1995 honda civic ex won't run cold.
car won't start when engine is cold. but after spraying starter fluid into throttle body several times it starts and runs perfect with no problem. replaced fuel pump and fuel filter due to cold start problem. plus main fuel relay with no change.
car runs smooth with a steady idle. A bad IACV will cause hard starts but car will have a ruff idle. I believe in my case this may not be the problem. But thanks for the info I appreciate the help my friend.
Trending Topics
- Any check engine lights?
- How are your engine grounds? Specially, G101 on the thermostat.
- How's your fuel pressure?
- What's your Battery Voltage?
- Are you spark plug gaps within spec?
- What's the condition of your cap and rotor contacts?
1- No check engine lights.
2- Engine grounds cleaned and tight with no breaks or frail wires.
3- testing fuel pressure on Saturday and will post results.
4- battery is new and voltage is 13.4 more or less.
5- spark plugs are current NGK gaped at 44 as per factory sticker under the hood.
6- cap and rotor in good condition. Had a full tune up done 5 1/2 months ago.
checking fuel pressure and performing a cold and hot compression test on Saturday. Will be posting results as soon as possible. Hopefully someone has had this problem before and can give me an idea of my problem. I hope this helps and Thanks for the input on this. Goodone to ya...
2- Engine grounds cleaned and tight with no breaks or frail wires.
3- testing fuel pressure on Saturday and will post results.
4- battery is new and voltage is 13.4 more or less.
5- spark plugs are current NGK gaped at 44 as per factory sticker under the hood.
6- cap and rotor in good condition. Had a full tune up done 5 1/2 months ago.
checking fuel pressure and performing a cold and hot compression test on Saturday. Will be posting results as soon as possible. Hopefully someone has had this problem before and can give me an idea of my problem. I hope this helps and Thanks for the input on this. Goodone to ya...
Check the mechanical and ignition timing, too. If you find the ignition timing is off, make sure to jump the service connector before adjusting. Otherwise the ECU will counter the distributor rotation.
The fact that it needs starter fluid to start but runs after means that it's getting air, fuel, and spark but that the ratios or timing sequences are off.
Or, it could be that compression is bad as others have said.
"6- cap and rotor in good condition. Had a full tune up done 5 1/2 months ago."
I had a no name o'reilly's cap and rotor foul out on me in about a year so it's best to check and be certain.
The fact that it needs starter fluid to start but runs after means that it's getting air, fuel, and spark but that the ratios or timing sequences are off.
Or, it could be that compression is bad as others have said.
"6- cap and rotor in good condition. Had a full tune up done 5 1/2 months ago."
I had a no name o'reilly's cap and rotor foul out on me in about a year so it's best to check and be certain.
cold compression - cyl -1 94 psi cyl- 2 125 psi cyl- 3 125 psi cyl - 4 125 psi
hot compression - cyl 1 125 psi cyl- 2 125 psi cyl- 3 125 psi cyl- 4 125 psi
p.s.- plug gap is 1.1 factory and plugs are gaped at 1.1
spark plugs good and clean. fuel pressure is 44 psi- pump good.
but now pump won't prime untill car is warm. Once warm all works normal. pump primes car runs super steady and strong. timing not an issue and t - belt has less than 10000 miles on it.
spark plug wires seemed a little dry rotted and I will be replacing them. I'm leaning towards a bad sensor( temp) or a choke problem. please help.
Throwing parts at this is just not worth it. Car is in great shape but parts are expensive.
hot compression - cyl 1 125 psi cyl- 2 125 psi cyl- 3 125 psi cyl- 4 125 psi
p.s.- plug gap is 1.1 factory and plugs are gaped at 1.1
spark plugs good and clean. fuel pressure is 44 psi- pump good.
but now pump won't prime untill car is warm. Once warm all works normal. pump primes car runs super steady and strong. timing not an issue and t - belt has less than 10000 miles on it.
spark plug wires seemed a little dry rotted and I will be replacing them. I'm leaning towards a bad sensor( temp) or a choke problem. please help.
Throwing parts at this is just not worth it. Car is in great shape but parts are expensive.
Fuel pump won;t rime means it won't start. Starting fluid doesn't help that, but it you keep fooling around until the ECU decides to boot up and work, it may make you think it did.
When it won't start, turn key on and don't crank, the CEL should come on, pump prime, then CEL goes out. If the CEL comes on and stays on, and you're sure the main relay is good, that is usually a bad ECU.
The spec for compression is 135 psi minimum (hot).
When it won't start, turn key on and don't crank, the CEL should come on, pump prime, then CEL goes out. If the CEL comes on and stays on, and you're sure the main relay is good, that is usually a bad ECU.
The spec for compression is 135 psi minimum (hot).
If this works i will be using this as experience for the next troubleshooting . Thanks my friend.
The TW sensor won't stop the fuel pump from priming. If the ECU doesn't do the boot up where it primes the fuel pump and turns the CEL off, nothing else matters.
Also, of course, EFI engines do not have a choke.
Also, of course, EFI engines do not have a choke.
What I meant was an air fuel imbalance. i.e. air fuel mixture.
Chokes are usually found on carburetors.
My bad for the misunderstanding.
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