Actually I'm under it. Using the service manual and the how to on this sub, I've now officially removed my first cylinder head. Looking for some feedback and advice before the reset stage.

Some background info...
The car: 97 accord LX SOHC f22b2 no VTEC
The problem: overheats

Bought last spring, drove great for a month besides an exhaust leak (still need to fix that). On the first hot summer day I notice the temp spike on a long drive. I pull over and cool down and get some water in the radiator to make it home. Since then I went through a half dozen flushes and eliminated the thermostat, fans, and radiator as possibilities.

On the first instance there was visible sludge in the radiator, so I flushed like 10 times then filled it with proper coolant mix. For the next month she continued to see temp spikes under stress (hill climbs and hot days. I never let her hit red, but the problem is constant.

After another flush and testing the thermostat (replaced anyway, but it was fine), the summer cools off and the engine gets better. Only now instead of overheating under stress, she overheats on idle. I also start to notice coolant loss from a ghost leak, nothing visible. I'm super responsible so I drive it like this anyway for a couple months adding coolant regularly. I always bleed the air out by the way.

At that point most of the symptoms were starting to point to a blown head gasket. But I wasn't sure, with no tailpipe smoke or obvious oil/coolant contamination I thought it might be something else. Last week I found the leak, sort of. I could tell the coolant was getting low so I took a walk through a nearby part and let it cool off completely. Topped her off bled the system as usual. Not two miles later theres white smoke pouring out my hood. Could smell it in the heater vents when i cranked the heat.

It seemed a very large amount of coolant was steaming of my transmission/block/head area, passenger side. From my obsevation it looked like that head gasket gave out. Again being the picture of responsibility I decide to tear it apart and change that gasket before I check compression, but too late to worry about that now.

In the removal stage I was able to chech nearly every part of the cooling system and everything looks to be in working order. The gasket didn't seem as bad as I expected, but short of a cracked block (head looks good) I have no idea what else it could be. At this point she's going back together regardless so I can see if I was right.

Which finally brings me to the paticular hang ups I'm having with the gasket change:

1 the water jackets around the pistons are pretty nasty, any advice on cleaning those out while im down here?

2 where the heck is the coolant drain plug for the block on a b2? I'm really ashamed that this is still eluding me at this stage.

3 lastly, in fear of crankshaft pulley bolts I decided to leave the bottom timing cover on. Can't see any water pump leaks in there, so I went for it. But I couldn't turn the adjuster for the timing belt. I just kinda slipped it off. I know it wont be that easy to get it back on without the adjuster, so what gives? Do i just need to man up cause the bolt is stuck? I can only fit a monkey wrench in there, so not a lot of leverage. I can't picture the adjustor moving with the cover still in place any way.

If you read this far thanks a ton. I'll get this all sorted I'm sure, but I would love input on cleaning those channels in the block (hence wanting to find the drain plug) and getting the timing belt on once I'm there again. I might share some pics of the job later if there is an interest. Just need to remember how to host and share pictures! Thanks in advance.

 

If a muppet worked on the car before they may have over-tightened the adjuster nut. It should be an acorn nut. If you 'slipped' the belt off then it is not worth reusing. And a snapped belt will bend valves.
Definitely remove the crank bolt/pulley. Get the lower cover off and do it right. Replace the WP while you are in there, that may be part of your overheating issue.

Do it right the first time.

 

The adjuster nut has to be over tightened. I'm thinking to try unhooking the front and rear engine mounts to jack the block up the few more inches to fit a better tool in there. I'm gonna pull the crank bolt you are right, about both the belt and WP. Guess I need to go dig out my torch.

 

best thing to do is to have a shop zip it off with their impact gun and then gently tighten it back on so you can get it off easily with the Honda tool that holds the pulley that you can normally rent at most parts stores

 

also- Coolant drain plug for the F22B2 block is slightly above and beside the oil filter on the back side of the block. Plan on getting wet when you pull it.

 

And Holmesnmanny is referring to the main crank pulley I believe- If so, +1, that's how I did it.

 

The block drain plug pretty much fuses itself to the block after years of heat cycles.

 

Yeah I found that plug while cleaning and thought it might be it. Haven't had a go at it yet but I'm not optimistic. Maybe pulling the WP will drain enough to clean up those jackets a little. I had wanted to do an overnight soak in solvent but I guess that's probably out of the question.

I get the pully tool tomorrow so I'm gonna try on my own first. A few days of penetrating fluids and some heat might be enough. There's not a ton of room for a 20 foot chgeater bar in this garage though. I hate the idea of paying for a tow for this. Maybe there's a mobile mechanic that can come by to do it instead.

On the bright side a few extra days waiting for the WP timing belt has let me really clean up the whole engine bay and block/trans. Any future projects will be that much less annoying without 20 years of caked on grime.

 

Read up on the timing belt replacement DIY in the Accord FAQs page.
A small MAP gas torch set is usually plenty to heat shock the bolt.

 

After a few broken tools, the bolt has won the first few rounds. Everything else is cleaned and about ready for reset though. Today I think I'm going to put most of the car back together, leaving the upper timing cover off and just have a shop get that bolt. I'm pretty confident that I can finish the timing belts and the water pump pretty quick after that.

Thought things through pretty carefully, and I don't see a problem with reseting parts before removing the TB cover. I'd be more comfortable towing it with the head back on and covered, than just with a garbage bag taped over the block anyway.

PS I have the TB faq, the head gaskaet faq, and valve clearance adjusment faq all bookmarked. Planning to take all the time I need to triple check anything I'm unfamiliar with.