Guys, I am at my wits end. I have read almost every Idle related post on Honda-Tech, Eric the car guy, and every other Honda related forum that I could Google and still cannot figure this out. It all started when my brakes went out completely due to rusted brake lines. I got under there and it was a mess. Replaced the brake lines and all the fuel lines as well. Took it out for a test drive and the brakes worked fine but car was stumbling and running rough. Pulled out a plug and they were drenched in oil. Replaced the four O-rings under the racker arm stand and the valve cover gasket. Here is a list of things ive switched/replaced/ tried.
Set valve lash (twice, its perfect).
Distributor.
New cap, rotor, plugs, wires.
Cleaned EGR ports
Cleaned and switched EGR valve.
PCV valve.
Tried 6 different IACVs. They all work, they click and drop idle when plug removed.
Disassembled and cleaned FITV.
Tried another throttle body today.
Tried multiple MAP sensors.
Switched both ECT sensors.
Bled coolant so many times I cant count.
Switched injectors.
Switched Main Relay
Switched ECUs
Switched external coil
Switched resistor box.
Both 02 sensors are new
No CEL's


Im so frustrated and lost and confused and ready to throw in the towel.
Ive tried bringing it to 3000 rpm until the fans kick inn, then letting it drop and idle at approx 1k. It idles perfect. As soon as I take it for a drive and go three blocks, I pull up to a stop and idle drops and dies.

Im open for any ideas.
Anyone that helps me solve this will have my eternal and undying gratitude.

 

My guess is a weak fuel pump, given everything else you've done, or the camshaft position sensor . Scotty Kilmer has a YouTube video "Fixing a car that randomly dies while driving" and another one "Fixing a car that shuts off randomly" Take a look and see what you think. You can borrow a fuel pressure tester from a lot of auto parts store for free.

 

disconnect the upstream oxygen sensor and egr valve connectors and warm it up and see if it tries dying...yes it will throw codes but it should still run fine...if it still does it, pick up a fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight for $20 and hook it up and lay the hood gently on it with the gauge facing you in the car and drive it and see if fuel pressure drops off when it dies

 

Thank you guys, Ill try these things. Fuel pump was one of the things I had been considering as well.

 

I tried disconnecting the upstream 02 sensor and EGR sensor and the motor wouldnt even stay running once I started it. I connected the 02 sensor and left the EGR sensor disconnected but did the same thing. Its kind of weird, I warmed the engine up good but my lower radiator hose feels cold? I have tried two different thermostats. Could it possibly be collapsed internally? Im just wondering if this is something related to the ECT which may still be thinking my motor is cold?

 

So guys, like you suggested I got a HF fuel pressure guage set ($16 with the memorial day 25% off discount), at idle its right around 37-40 lbs. Is that about the correct fuel pressure for a 1996 Accord f22b2? I can see the pressure does NOT drop off as the car idles down and dies, in fact it goes up a little to 40. At least Im pretty confident its not a fuel problem. So I am still really so sick of messing with this thing. Seems like ive been working on this issue for 3 months worth of weekends and its been consuming my life. I just want it driveable again. Now im paranoid to drive it just imagining it dying everytime I pull up to a stoplight or stop sign.
I have a question. In a cold state it doesnt die. My assumption is at this point the FITV is doing its job. As soon as its warm, the problem starts. Isnt the FITV then just supposed to hand off the job to the IACV? Ive tried like 5 different ones, solenoids click, idle drops when the IACV plug is removed, they cant all be bad.
Why after three minutes of driving, the moment the car gets warm is it idling down and dying at a stop?
Im going to try to get another ICM at the junkyard today. Ive tried two dizzys and swithced ICM between them, but no luck. This really sucks.

Any ideas famalam?

 

You can subscribe to www.alldatadiy.com for about $30 for a year and get the dealer-level shop manual information on your exact car, including all specs on pressures etc. The fact that it does it once it gets warm may either mean that one of the temperature sensors is bad, or it is just coincidental that the fuel pump starts to slow down after three minutes because it is old and weak. You can see the exact location and part number of all of the sensors on alldatadiy.com And if it was me, I would still pull one at a junkyard to test it.

 

Since this started when you replaced the brake lines there has to be something you bumped or touched that's been damaged in some fashion.

Exacty what fuel pipes did you replace ?

FUEL PIPE (1) for 1996 Honda ACCORD SEDAN

The oxygen sensor wiring might run down there, it's possible there's a wire that's open internally.