What's up guys 1999 civic dx ls swap b18a1 (gsr trans stock clutch) , so to make a long story short I pulled my e brake one day and the cabels and hardware came apart under the console , w.e I had no time as I was going to work to correct it so I parked my car on a slight hill , left it in first gear.. came back 8 hours later clutch felt really tight , pulled out the parking spot and clutch pedal went completly dead (stuck to the floor) . I suspected the slave cylinder cracked , it did , lost all clutch fluid .. replaced the slave with the slave from a 95 teg (brand new had to use the hook from the old slave there's a slight diffrence the new one was a diffrent design w.e) bled the system out with a friend everything was good drove the car home. Next day clutch felt spongy again pumped the pedal got a little stiffer ok w.e. on the highway tried to drop from 4th to 3rd , gears were all stuck , pulled the clutch out while cruising poped it back in a tried to drop to 3rd grinded and lost all pedal feeling , clutch was stuck on the floor again ... had to kick start the rest of the way home .. checked the slave and there was no leaks... fluid in master cylinder was topped off... bled it out again .. clutch engages and disengage fine but it feels harder to get into gear now.. sometimes it wont go into first from a dig ..What the **** is going on guys !!
p.s since I replaced the slave the clutch engages literally right after I release the pedal... before it was way further up and really aggressive, now it's spongy and only tight when the pedal is all the way down... any help is apreciated thank you for taking the time to read .

 

considering the low cost of a new setup, i would check up by your pedals. Your master cylinder for your clutch comes through the firewall, and if its leaking sometimes youll see it if you poke your head up by the pedals. Look where the plunger is on the base of the clicth pedal. If its all greasy up there, you know its bad.

​​​​​​considering how cheap a slave and master is, id go buy a new master and install it, and if your slave isnt verified fresh out the box brand new, get a new one of those. Install both at the same time and follow proper bleeding procedures. Theres a thread on here from not even a week ago discussing clutch bleeding. Might be on page 2 or 3 by now

 

Yep...what he said.. Because they are soo cheap, just get a new set. OR if you are that handy...you could take the two cyl apart and inspect the seals...and replace/rebuild them for like 5 bucks...

I have seen more than a few times where there are not even leaks to the outside. There can be a bad seal and it will suck in air...

The other thing that I have seen is a bad seal from a master or slave sitting on the shelf too long...The seal can get dried out inside from sitting and the first time it moves, it takes a little tiny piece out of the seal. This makes it so a tiny amount of fluid bypasses and the pedal feels spongy. This causes all kinds of weird release problems. They can also be intermittent depending on what actually happened inside.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys I apreciate it , so a little update.. slave I bought turned out to be bad , replaced it with a slave from autozone but it's for a 95+ teg and I have the obd0 ls think it's 92.. there's a slight diffrence but I managed to get it on (can anyone confirm they are compatible?) .. anyways I bled the system out again went for a little drive about 30 mins in on the freeway couldn't downshift into 3rd again, clutch grinded , and the pedal went completly dead again...another sad day as I had to drive back with no clutch took a look at the car when I got home fluid levels were all normal... No visible leaks from behind the firewall or from the slave/ master... any thoughts guys I'm so stumped.. another thing where the clutch line threads onto the slave I couldn't get all the threads over completly I figure it's because I used the later model 95+ slave.. could this be where air is being introduced ? There is about one or two threads showing but no visible leaks.. Thank you guys

 

Also.. would low fluid pressure (not fluid levels) cause the new slave to burst i really doubt the seals on the new one are bad but if it doesn't work tonight I'll take the slave apart... And another thing the first time the slave bursted and I lost fluid so it made sense the pedal went dead but the second time there was no leaks and I didn't not loose ANY fluid whatsoever.. I'm almost 100 percent positive it is not leaking from the master cylinder / behind the firewall and when I bleed the clutch I bleed for 20-30 mins and literally get no feeling at all in the pedal.. Pretty sure I'm bleeding it right too ..

 

Check that the push rod from the pedal to the cylinder is properly adjusted so the cylinder piston comes all the way back to its internal stop when the clutch pedal is not pressed. If it is not that, the seal inside the master cylinder that makes it build pressure is bad, so replace master cylinder.

You should be buying parts that properly fit your car rather than trying to make others fit.

 

I get that , but everywhere I looked it says there compatible 91-2000 but they're clearly slight diffrences... which is why i asked if theyre compatible here.. And I couldn't find one for 91-94 seems like theres only 95+ aftermarket ? Not like I used a slave from a Toyota Camry 🙄 Anyways the fitment that attaches the clutch line to the slave doesn't thread flush and that's why it's leaking so I'm just going to look for a clutch line and replace the whole thing since it's flanged... hopefully it all works out.

 

You need a copper (or aluminum) washer to seal where the end of the hose threads into the slave cylinder.

 

I attached a new clutch line and it worked way better but now it's dead again , so it does need the washers ?

 

You still have yet to replace master cylinder, which is almost certainly causing the problem.

The new hose should have come with a seal washer.

 

return the autozone POS slave
buy the correct gsr slave on rockauto.com
buy a new master while your on rockauto
wait a few days for parts to land at your door
do both cyls at the SAME TIME
bleed system
drive another 150k and not post about this issue again
good luck OP

 

Eventhough rickauto is great, and i have used them.
I would get exedyusa clutch and slave cylinder. You can get both shipped for under $35..

 

Update , put in a new master , new lines , new slave, bled out.. drove around for 20 mins and car wouldn't go into reverse at all , just grinds.. and now first is getting difficult to get into. I doubt it's the clutch , what else could it be?

 

Check the pedal push-rod adjustment. It is important that the piston in the master cylinder comes all the way back when the pedal is not pressed.

Generally a mechanical problem in the clutch itself would mean it would never de-clutch, not work for a while then stop. But stranger things have happened.

 

I just replace the CMC with a new one. I tried bleeding the line but no pressure. The peddle sticks to tje floor.
i tried evry known eay to bleed it known to man..
while my friend was pumping peddle. I notice the slave wasnt moving the fork. Im thinking it the slave itself. Should i go with my gut and replace the slave or should i buy a new CMC and Slave just in case it faulty

 

I just replace the CMC with a new one. I tried bleeding the line but no pressure. The peddle sticks to tje floor.
i tried evry known eay to bleed it known to man..
while my friend was pumping peddle. I notice the slave wasnt moving the fork. Im thinking it the slave itself. Should i go with my gut and replace the slave or should i buy a new CMC and Slave just in case it faulty

 

yes, you need to replace them together

 

Again, the push rod between the pedal and the master cylinder must be adjusted so that the MC piston comes all the way back when the pedal is up, or the system will not work properly.

If you open the bleeder with the pedal up, fluid should flow down from the reservoir and drip out of the bleeder. This is the first step in bleeding. The piston in the MC must be all the way back to let fluid leave the reservoir.

Then have your friend push the pedal down while the bleeder is open and hold it on the floor while you close the bleeder. Never move the pedal from down to up unless the bleeder is closed. The first few times he will probably need to pull it back up by hand.

If you have the system fully bled and there is still no pressure when the pedal is pressed, it's a bad master cylinder.

There is nothing to go wrong with the slave cylinder other than leaking. In other words unless it leaks it should work and doesn't need replacing.