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No problems with the car other than the front subframe rust, pass side only.
Looks like only the rear beam needs to be replaced.
Any tips on replacing the rear beam?
Did you find a solution to this problem? Many people, including myself have this same issue with the rusted frame on the Honda Accord. Any fix for this?
Is that part pictured replaceable or is it part of the frame?
Last edited by 2hisownAccord; Aug 23, 2018 at 02:48 PM.
Reason: needed to add question about frame and part shown in image
Did you find a solution to this problem? Many people, including myself have this same issue with the rusted frame on the Honda Accord. Any fix for this?
Is that part pictured replaceable or is it part of the frame?
Just a heads-up to forum members: after a bunch of back and forth with Honda Canada I had the subframe (rear beam) replaced at no cost at a dealer garage on my 2002 SE. The work included all parts and labour except for the alignment, which I had to pay for.
I don't know what the chances are of this being replicated, but in my correspondence and discussions with their reps, I consistently stated that it left an otherwise mint and well maintained vehicle unsafe and usable, that the vehicle was a family car used to transport children, and if the situation wasn't resolved I would file a formal complaint with the Ministry of Transport citing all the threads floating around the internet clearly showing that the condition was the result of poor design and engineering creating an unsafe situation.
I'd found a mint subframe (must have just been replaced before the car was rear ended) at the pick and pull and was arranging a day off to pull it when I finally got the call saying they were going to do it as a one-time goodwill gesture. They mentioned the numerous generations of Accord purchased by my family as a reason for their largess...like I said, your mileage may vary, but at least worth a try.
I'm just buttoning up our 2000 accord after pulling the engine cradle for subframe rust. The new cradle is back in the car and all the PS lines hooked up. I had to replace both lines because galvanic corrosion had just about welded the fittings into the steering rack ... I had to persuade them off with a chisel. That video is helpful, but the part where they popped the lines off of the rack with almost zero effort made me laugh.
I went an alternative route, unhooking the pressure line at the PS pump and the return line where it transitions from a hose to a hard line at the top of the engine cradle. Once the cradle and rack were off the car and out in the open, I was able to get medieval with it.
Here's a pic of the rusty subframe.
I have had to do this on two seperate 98-02 Accords in Canada. On a rusty car this is a two day job for a lazy backyard mechanic working on jackstands.
Expect to replace the downpipe at the same time (you'll need new bolts and gaskets as both times the downpipe was also ripe from rust. The sway bar end links are also hard to remove without cutting on an old rusty car so I recommend you replace those as well. Easier to cut them off and replace them vs fighting them.
Last but not least, if you can, try to get a rust free subframe/front xmember assembly with a rust-free rack and pinion with lines, radius arms and sway bar. The power steering lines can be a pain when rust is involved so try to get them as well. Easier to buy a loaded Subframe.
Both times I bought subframes from pull a part in Georgia for a very cheap price. Removed it all myself and I took as many bolts as possible. The total cost was less than 100$ from pull a part. In Canada these subframes sell for well above 300$ and they are hard to find.
Now on both cars we just keep the subframe oiled up well in this area so it doesnt happen again. Also in the winter, when I run the front windshield defrost, the AC comes on automaticaly so I turn the AC off so it doesnt drip on the subframe in salty conditions. Salt=bad Salty water=verybad