00 Em1 havent used it in 6 months. Went to start it and got a chug chug dead. Went to restart all I got was cranking with no start. Ran a bunch of spark tests and fuel and found it to be a bad coil. Replaced the coil. Drove for maybe 30 miles in the course of 2 days and on way home it died, crank no start. When I recheck the fuel and spark and "IF" I find it to be the coil again, what should I start to look at as to why the coil keeps dying?
I had a similar issue a few years back where the ICU kept frying. I would put a new one in, get one start and then the ICU is fried. I ended up replacing the whole dizzy after a few ICU replacements and that solved the ICU from frying. I dont know if its just a coincidence or related to the entire dizzy again. Thanks.

 

how do you test for spark?
some methods can easily fry or damage the coil.
high energy ignition spark testers are cheap
so grab one and an ohm meter if needed.

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

 

Have a digital Fluke and I use an HEI spark tester.

Test each individual plug wire first.
Tested dizzy cap
Then checking to see if I have spark at coil and ICU
Testing switching signal to ICU ( this is where my probe light up telling me coil was bad )

I dont think I'm testing it wrong. I put in the new coil and the car ran for 30 miles then stalled. I have to check tomorrow what went down. But if it is in fact a dead coil again, what can I look at that is killing it?

 

It's more than likely the ICU. Believe it or not, that actually goes out more than the coil itself. People just tend to replace the entire distributor assuming it's the internal ignition coil.

 

So I reran the tests this morning.

1) No spark at plug wires.
2) No spark at dizzy cap.
3) No spark at coil.
4) No spark at secondary.
5) Checked coil ohms for .6 to .8 reading and received .7
6) Checked secondary and positive on coil and received 17.74k ohms
7) Checked with light probe to make sure it flashes during start to test if ignitor is sending signal ( yesterday it flashed, so I changed out coil. after it died yesterday, during todays recheck, I was getting a light but no flashing ).
8) Took in 3 ignitors to store for testing all passed ( tried 2 of them back in dizzy and all I got was crank, no start ).

Ive been reading about proper temperature for testing coil, Im here in Florida where its been close to 90* Ill take it out and pop in fridge for a little to bring temp down and retest, but if passes test, anyone have any ideas?
Edit: AFter putting in fridge and retesting. I received reading of .7 and 17.42 Still both within specs.

Also I checked my engine codes and Im getting a code 22 VTEC pressure valve. I dont think this should be keeping it from starting should it?

 

Checked all the fuses, and not just for a blown one, but corrosion also.

 

Check ECU. Had this problem 2 weeks ago with our 93 civic. Would crank but wouldn't start. Replace all the usual parts, still wouldn't start.
pulled the ECU found a burnt spot on the circuit board

 

After checking other various things out, said the hell with it, bought a new dizzy and its running.

 

dont toss old dizz it's loaded with good parts.

Advanced Ignition Troubleshooting - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra