I'm at my wits end here. My car has been dying on me completely randomly, with no indication of what's going wrong (check engine doesn't come on, no strange sounds, nothing!) Let me start from the top...

Last week after hitting a particularly bumpy set of track tracks, my VSS died. So I drove the car to the mechanic the next morning, where it first died. I was on the interstate going about 60 when all my lights turned on, the car lost acceleration, and beeped a few times. The electrical system was still on, I panicked, but was able to turn the car off to the side of the road, let it sit for a bit, figured it was related to the dead VSS, and decided to drive more slow to the mechanic, got there safely (might not have been the safest move, but it was really all I could do at the time). I get it to the mechanic, they fix the VSS, everything works fine so I take it home the same day.

Now, I'm driving home, get into the neighborhood and the car dies. Nothing is on, I struggled to park it in a neighbors driveway since the wheel wouldn't turn when the car was off. I'm able to crank the car back up and drive it home like nothing happened. I found out my battery terminal was incredibly loose, so I got that fixed. Next day, it drives about 20 miles perfectly fine! Day after that, I'm driving to the same area I drove to before, and the car dies on me. I crank it back up, get back to the neighborhood, it dies a second time and struggles to turn back on, but I managed to get it back on and drive home. There is no check engine light or strange sounds for me to go off of here, just btw. I decided to see if it'd be safe to drive to the mechanic, so around midnight the next night (when it isn't hot out), I drove it up the road, and it died at the end of the street.

So I had it towed to the mechanic, they found nothing. I'm going to pick it up in the morning, but really don't know what's wrong with it. I have a few ideas, and that is the main relay malfunctioning, or maybe the distributor but that seems unlikely since it was replaced earlier this year.

Would anyone know what could be causing this, like if it is potentially the main relay? I just got it this year and don't want to see it kick the bucket so soon, it's been a good car to me...

*there isn't really a pattern to when it dies, it just straight up dies when in drive, but hasn't died while stopped oddly enough. it doesn't sputter, it doesn't slow down, it doesn't give me ANY warning before it dies.
**keep in mind, when I say the car turns off, I mean completely dead. Not just "the lights/engine are still on" (which DID happen once, but otherwise has not), but as though you've turned the car off in park.
***my car is a 1993 Honda Civic EX 1.6l/automatic, it has a VTEC system, if that makes any difference.

 

Ignition switch is common and fits your symptoms.

Not the key lock cylinder but the electrical part on the end of the cylinder.

I just replaced my wife's and so far so good.

There was a recall on certain accords etc. It's kind of common on these aging cars.

Read through this thread, in particular, post #11:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...witch-2944836/

 

Thanks! I'll take a look at the switch tomorrow when I get the car back after I ask if they looked at it or not.

 

Try to clean it first. While u wait for replacement.

 

Just as an FYI for you.

If the main relay is causing it's normal problems (also a known common issue) typically the fuel pump shuts off or another system and the car dies. However, the dash lights stay on so usually a couple of red idiots lights pop on when the car shuts off.

When the ignition switch is the problem, everything goes black. You have nothing on when it dies.

That's one of the key differences.

 

That was what was throwing me off the most! I was also told that the relay would throw a check engine light as well, so... Since I don't have any experience with the cars electrical parts, I will be taking it to another mechanic for a second opinion tomorrow and let them know. Because this started happening after hitting some train tracks really hard, something might have just popped out of place like my battery terminal connection screws did (don't know how the mechanic can't catch that and send me home with a loose terminal :/). I'll keep you guys updated.

 

Update! So the car would not die on my first mechanic, so they didn't really want to take a look at the ignition switch and potentially waste their time, or any other parts aside giving them a quick test. I drove it to this second mechanic without fail, got a call back about 5 hours later, turns out the car kept dying on him several times and he said it's the ignition switch. This guy doesn't have a switch that will fit my car on hand, so I will be looking for one online and calling places up, NAPA doesn't have any on my side of the country ((East Coast))

 

Dealership here only sells the whole lock cylinder with ignition switch and the other electrical components of the lock cylinder for 500+ CAD.

You are better off going to a salvage yard and getting the ignition switch part only from the same style (automatic or manual) car as yours. I pulled mine myself (complete lock cylinder and wiring) and it only cost 25 bucks CAD.

Any 92-95 civic will work, just make your life easier and stick with what your car is, automatic or manual transmission. The lock cylinders are different and most places sell the whole thing for 25-100 bucks. Make sure you get it with the key, so if at a later date you need to change the tumblers to make it fit your key, you can. (youtube is your friend for that part)

 

Local warehouse has the part new for $195 USD so I'm just opting for that since I can afford it, and the part comes with a warranty (and keys lol) which is nice. The labor itself is expensive as hell though since the driving column has to be taken off completely.... But thanks for the help! Picked up some really good general pointers in the event this happens again.

 

Sounds like your mechanic is going to swap the whole key cylinder, which of course means you will end up with a key for your door (oem key for the car) and some aftermarket key to start the car.

If you only swap the ignition switch on the back of the key cylinder, the column doesn't have to come off. And if you got the adjustable column (tilt steering wheel) you can actually get the key cylinder off without dropping the column. Just need a punch and a hammer for the sheer bolts.

 

I thought, why would you need to have the entire key cylinder replace when you only need to swap out the ignition switch?
i suggest cleaning it first because it's easy and free. Sometime the contacts gets gummed up and would not made a good connection. Cleaning and reapply contact grease. It may have saved you from buying a new ignition switch. But, if you have the money then why not.

 

Hi. In my issue it was ECU