so there are two issues ive been experiencing with my boosted motor: smokes some times and the engine just cuts out.
ive done a compression test and leak down test to see if the motor is healthy but the results from my leak down are a little bothersome but ill do another test to see if i get the same numbers.
compression: cold / warm
cyl 1) 148/149
cyl 2) 150/150
cyl 3) 150/150
cyl 4) 150/149

leak down: pressure into cylinder set to 75psi. as you know the number has to be within 10% of the base number.
cyl 1) 69
cyl 2) 70
cyl 3) 72
cyl 4) 69

i cleaned out my oil catch can has a 6 port setup: 2 go to the back of the block and 4 come from the valve cover. the catch can had about 1 cup or more of captured oil vapors, which can cause the engine to exhaust smoke out of the exhaust pipe. the color of the smoke is like a whitish blue, its kind of hard to describe its color mainly because im in the car when it happens and im unable to get out to see it come out of the exhaust pipe itself. im not losing water and its not going into my oil but i could be burning oil since im just using regular conventional oil (valvoline 10w-30) until i hit 2k miles to switch to synesthetic. i notice the smoke from a hard pull from a stop light or just driving into a parking lot looking for a place to park my car. im not sure as to what is going on with my motor as to why it smokes.

among the other issue my car likes to shut off randomly as well. i do plan on installing a fuel pressure sensor to see if im dropping fuel pressure before it dies out to see if its my pump and i have not done a datalog to see what could be causing it. i cleaned my iacv and my timing is set correctly but i cant figure out what is making it shut off. my tuner did adjust the HVEC (i think thats the name of it in hondata, sorry i cant remember it off hand) but its almost max out. my car is fully tuned to my setup but my tuner did a few pulls on the dyno so i can drive it and put miles on the motor before i get a full tune. i already replaced the spark plugs before and theyre gapped at .025 and the stock number of the ngk is 4554. im not running a stock ignition setup either, i have the send it racing ICM bypass, summit racing ignition box, with a msd cap and rotor, b16 dizzy and crane cam fireball external coil. the symptoms before it dies goes as follows. before approaching a stop sign/light and going into neutral to coast to a stop, the vehicle will die at times. from a hard pull and coming to stop it can die as well. once it died just from idling at a light for no apparent reason. i would just see it lean out and the rpm just struggle to stay and drop to 0. any ideas?

setup:
95 gsr
84mm cp pistons
manley turbo tuff robs
GE sleeved block o-ring
itr cams
send it racing icm bypass, summit racing ignition box, crane cam external coil with a msd cap and rotor
walbro 255lph (had it for about 5 years or so)
1000cc precision injectors
ngk blue spark wires
ngk spark plugs stock number 4554 (i want to say they are brek8)
STC predator turbo water/oil cooled

 

Sounds like tuning issue with possible tip-in enrichment from the 1000cc Low z Rochester/Lucas injectors. May want to look at the injector dead times for it. This seems more injector related.

 

ive been pondering the thought of getting new injectors since mine are used and im not sure as when they were purchased originally. maybe injector dynamics this time around when i buy NEW! ive also notice like a slight popping sound from my exhaust when idling some times as if it skipped a beat (maybe wrong explanation of words but thats all i can think of at the moment). to be clear, your comment is response to the entire issues at hand or just the fact that its dying randomly?

 

Who did you have tune your car? I would not trust many shops in the San Antonio/Austin area...

 

the same guy that ive known and have been tuning this car from NA to turbo that ive known for about 13 years. the car has a lot of power on the top end but i trust my tuner and his abilities to be quite honest. my tuner is in new braunfels which is outside of san antonio, thats not to say we have bad tuners in my area either.

 

Man you have a very nice list of quality parts then you are still using old precision injectors. That's some old technology and you would greatly benefit from upgrading to a modern ev14 style injector like id1000s. Can you even idle at 14.7-1afr with those injectors? With my id1000s I can lean my idle out to 17.5-1 afr and it will still purr like a kitten although I target ~15.3-1 afr for idle and cruise and get almost 30 mpg in town. If I were you I'd upgrade the most important part of your fuel setup and get some quality injectors and enjoy a better running car with better gas mileage.

 

Mainly all of the issues at hand, but in particular, the last part of the car itself dying out.

And, so that you feel better, I'm at 880cc on my Siemen Dekas and I won't switch them out for another set. They're perfectly fine as they are. I'll clean them up and reinstall them as they are.

 

yeah there some old id admit that. my idle does hover around 13.9-14.7 iirc but some times itll drop below that, not often but some times. ive been thinking about getting new injectors and ive seen them (ID injectors) for a fair price. i might just go ahead and get those. thanks for the compliments on my build, its appreciated! when i do replace those injectors im going to order a new fuel rail from golden eagle, since theyll give me a deal on it, and look for a electronic fuel pressure sensor that wont poke my eyes out.

 

the problem with your car randomly dying and cutting out sounds like what was happening to me when my map sensor was going bad, i didn't find out until eventually it took a total dump on me and the car wouldn't even start fuel pressure dropped then raised and flooded the engine, i changed that out and it went back to normal.
as for burning oil, are you sure you're not overfilling it srs?
the oil should be halfway between the two dots, if you add oil to the top dot thinking its low you will just burn it off, and you will repeat the cycle thinking you're low,

 

i may buy a back up map sensor, its a omnipower map sensor and as for the oil....i havent checked it yet sadly. just been busy and lazy from work.

 

I'm sorry, but it wasn't until these Hondata / Omnipower Aftermarket OEM location MAP sensors were released over the years, that even considering a MAP sensor going bad was a major part of a DDXing (Diagnosis) a major problem with the engine not running.

I'm now officially showing my age.

 

do you think i should look into getting a replacement on that? i mean there like $90 bucks

 

what are you tuned on? it would be quite obvious the map sensor is the problem if you datalog while driving, because the inputs will be going crazy when the car acts up, for example it might read boost at idle and inject that much fuel and flood the engine and cause it to die and cut off, then out of nowhere it will read correctly until it decides to act up again.

 

I'd wait to see if what mrsteezy says happens before investing in a new map sensor. I don't know if you're using a 3BAR or 4Bar Map sensor. I know that Hondata S300 can allow for several voltage signals for different map sensors. Me? I like GM 3 and 4 bar map sensors. They may not be as "factory look", but I know I'll never have to touch them again.

 

ill get some datalog tomorrow while i take my car for a drive, im running s300 with a 3 bar omnipower map sensor.

mrsteezy? who dat be?

 

in that case you can tell yourself, just use the mobile app, drive the car and once it start to cut off and act up, read the map sensor input through the app and make sure it matches what your mechanical boost gauge says (if you have one) if not then just look out for the obvious (being the map reading boost while idling or low load, or super high vacuum while in throttle.
if its off then that's your problem.

 

im on s300 v1 no bluetooth need to ride around with the laptop doing the logging