So a couple weeks ago I went to leave work and when I turned the key all I got was a click from the starter, so I push started it just to get it home. So my first instinct was that the starter solenoid was bad so I went and purchased a new starter. I hooked the new starter up and still just clicks at the starter. So I replaced my battery ground and also added another ground directly to the starter bolt and still just clicks at the starter. So at this point I'm kind of stumped. I also removed the thermostat ground to clean and reinstall and still nothing. I have noticed that there isn't a engine ground on the VC but there wasn't before and it started. Also replaced starter wire and female connector on the starter. When I do get the starter to turn over with the key the starter sounds slow moving but if I take a wire directly from the battery to the signal wire on the starter then it turns over fast like it should. Any help is appreciated.

 

Check the wire from battery + to the starter. Make sure the big live terminal on the starter stays at +12 volts to starter ground while someone turns the key.

 

Oh yeah I also replaced the starter wire with a new one also put a new female connector on the signal wire.

 

If you have, by actual measurement, 12 volts from the bolt on the starter with the big live wire to starter ground, but it clicks and does not turn, the starter is bad.

If you don't have power and ground delivered to the starter there is a bad connection somewhere. Measure across each connection in the power and ground paths. A good connection will measure zero volts, the bad one will have the battery voltage across it.

 

ok with a DMM I got 12 volts on the starter wire from the battery and 11.7 from the signal but yet when I turn the key it still clicks. When I run a speaker wire directly from the battery to the signal on the starter it turns over just fine. Does that mean the starter still could be bad even though its brand new?

 

Check chassis ground to transmission case wire/cable. Move it to a different spot on the tranny.

 

I ran another chassis to starter bolt so now the tranny has two grounds

 

When my eg with gsr swap was doing the exact thing, it was because the ground cable from chassis to tranny wasnt making good flow. I had to pick a different spot on the tranny, pick a different bolt on the tranny. I had done the big 3, 4 on it. I thought ranning a single cable from battery directly to tranny, then tranny to chassis, using the same bolt, would help. It actually hurt it. Once i separated the wires for it own spot on the tranny, the car started right away.

but that was just my issue, just something for you to try. May or may not help fix your issue.

 

ill give it a try but the other tranny ground is going to a different location

 

So I took the chassis to tranny ground off and used a piece of sand paper to scuff up both sides then re-installed ground. Also took the new starter back and got another new starter and new battery then put everything back together and still just clicks at the starter still WTF. I can still run a positive wire straight off the battery to the signal and the starter works without any issues. Before when I ran the wire straight from the battery to the starter signal with the key to the on position the car would at least start, now it doesn't even start. The main relay is clicking and the fuel pump is priming. Haven't checked for spark yet but I want the starter to work properly first. Any help is appreciated . Is it possible the ignition switch would have anything to do with the situation?

 

clean it up if necessary, if you notice a diff then replace.
or just replace as it's only 40 clams or so.

DIY Ignition switch cleaning - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

 

So its fixed! Car still wont start but that's because the ignitor or coil went somewhere along the line when trying to start the car. New Dizzy on the way! Thanks for all the help!

 

sorry to bug, but I’m having the same issue with a civic wagon. Can you confirm this is fixed?