I don't know why the quality is funky but This line was capped off on my last d16y7
Hey guys so I swapped another d16y7 into my civic a while back and I've been having this issue, I've been real busy and haven't beenable to check it out but I took a look and there's two vacuum lines coming out the intake one on the left and one on the right the engine I had before capped off where the right vacuum line is so now I got an extra line a CEL and shitty idle any ideas? I don't have the old intake I think it may be for cruise control idk but this engine is from a different year civic

 

Take and post picture.
then, google d16y7 vacuum diagram. Route the tube where it suppose to go.

 

Anytime the CEL comes on: pull the code(s) before you post. Or you're wasting everyone's time.

You don't even have to google. The vacuum diagram is on a sticker on the underside of the hood.

 

if your implying that I didn't bother to research and I'm wasting time don't post on munch thread I've done my research and read Honda tech every night before bed I've looked up diagrams and either it's for another intake or the diagrams all wack and i pulled the code it's for my iac I replaced it and still the same issue

 

Looks like it goes to the FPR.

 

so I seen a post a long time ago that I think you solved on the same issue and I believe you said to plug that line so I plugged it and reset my bat so my ecu can reboot but I'm idling at like 200rpm but when I'm gassing it feels fine so I'm gonna let the ecu reboot after driving on the freeway and see if ornate figures the situation out.

 

That line goes to the cruise control. If cruise control is removed from your car already, then just get a rubber cap and capped off at the manifold. You will have a vac leak if you left it open.
Follow the red vac line coming off the same port on the manifold, up to the firewall, then down to the cruise control unit.

 

What external instrument are you using to verify the engine is idling at 200rpm?
you need an external gauge or obd2 scan gauge to read REALTIME data. The stock cluster IS inaccurate. Once you can verify realtime data, you can move on to the next step if it is indeed idling very low.
has the idle adjustment screw been tampered with? Im talking about, both, throttle plate stopper screw AND the, not to be adjusted, idle screw located above the throttle body. Usually will have a plastic cap covering it..
if both has been tampered with, you have 2 choice. One, hit the junkyard and get a replacement throttle for the d16y7.
two, find and follow the idle learning/adjustment procedure..

 

well I bought the engine with 150k on it so I don't know exactly what's been done to it but I haven't tampered it myself but even if it's 200 or some off it's rediculously low it runs great tho but I may have to follow those steps you told me to check

 

This is why when you do a stock for stock swap-out of a bad engine, you should reuse the manifolds, sensors, etc from the old one because you know they work.

Throwing IACV code and not idling properly you have to troubleshoot the IACV circuit. Start with whether the correct harness plug is on it.

 

I'll keep that in mind thanks

 

oh also I should of said this before, before my line was capped I had my distributor cranked all the way up just to idle at 750, when I know that not correct now I capped it the car wants to idle properly but idle at around 300 with the distributor cranked all the way up is clear wrong I'll have to adjust the idle screws.

 

If it throws the IACV code as soon as you turn the key on, there is an ELECTRICAL PROBLEM.

DO NOT TURN THE SCREWS.

 

well I rebooted my ecu so I can see how the car panns out when I get to town in a little im gonna pull the codes and check it out thanks for the heads up

 

well same thing happened the cel came on and the car did the same as before even before I plugged the line so it may be electrical like you said i unplugged the vac and just gonna drive like that till I get a y8 manifold , thanks for the help