Hi All,

I just bought a 2001 CRV and it needs a clutch (220k miles). I'm no racer, nor am I a mechanic. I have been driving stick for 20 years though, and I keep buying manuals because I like driving them. Since this clutch needs replacing, I want to go with something a little higher performance, but from what I've been reading it sounds like if I go for a real racing clutch it could just be a pain for me. This is a daily driver. So, I'd really just love some suggestions on a good upgrade to the oem clutch on my CRV, and also if I should just stick with an oem spec'd (oem weight) flywheel. I don't want to deal with stalling, issues going into 1st or 2nd, issues depressing the clutch pedal, and I'm not going to be racing this or modifying it. I just want something a little more fun to drive than the stock clutch.

I've seen the suggestion of an exedy stage 1 and fidanza flywheel - is this a good clutch upgrade for my situation? If so, what flywheel weight?

My disclaimer here is that I really don't understand all the racing jargon and I have just a novice understanding of what a lighter flywheel / racing clutch may do for me; so simplified answers or explanations are welcome, as are links to good basic info on clutches. .

Thanks for any info!

 

I just bought an Exedy OE replacement for my Integra and I love it. If installed properly, a stock clutch will feel just fine without the added harshness of a "racing" clutch. Just my two cents, perfectly happy with a replacement OE clutch from Exedy.

 

Upgraded clutches are based on torque ratings. Basically if you don't need to hold additional torque (due to engine power modifications) you're wasting your money upgrading.

Now a lightened flywheel, that will give you a bit more acceleration pep, at the expense of not being able to carry as much momentum as there is less rotating mass.

one thing to remember about a lighter flywheel is that you are starting to play with the crank balance, which can cause things like the crank seals to start leaking, bearings to wear faster, etc.


I guess it's best to stick with oem replacements and call it good due to it being your DD and you don't want to have any problems.

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Thanks! That is super helpful. The is also what I've been starting to think... probably sticking to an oem replacement is best.
So... upgrading a clutch is generally something you do with engine modifications? And I'm guessing engine mods are something that require all kinds of other modifications too? Is there anywhere good to do some basic reading about this stuff (like... where do you all learn all this info from)?

Cool, thanks. Exedy sounds like the brand to go with. I've had 2 mechanics recommend Luk. Was thinking of at least getting the Luk flywheel. Anyone have any opinions on Luk vs. Exedy?
Also... where do I even find info on the weight of my OEM flywheel? Been trying to look that up and can't find it anywhere.

 

Hey, what about the AMS RhinoPac clutch kit? Anyone have experience with this? Think it's what I'm going to go with:
More Information for AMS AUTOMOTIVE 08026SR100

 

LUK is good.

Exedy is better though. Just grab their flywheel as well. Also install a rear main seal while you are in the area.
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renyay pretty much took the words right out of my mouth. I'm not exactly up to speed with all the lingo you guys use on this site but i've been, reading, watching youtube videos, and skimming the forum to try and get up to speed. i recently made a similar post in the 2006-2015 civic forum and two users suggested i get the exedy oe clutch and with the oe flywheel as well. pretty sure that's what i'm going to go with.

what is this rear main seal business? also what's a good price to get a clutch installed? i would do it myself, but i don't have the equipment also i've never dropped a tranny myself so it's probably best i get some help. any feedback is greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

The rear main seal is the seal that goes around the crankshaft, where the flywheel bolts are inserted into the crankshaft. It seals the engine oil from flying out.

You would need to drop the transmission and remove the clutch if it were to start leaking. It's a good preventative measure to change it while you are 'in the area,' it'd be a bummer if you just changed your clutch and you end up having to change it again because your RMS started leaking.

Also, if it starts leaking, it will ruin your new clutch disk.

#22 in this diagram.

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...k-oil-pan.html