Ok I am installing an AEM wideband 02 kit in an OBD1 Integra. The kit came with the Bosch 4.9 LSU and I've installed plenty of these before but never in a vehicle without some sort of EMS. The vehicle is running a virgin P72 ecu and I'm trying to figure out how to do this install without causing a constant CEL. The car has two bungs but only one allows enough clearance to actually install a sensor. My thoughts are to run only the Bosch wideband in place of the factory narrowband sensor, wire the power/ground as usual, then put the AEM in narrow band sim mode and connect to the white wire @ the 4wire stock 02 harness.
(I believe white is the signal wire) This should take care of closed loop fueling and leave me with just the lack of a heater circuit to deal with. For this issue I was thinking a resistor between the two black wires @ the factory O2 harness.
(I believe both black are for the heater)
My questions are A) am I on the right track with this, electrical is not my strong suit, B) has anyone done this and can share how well it worked, and C) if this will indeed work what spec resistor do I need to trick the heater circuit? I did some searching and found someone say a 1/4W 1k is what I need, then found others saying I need 5-7-10 watt resistors and that I should heat wrap it because it will get very hot? I have a ton of 1/8 and 1/4 watt resistors in just about every resistance I could need but never had to buy any heavy 5-10 watt ones. Anyone who can shed light on this process would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Car is a 1995 Integra GSR, B18C1 with one 4-wire O2 sensor currently at the entrance to the cat, right after the header "downpipe".

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...iring-3028367/

 

Thanks for the help, but I'm fine with the wiring I just need to know how to handle the factory O2 heater. Just hooking up the white wire of the AEM to the signal wire of the stock O2 will give him narrowband readings yea, but then the check engine light will still throw because it's not seeing an O2 heater signal anymore either. This is the part I need to get around for him because he wants the wideband installed in place of his factory O2 but without any CEL. Mainly I just need someone to chime in that has dealt with the resistor needed to take care of the heater code caused by not having a factor O2. Thanks again!

 

its never a good idea to use a wideband to simulate narrowband signal to the stock ecu. wideband sensors are too sensitive. just weld a second bung in and install the wideband for a display only

 

What program are you running? In Neptune, I just disable O2. Otherwise, I have the same prob. Otherwise, I do think i've seen somewhere there is a workaround. I may have to dig a bit on that one though.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...istor-1803089/

post 13 has some info on an inline resistor that could be used.

 

This isn't for my vehicle, I'm installing for a friend who is running a stock virgin P72. Not chipped or anything. Reason he wants the wideband is just for monitoring because he wants to run a 14.0 bracket with a little shot of N20 with a basically stock GS-R daily driver. When he said he wasn't tuning with anything I advised he should at least run a wideband so if he sees a crazy lean condition or anything weird he can get out of the throttle. It should be a safe deal, it's a simple NX single nozzle wet kit and he plans to run 50shot nitrous jets. Even without timing adjustments the engine should handle that fine, but I told him a wideband and NGK 7's was bare minimum necessity so he can atleast dial in the proper fuel jet and have some idea of what's going on. Hopefully once he gets the "bug" I can convince him to go S300. For now though he took my advice and bought an AEM UEGO but now that he's come to me for the install I'm a little stuck with the factory O2 heater signal. The rest of the install went fine, I've done it quite a few times so the wiring is no big deal, I just wired everything at the ECU harness and installed the gauge where his clock delete was. Thanks a lot for your help, I did some digging too but couldn't find any solid info on the resistor part so I truly appreciate it. Strangers helping friends helping friends, that's the way I like to see the Honda community!

 

The wideband is going to be for display only basically, the guy is running a small hit of giggle gas so I told him a wideband and plugs should be the bare minimum if he's not gonna go S300 or equivalent. I did not know the narrowband sim was bad though, I've never run a UEGO on stock ecu before. Is the signal not accurate enough to run the car well in closed loop, is that what you mean? I was thinking about just saying screw it and welding another bung in for him and not even mentioning it, but there's already two plugged bungs on the header not being used plus a third before the cat where the current primary O2 is so I didn't wanna add a fourth damn hole in the exhaust lol. Whoever made his replica header did a crappy job copying it too; it's an older Randy Fab Narrow style clone that doesn't seem too bad in quality but the two O2 bungs on it are useless. One is only maybe an inch away from the trans case, so no room for a sensor there and the other is on top of the "down pipe". Who the hell puts a bung on the top of a header collector pipe? Lol. Anyway, thanks for the heads up on the narrowband sim, but could you give a little more detail why it's bad. (As in, does it cause rich issues, stumbling:stuttering issues in part throttle, causes a CEL, etc)
Like I said this is new territory for me so I would like to learn that way if there is a next time I will already know. Thanks againz

 

Thanks again for helping me find that page, works like a charm now. Going to give a slightly detailed write up on what I did in case anyone ever searches again how to wire a Wideband to a stock ECU with no check engine code. First I Wired the AEM wideband power supply and ground to the ecu power and ground, then the signal wire from AEM harness (white wire) to D14 pin (Primary O2) at the ECU. The blue wire in the AEM harness is unused and is for logging software. I then disconnected the factory O2 sensor connector at the harness and deleted everything down to the harness, then tucked that out of the way and zip tied. Wired in a 1K OHM 1/4 watt resistor between A25 & A6 at the ECU and This took care of the heater circuit CEL. All wire connections are done via solder and then wrapped in heat shrink and/or HD electrical tape when done. Simply twisting wires together will NOT cut it here. After this I simply removed the factory O2 from the exhaust (17mm I believe, I used my O2 specialty wrench.) Then put a little anti seize on the threads of the new wideband sensor, in this case a Bosch LSU 4.9, making sure not to get any gunk past the threads or on the sensor itself. Wideband O2 gets tightened down in place of the factory O2. For running the wires in from the engine bay, I chose the rubber grommet that is near the battery area on the fire wall. I had already drilled this grommet out some previously on his car to run a 4 ga power wire for an amplifier so it seemed like an easy In. I fed the wire in through the grommet and grabbed it from behind the glove box inside the car. We're mounting his AEM gauge where the clock normally goes on the dash, so I fed enough wire Into the slot and then zip tied the remaining wire coiled and out of the way on the metal mount behind the glove box. After double checking all connections, I did a start/test and let the car warm up. AEM seemed to be functioning fine so I took the car for a spin and drove about 20 mins/11-12 miles: no CEL and the corrections made by the narrowband simulation output from the AEM seem to be spot on because the car ran excellent and the AFRs seem perfectly in check. (For Reference, AEM unit must be set to setting P04 for narrowband simulation output. This is done via a tiny precision screw driver and the little dial on the rear of the AEM unit.)
Well that's all there was to it, thanks everyone who helped make this owner even happier with his beloved Honda!

 

the reason I said what I did above, is because wideband sensors are a lot more fragile than oem narrowband sensors. if the sensor glitches or fails, you could be in for some very bad news.
when wired correctly, it works fine. it just doesn't last anywhere near as long

 

Glad it all worked out and I could point ya in a useful direction!

 

sorry for bringing this back from the dead, but I am curious how this is going 1 year later... Is the wideband still holding true or did it eventually fail? I am thinking of doing this to my '01 ITR since I already had a wideband on a turbo setup, but I decided to go back to NA and dont feel like getting rid of it. The only exception is I also have a secondary O2 sensor to worry about