meant to seal once and must get a new seal if taken apart.
Fuel pressure regulator to fuel rail is sealed with a rubber o-ring only.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...OLD+%28SOHC%29 Part #9.
The "banjo fitting" lines from the filter have copper washers only.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...OLD+%28SOHC%29 Part #9.
The "banjo fitting" lines from the filter have copper washers only.
Thanks everyone, I'm happy with this Honda the rest of world gave up on. Thank god for liquid tape and the advice that it was electrical and not fuel pump. Car is running solid @218k any suggested maintenance given mileage?
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