Somalie187

iTrader: (1)

Ok so...

1995 Honda Civic CX STOCK ENGINE

Car was stolen... Sat for about 30 days, no crank, no start, gauge lights remained solid and main relay clicked really fast, no fuel pump priming,.

Battery is hooked up to a jump starter for hours to charge.

1. Cleaned all grounds with solution of vinegar and baking soda and light sand paper.
2. Replaced Main Relay
3. Checked all fuses WITH a Multi-meter
4. Pulled an old aftermarket immobilizer unit out of the wiring under the dash.
5. Discovered Ignition Switch wires were cut and spliced with previously installed immobilizer unit.

6. Fixed Ignition Switch
7. Key In ---> On position---> Fuel Pump Primes---> CEL Shuts off---> Car CRANKS but no start.

8. Check for spark, No spark
9. Check continuity of wires leading to distributor... good
10. Check voltage and continuity of ignition switch.. good
11. Check voltage to fuel pump... good
12. Replace Distributor with rebuilt unit... Now get strong blue spark.
13. Car cranks, but will still not start.

So my next lead to follow seems to be the fuel injectors... Its crank no start symptom is almost like the flat chip along the driver side towards the firewall is not plugged in... Cranks all day but will never start. I do not know if this chip affects the fuel injectors but... its possible.

So how do I go about diagnosing an injector issue?

Are there other electrical diagnostic test that must be performed?

Is there a start signal in these cars that fail due to certain components?

Thanks all, hope I have been detailed enough in my steps towards solving this issue.

And anymore help will be much appreciated.

92 civic ex 4dr

You can go to your local auto parts store and rent/borrow a test light kit for fuel injectors. You UN plug all of your injectors and plug in the lights then crank the car and watch for the lights to flicker. That will tell you if you are getting power to them or not.

If you are then you can take an OHMS meter/reader and check each injector individually. I'm not sure what the resistance should be at though...


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Former User

Blue spark is weak. Spark should be bright white. Test the coil and igniter unit in the distributor.

Somalie187

iTrader: (1)

Ok Ron will check the spark again and report back on the color I observe.

Is it possible the installation of the new distributor may be slightly advanced or retarded causing the spark to be weak? Or does that not affect the strength of the spark?

I should of mentioned this before but it seems my battery will not hold a charge for longer than 4 hours. It is disconnected after every diagnostic procedure. And will usually sit on the charger for four+ hours.

Also the airbag, gauge cluster, combination switch are all disconnected.

Thanks Ron

Former User

Buy a new battery and then retest spark.

Somalie187

iTrader: (1)

Just reconnected the battery hopped in the car and boom fired right up... So stand by for anomalies