Ok, I know I am going to get killed for asking this, but what Intake (tube/filter), headers, and exhaust produce the most HP on a stock B18C5. I've been researching and all old threads do not enable Dyno links to open anymore, so new information would be awesome, especially since technology is always changing. A little about me, I am NOT mechanically inclined, so all I feel comfortable with at the moment is I/H/E. If possible, please produce any data in HP numbers. I know a Dyno doesn't tell the whole story with HP output however Dyno numbers are better than nothing. Thanks for all your help

 

For a stock type r the bolt on's I would choose are:

intake= aem 3" itr cold air, go auto works 3" CAI or short ram..3" blox v stack filter

header=Whitfield performance b series header. If you don't want to spend $750 get a plm toda rep. You will want to get rid of the catalytic converter too.

Exhaust=thermal r&d 3"

i would get a skunk 70mm TB and port match it to the itr manifold, get some rdx injectors and a walbro 255 pump. All these parts won't do much without a proper tune so I would get hondata s300 too.

 

Moogen intake and hytech/toda/smsp header.

 

Leave the intake alone with the OEM air filter OR, a CT engineering direct drop in filter. Dont get caught up in the JDM bling SPOON air filter, that loses power and costs 100$+. A Toda racing header (most expensive) shows the most power throughout the RPM range. For a cheaper alternative, use a JDM 98' Spec header (which is still availible brand new in Japan) get it while you can until it will be discontinued!

 

Any proof that SPOON filters lose power?

 

I have an AEM 3 INCH cold air I'd be willing to swap for a OEM intake

 

That's what I was wondering lol.

 

Why? 5hp isn't going to really make any difference. And unless your car is a salvage title or something, all an intake does is hurt the value. And you're still going get waxed at the stoplight by a V6 Camry...

 

Just to keep the thread on topic. I am running a 96-97 spec engine, top fuel intake, skunk2 alpha header, custom test pipe to a Checkerdsports 2.75" exhaust. I put down 185 whp at 3740' above sea level.

 

Toda header, 3" exhaust, 3" Comptech intake, ID1000's, tuned on an S300 I made 197whp. Very basic setup but it seemed the ID1000's gave me a 5whp edge over just about everyone with the same mods, same motor, even same tuner. There's power in proper atomization... RDX injectors are a very nice upgrade that is similar to the ID1000's,

 

Aem 3" cold air intake with bpi velocity stack and k&n filter package, oem jdm itr 98spec 4-1 header>jdm oem itr cat>mugen b pipe>mugen twinloop exhaust. Everything else stock itr including stock ecu, made 174whp on a dynojet.

 

That's what I did with 00-0961. There was some sort of crusty old foam filter inside the Comptech icebox that came from the PO. Fortunately for me, an OEM air filter fits in the icebox.

Here's two things I don't like about the K&N style of filter: First, they don't work as well to keep harmful dust out of the combustion chamber. Have you ever looked for dust behind the filter? I have. And using that style of filter I have found dust residue in the airbox (or for the ITR, the intake tube). Using an OEM filter, I never find that same residue. So, I conclude that OEM filters are protecting my engines better than the oiled-cloth or oiled-foam filters.

Second, using that oil on your filter creates another problem for some fuel-injected engines. Some of that oil can deposit on the sensors that measure your air mass flow. The deposited oil can skew the calibration of the sensors. When that happens, your state of tune will be sub-optimal.

Cap

 

x2

 

Here's a contender...

Scott, who likes solutions that solve more than one problem...

 

Back in the day I had AEM 3 inch Cold Air Intake, DC sports 4-1 header (copy of JDM 4-1), custom testpipe, Buddy Club Spec 2, everything else stock. 176 whp on Dynojet with about 100,000 km on Odometer.

 

Best Intake: Mugen
Best Header: Toda (off the shelf), SMSP/Hytech (custom)
Best Exhaust: Anything 2.5" and stainless is preferred

The real bottleneck is the collector size on the stock header. Once you open that up to 2.5" and continue with a suitable exhaust then you are set. Going to a 3" exhaust is overkill on a stock motor IMO but I'm sure others will disagree. As for the intake, personally I'd leave the stock box, and make a custom up-pipe to replace the restrictive resonator in the fender well. You can avoid all that by buying a CT Engineering icebox (Comptech Icebox before the company changeover) as it puts a nice velocity stack behind the signal lens.

 

What he said^^

After owning my ITR for 16 years and searching forums for best setup and trying an AEM 3" intake with 4-1 DC sports header, and 2 1/4 exhaust, it felt restrictive. I switched it all out for a Mugen intake, Smsp race header 2.5", high flow cat, custom 2.5" b-pipe and DC5 2.5" mugen exhaust. I feel 2.5" is perfect with tune but borderline too big as it stands without a tune. I do produce good power even with just ajusting my fuel pressure and timing but i'm confident I'll get good gains on tuning. More than 2.5" is definately overkill for these N/A engines.

Good Luck!

 

does anyone know if you can use the arm v2 intake or is that not 3inch

 

I really like the look of the Tegiwa carbon-fiber knock off of the Mugen intake. Apparently it costs just over $400usd shipped to the USA straight from Tegiwa.

 

ok so i called aem the aem v2 is only 2.75.. is that too small ?