4/24 UPDATE: now I'm dealing with a no start issue.
things I have done:
Check all connections
Check all fuses
Clean the thermostat grounds
Move the valve ground to bat and frame "fixed all the clicking and buzzing
Replace distributor cap and rotor
Clean the plugs for now
Check the wires
Check for code NO CODES
Replace the main relay
Got a spare pr4 automatic ecu

Hello folks. i just got an 1990 Integra ls with a B20b swap with a pr4 ecu automatic has the b18a intake manifold. I'm having some problems the car starts fine today I let it idle for about 20-25 minutes till it reached operating temperature then I press the brake pedal then moved the shifter to Drive the car starts acting up the idle goes from 1000rmp to about 200rpm and it's stays there while the engine slowly it's dying after the engine dies the 200rpm goes to zero. The car re starts fine after it shuts off. But if I go to put it to Drive it does the same thing also as the same time I'm shifting the shifter to Drive a lot of the lights on the cluster start behaving erracting flashing on and off . Also I hear the A/T shift solenoid clicking . Anyone knows what's going on or what I can check?

 

possible bad/dirty ig switch.


DIY Ignition switch cleaning - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

 

here is a video of what it's doing.

 

thanks I will check on to that. And report back.

 

hello. I finally was able to clean the ignition switch and it didn't fixed the problem. Problems still persist.

 

Well for starters, I know that finding A PR4 ECU, is almost impossible these days. I think it's weird they did a swap and kept it automatic. Most companies who make tuned ECUs only make them for manual. That said, you should try to do diagnostics. Find the jumper under the passenger side dash. Use a piece of wire or paperclip to "jump" the wire. Turn the key and see if your check engine light flashes. Also, under the dash, driver side, is your automatic transmission module. This module has a circle window and a red LED that will also give you a code. To reset your ECU, in an attempt to clear the codes, you'll pull the "back-up" fuse under the hood passenger side. The ECU fuse won't reset the code. Personally, I recently had a throttle position sensor (aftermarket) take a crap on me, and it would also idle rough and try to die. I actually replaced the throttle body assembly with an OEM sensor still attached rather than by another sensor that would fail in a year. Finding a throttle body at a junkyard should be cheap and all you'll need is a new gasket.

 

hello. Today I jumped the cel wire and the ecl doesn't flash nor gives codes. I also checked the ECU and it flashes once when I switch to o-ll position and nothing else after that. Which means I have no codes?

 

Also cleaned the throttle body and nothing. Clean the shift lock next to the automatic shifter to the left it was very greasy and nothing. Still shuts off.

 

So, watched that video, and things look like a bit of a mess. Just to let you know, that box on the passenger side, is the warning that your key is in/door is open. You can unplug it and see if that helps. I think it also controls the electric seat belts. Other than that, you seem to have a weird electric issue. Perhaps a rubbed wire somewhere. Mine has an issue where the rear defrost clicks on and off when my wipers are on. Perhaps we have a similar issue. Going to check my Chilton manual and see if I can find something in the wiring diagram. If you turn your key to to ll the check engine light should turn on, relay and fuel pump should engage, then CEL should turn off. If CEL stays on (no jumper) your ECU is bad.

 

yes the wiring is a mess. I disconnected the box you said and it did help with the noise. Also the cel does turn off as it needs to. By the way I have a spare cluster and I swap it out to make sure it has nothing to do with all the craziness going on with what I'm going thru and now seems like my problem is something to do with the transmission? The S3 flashes. I guess the previous owner took the bulb out from the cluster my car had.

 

I believe the s3 light indicates a transmission code. Look under the driver side, there's a gold box that is your auto transmission module. It has a round window with a red LED that will give you a code!

 

hello. I did. And I got codes 2,7,8.

 

So I did a little searching, and someone else had a situation where replacing the transmission control module fixed their problem. I'm going to check my manual to see what the codes are. If u need a module, I have one!

 

Here's what my manual says about the trouble codes.

 

Auto Trans trouble codes

 

hello. I checked for codes and the ECU have no codes. I did the automatic transmission ecu and it gave me codes 2,7,8.

 

Check reply and photos above. ^^^^^^^^^^

 

took the solenoids A and B and cleaned them up with carb cleaner and it cleared the codes and the s3 flashing. I have no cel nor transmission codes either.

 

Could this be a ground issue? The only grounds I see on my car are the valve cover to radiator support, thermostat grounds, negative battery post to transmission.

 

Today I changed the distributor cap and rotor and no start. Wants to start but doesn't. I know I have fuel I can see just a bit of it from the fuel rail.

Now it's a no start issue oh Lord. I updated my post with things I have done.

4/24 UPDATE: now I'm dealing with a no start issue.
things I have done:
Check all connections
Check all fuses
Clean the thermostat grounds
Move the valve ground to bat and frame "fixed all the clicking and buzzing
Replace distributor cap and rotor
Clean the plugs for now
Check the wires
Check for code NO CODES
Replace the main relay
Got a spare pr4 automatic ecu

 

Reset the ECU by pulling the "back-up" fuse for a few minutes. (Under the hood passenger side) After you reinstall turn the key, see if you hear the fuel pump. Then the check engine light should shut off. If you don't hear the pump, try to replace the main relay. If the check engine light stays on, the ECU is bad. Other than that. Try to trickle charge your battery, and check the "starter signal" fuse.

 

hello I reset the ECU I have no codes. I do hear the fuel pump prime. I try a different main relay and another pr4 ecu and nothing. Right now my main issue is the car not starting. It was before but now no. I updated the things I have done so far. I really want this Integra running it's my first DA and I'm excited.

 

Does anyone knows if this is a obd0 integra distributor? The distributor that my car have is was different than this one.

 

Round white plug, obd-0. Rectangle grey, obd1.

 

I have good news! Swap the distributor and now my Integra runs 😱 I'm so happy.