2004 Honda Accord Coupe window problems
The windows in my 2004 Honda Accord Coupe started working delayed operation but still functioned after a while the passenger side window switch would not operate the fod would roll down the window but as soon as I turn the ignition on it came back up then the driver's side begin operating on Delay then stopped functioning all together I thought it was the switch so I replaced it and still have no window function any suggestions
Pull the drivers side window switch. Turn the key to on - where it would be if the engine was running - the #10 pin should have battery voltage - does it?
If so, get two pieces of wire. Jump #10 to #11 and then #23 to body ground - make sure you have a good ground source. Does the window go down?
If not, you are going to have to pull the door panel and then test the window motor directly....will have to look that one up as I don't have it saved anywhere that I can find right now.
EDIT/P.S. - if the window did go down, to make it go back up. Connect #10 and #23, then apply ground to #11
If so, get two pieces of wire. Jump #10 to #11 and then #23 to body ground - make sure you have a good ground source. Does the window go down?
If not, you are going to have to pull the door panel and then test the window motor directly....will have to look that one up as I don't have it saved anywhere that I can find right now.
EDIT/P.S. - if the window did go down, to make it go back up. Connect #10 and #23, then apply ground to #11
So I I jumped the wires like you said the window went up and down then I heard a little pop and now nothing no window power locks and all the gauges don't work and I can find the fuse that blew
Under dash, check the #7 and #21 fuses - start counting from the bottom row from left to right, when done counting on the bottom row then move to the middle row and continue counting from left to right. If those are good you will need to move to the under hood fuse box, more things would not be working.....in the under hood #15 and #23 would be the two to check.
This proves a few things.......wires are good. Motor is still suspect (not sure why the fuse blew - motor drawing too many amps?). Window switch is still in play - yes you replaced it but I'm still keeping it on the list.
From here you are going to have to pull the door panel and test the motor directly and the inputs to the motor.
By chance are you the one on another forum where the issue started after an "iced up pass window"?
This proves a few things.......wires are good. Motor is still suspect (not sure why the fuse blew - motor drawing too many amps?). Window switch is still in play - yes you replaced it but I'm still keeping it on the list.
From here you are going to have to pull the door panel and test the motor directly and the inputs to the motor.
By chance are you the one on another forum where the issue started after an "iced up pass window"?
Pull the drivers side window switch. Turn the key to on - where it would be if the engine was running - the #10 pin should have battery voltage - does it?
If so, get two pieces of wire. Jump #10 to #11 and then #23 to body ground - make sure you have a good ground source. Does the window go down?
If not, you are going to have to pull the door panel and then test the window motor directly....will have to look that one up as I don't have it saved anywhere that I can find right now.
EDIT/P.S. - if the window did go down, to make it go back up. Connect #10 and #23, then apply ground to #11
If so, get two pieces of wire. Jump #10 to #11 and then #23 to body ground - make sure you have a good ground source. Does the window go down?
If not, you are going to have to pull the door panel and then test the window motor directly....will have to look that one up as I don't have it saved anywhere that I can find right now.
EDIT/P.S. - if the window did go down, to make it go back up. Connect #10 and #23, then apply ground to #11
It most definitely worked for the driver window.
Helped save me so much trouble and bought me time to be able to get new switch. Thanks so much
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Pull the drivers side window switch. Turn the key to on - where it would be if the engine was running - the #10 pin should have battery voltage - does it?
If so, get two pieces of wire. Jump #10 to #11 and then #23 to body ground - make sure you have a good ground source. Does the window go down?
If not, you are going to have to pull the door panel and then test the window motor directly....will have to look that one up as I don't have it saved anywhere that I can find right now.
EDIT/P.S. - if the window did go down, to make it go back up. Connect #10 and #23, then apply ground to #11
If so, get two pieces of wire. Jump #10 to #11 and then #23 to body ground - make sure you have a good ground source. Does the window go down?
If not, you are going to have to pull the door panel and then test the window motor directly....will have to look that one up as I don't have it saved anywhere that I can find right now.
EDIT/P.S. - if the window did go down, to make it go back up. Connect #10 and #23, then apply ground to #11
Hi, hoping you can help me. 04 Honda Accord driver's window was not working, all other windows did. Fuses in passenger fuse box are good, replaced motor and switch now none of the windows work....
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