Attempted theft damage
Hi, I am new to the group. I have a 1994 CivicDX HB. Someone attempted to steal it today. They did a lot of damage that I am trying to figure out what I need and the a source for the parts. The main thing is the steering wheel appears to be locked and I cant unlock it. My key doesnt seem to fit in the ignition any more assuming they punched the lock or used one of those jiggler things. I can start the car using the key in the base of the ignition, starting the car didnt seem to free the wheel. There is a plastic ring that the wheel is sitting on, it seems like the lock is related to this part. That part was broken in half so part is on the car and the rest is in pieces on my floor. I think this is why the car wasnt stolen. seems like the wheel needs to come off, but hesitant to do that because of the air bag... can anyone help?
Remove the two M8 bolts that hold the lock mechanism to the column. These have breakaway heads so you'll need to drill them out, cut slots, or drive with a punch to unscrew. Usually they are not very tight though. With that taken off, the wheel should turn freely. If it does not you'll need to remove the wheel and find other problem.
Consult the FSM for safe air bag removal procedure.
Consult the FSM for safe air bag removal procedure.
Okay I found the part in a video. Its called a clock spring, or in Honda lingo a Cable Reel. The one in my car is split in half. I read that it powers items on the steering wheel, all though nothing I see says it powers the steering lock. Anyonr know if it does? Also. I can find one for a 92-95 DX, I assume LX, EX, SI would work I would just have empty connectors?
I am freaked out about removing the air bag. I have read that you disconnect the battery then you have to wait for air bag to discharge, but I have seen any where from 3 minutes to 1 hour... anyone know the right amount of time?
I am freaked out about removing the air bag. I have read that you disconnect the battery then you have to wait for air bag to discharge, but I have seen any where from 3 minutes to 1 hour... anyone know the right amount of time?
Read the FSM on how to R&R the air bag. Don't trust any secondhand instructions from forum posters.
The cable reel completes electrical circuits for the horn, air bag, and cruise control buttons (if equipped) but isn't involved in the key lock. Of course if it is physically broken, it could jam and prevent the wheel from turning.
The cable reel completes electrical circuits for the horn, air bag, and cruise control buttons (if equipped) but isn't involved in the key lock. Of course if it is physically broken, it could jam and prevent the wheel from turning.
Sorry, FSM? I dont have any owners or shop manuals for this car. I need to look at it closer when I get home, I need a Cable Reel regardless, and I assume a new ignition assembly...
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Ok, I have consulted a manual... The manual for mine says nothing about waiting after the battery is disconnected. It does however mention closing the circuit with the "Short Connector (Red)". Im not near the car now, but does anyone know where that is on the car? do I have to buy one? the manual makes it look like its stored in the steering wheel where the airbag connector is...
Luckily It was where it was supposed to be. I am going to attempt pulling off the wheel tonight or tomorrow. I know I need a cable reel for sure. Can someone tell me where the steering wheel actually locks? is it something on the ignition assembly? Is it on the Cable Reel? my wheel is still locked. I know how to tug on the side with less resistance, but that requires a key. I have noticed that my ignition cylinder must also be damaged because when my key is in it only beeps intermittently... trying to figure out if I need a new assembly? or just the cylinder.
The part that mounts the key cylinder and ignition switch to the column. When you turn the key to lock it has a steel dog that moves out into the column and locks the shaft. As I said before, if you remove the whole thing by removing the two "nonremovable" bolts, the wheel should turn freely.
Ok, Yeah I re-read that after I posted... in looking at parts I see people selling the cable reel for LX,EX and SI its part number is 77900 SR3 A81 where the part number for my DX cable reel is 77900 SR3 A01 Do you know if there is an actual difference? I would assume its wired for the extra stuff an EX has like cruise control?, it should would work for a DX right?
Last edited by crazygut; Jun 30, 2017 at 01:33 PM.
Being a Civic DX, I believe you should only have the 3 post steering wheel with air bag.
The 4 post with cruise control and air bag I believe was from the Si Hatchback.
The clock spring/cable reel is different for the two if my memory serves me correctly.
I think due to the cruise control as well as horn running through the reel.
If I remember the SI reel won't fit the 3 post steering wheel.
Correction, the srs DX is a 4 spoke but no cruise control. I am not sure the Si clock spring fits the DX clock spring hub and wheel.
Unfortunately my research was regarding non srs steering wheels including the rare 92 Si 4 spoke cruise control no SRS steering wheel.
You will want to research clock springs to see if you can utilize the Si SRS clock spring in your DX no cruise steering hub.
The 4 post with cruise control and air bag I believe was from the Si Hatchback.
The clock spring/cable reel is different for the two if my memory serves me correctly.
I think due to the cruise control as well as horn running through the reel.
If I remember the SI reel won't fit the 3 post steering wheel.
Correction, the srs DX is a 4 spoke but no cruise control. I am not sure the Si clock spring fits the DX clock spring hub and wheel.
Unfortunately my research was regarding non srs steering wheels including the rare 92 Si 4 spoke cruise control no SRS steering wheel.
You will want to research clock springs to see if you can utilize the Si SRS clock spring in your DX no cruise steering hub.
not sure how to research it other than ask. there are 2 part numbers. but they look identical in size and shape. I assume the plug for the EX.LX has an extra pin in it... Its the difference of 300$ for the dx one (new if I can find it) and 80$ dollars for the LX EX one used... i guess I need to goto pick and pull this weekend...
Pick and pull would be your best option.
You could be right and it's just not wired for cruise vs wired for cruise.
But could also be a fitment issue too.
Best to be sure before buying new.
You could be right and it's just not wired for cruise vs wired for cruise.
But could also be a fitment issue too.
Best to be sure before buying new.
In the parts catalogs, they use the same image for the part. theres a line for 77900 SR3 A01 and a line for 77900 SR3 A81 they both say #1 next to them though... I have a picture of the Si version one of the plugs. I will compare it to mine when I take it off this weekend.
What none of that tells you is sizing differences.
I was able to source the non SRS Si steering wheel and I was gathering the parts to convert what was my old 95 Civic CX HB with no SRS. What I learned is the Si SRS clock spring would not fit the steering wheel even though it had all the functionality I needed for the cruise control. So in my case I need that very specific clock spring to get cruise in the car without SRS.
Based on that, I am suggesting you spend a day at pick and pull and pull the clock spring from an Si and take it to a DX in the yard and see if the fitment is right.
The plugs will almost assuredly work, the fitment into the hub and or steering wheel may or may not. Even though I did catch wind in recent searches there is a Type II srs and Type III srs, as such, that too could play a role in your fitment and/or plugs. I have no clue what year the Type III came available....
Once you know it fits, you could then buy new (for longevity) and not be worried about losing money on a part that doesn't fit.
Looking at the actual parts on ebay isn't too clear either if it's a direct fit:
EBAY 77900-sr3-a81

