Hey guys and gals, ive been having issues with this car a while. Its a 98 civic hatch with the d16 in it. The fuel pump relay isn't getting any battery power but is getting ignition power. It started where my fuel pump stopped turning on so I replaced the pump thinking that. It worked for a whopping 3 miles then died on me again. It cranks but doesn't turn over and fuel pump doesn't come on. I went to advanced and picked up a relay and it turned on then died on me again. Then it stopped working all together not even a little. So then I got a new working ecu and hooked that up and still nothing. I tested the connectors on the relay and the fuel pump turns on when I jump 5 and 7 but not 1 and 7. When I jump the fuel pump on the car still won't turn over like the injectors aren't working. It has a new alternator, new plugs, wires and fuel pump along with battery. All the fuses were checked and none are blown. I just need some help figuring this thing out please!

 

Is this the PGM-FI main relay? What steps did you take to arrive at the conclusion that the relay isn't getting battery power but does get ignition power?

 

Yes that's the relay and I used a multi-meter to test the pins on the relay.

 

I don't think there is any pin on the relay that is supposed to be live all the time from the battery. They are all ignition circuits. The ECU grounds a wire to close the relay. If the whole ECU is not powering up, the relay is not going to close. Do the oil, battery and check engine lights come on when you turn key on but don't crank? Check the ground wires on the thermostat, ECU will not work without them. Find a schematic, it will show which fuse and circuit feeds each pin.

 

The ignition was on when I tested the pins for power. Pins 1 and 5 are supposed to have power when on and pin 1 does not have power for me. All the lights come on and the check engine light stays on. I checked all the grounds and they are all good.

 

The ECU typically grounds the negative "leg" of the relay to activate the fuel pump. Nissan's have a dedicated fuel pump relay, however I'm pretty sure Honda's run several circuits through the main relay. Do you have access to another main relay to swap to see if it solves the problem? Most of the funny wiring/running issues I've ran into on the 11 Civic's I've owned were the main relay or bad connection at the bundle of the ground wires attaching to the thermostat housing. One car would run fine but then refuse to start occasionally after it was shut off, I ended up having to strip the wires back, solder them together, and attach a new "eye terminal" where it bolted to the thermostat housing.
I actually zip tie my main relay under the dash where it is easier to get to, and carry a spare. The EF-EK series are getting to be pretty old and it could be time for a new relay any time now.

 

Yes I put a new relay in the car and still nothing

 

Got volt meter?
The ECU should ground the relay, you could check the pin-out to see if it is. When the car is first turned on, the pump should run for about 5 seconds and then stop if the engine isn't started.
I have seen this portion of the ECU get damaged and not work anymore, and the cars owner had to piggyback a separate relay to another circuit to kick on the fuel pump.

 

I have similar issues but on a 95 Prelude.... my check engine light don't turn on at all. I have no power at the fuel pump or the main relay. I replace both and as well as my ECU. I have power at both my fuel and ECU fuses under the dash. All wires are connected and the ground that I keep hearing about from the thermostat I cant find .. I know the main one from the battery to the frame and block is connected as well as the one from the valve cover to the body is too. Where is that ground coming from??

 

I replaced the ecu and then tested the new one by grounding the pin and still nothing. Its not the ground. The relay itself isn't getting battery power.

 

These cars are pushing 20 years old. Possibly something wrong with the ignition or car harness?
I would suggest trying to power the relay from another source, maybe even add a relay to a source that is working with +12v with the key in RUN to supply power to your fuel pump relay. Kind of a Band-Aid but I'm at a loss for what's wrong otherwise.