EBAY 77900-sr3-a01

The ebay links have a couple more pictures for each one. Still difficult to tell if the fastener holes line up, and you can't tell if the diameters are the same for each part.
I was able to source the non SRS Si steering wheel and I was gathering the parts to convert what was my old 95 Civic CX HB with no SRS. What I learned is the Si SRS clock spring would not fit the steering wheel even though it had all the functionality I needed for the cruise control. So in my case I need that very specific clock spring to get cruise in the car without SRS.
Based on that, I am suggesting you spend a day at pick and pull and pull the clock spring from an Si and take it to a DX in the yard and see if the fitment is right.
The plugs will almost assuredly work, the fitment into the hub and or steering wheel may or may not. Even though I did catch wind in recent searches there is a Type II srs and Type III srs, as such, that too could play a role in your fitment and/or plugs. I have no clue what year the Type III came available....
Once you know it fits, you could then buy new (for longevity) and not be worried about losing money on a part that doesn't fit.
Looking at the actual parts on ebay isn't too clear either if it's a direct fit:
EBAY 77900-sr3-a81

EBAY 77900-sr3-a01

The ebay links have a couple more pictures for each one. Still difficult to tell if the fastener holes line up, and you can't tell if the diameters are the same for each part.
Last edited by TomCat39; Jun 30, 2017 at 03:26 PM.
i have an extra clock spring like that, came out of 95 integra gs-r.
thought it was bad but turned out to be a loose connection. d'oh! 8(
all continuity tests good.
you pay shipping and it's yours. pm for details. cheers...
thought it was bad but turned out to be a loose connection. d'oh! 8(
all continuity tests good.
you pay shipping and it's yours. pm for details. cheers...
Still stuck. Had to take the wheel off. regardless to replace the clock spring. I got another ignition and slotted my old one to get it off. I removed all the wires from my old on and just used the new housing instead of trying to find disconnect and reconnect everything on the harness... I hooked everything back up and its got battery power. I can turn it over with the cylinder at the end of the ignition assembly. I still cant unlock the wheel. and the Key does not move from the off position... Im out of ideas... anyone??
If you don't have the cylinder holder bolted to the column, the wheel should never lock. It should be pretty clear to see how it works when it is unbolted-- as you turn the key, the locking dog will extend and retract.
You don't have to take the wires off of the switch just take the two screws out to detach the whole plastic switch part from the metal cylinder holder part.
You don't have to take the wires off of the switch just take the two screws out to detach the whole plastic switch part from the metal cylinder holder part.
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