I just picked up a 94 vx hatch as a beater for the rest of winter. Problem is guy had a momo steering wheel & SRS light on. I did the horn mod correctly & the light still is on & no horn. If I do the paperclip reset where the SRS double flashes will that then allow me/the mod to work & thus my horn work. Im getting a new horn tomorrow just in case but so far all Ive found is that if the SRS light is on the horn wont work regardless. Its the only thing keeping me from a sticker & I need this car asap! I could really use some help. Ive done a lot of research but no straight answer due to dead link & pics. I also don't want to do anything that may deploy the pass side bag as its still in. Thanks in advance to anyone that can help me

 

Have you pulled the steering wheel to see how the horn is connected if at all?

My parts car (95 civic si coupe) had an after market steering wheel put in and since the stock clock spring isn't compatible, they removed that and actually just used braided wire to be a brush to run inside the steering wheel hub to complete the horn circuit.

Maybe your horn isn't connected at all?

Also if you are concerned about messing with your SRS and deploying the passenger air bag, you can drop your glove box and just under the dash at the top of the glove box is a plastic plate and plastic rivet screw if I recall. Remove the plastic plate and you will see the red terminator plug cap that you can and are supposed to put over the plug wire going to the passenger air bag.

You can use that to terminate the airbag plug while you do the work on the driver side srs without worry. Just remove the terminator and plug the air bag wire bag into it's mating yellow harness plug and it's back to normal operation.

I can dig up the srs fsm page for that tomorrow in the evening if you need.

 

I haven't removed the wheel itself yet, I didn't think it was needed since the mod(wire completing the circuit) wasn't done. I did remove the cover & the dash inside part. I checked the fuse and then used a wire to plug into the 4 pin connector under the dash, ran it to the back of the wheel as a test & that didn't do anything. Does the 4 pin connector need to be plugged back in for it to trigger the horn? I watched a few videos & did what those guys did and nothing happened which is what led me think it was the SRS light being on or the horn itself.
I did notice that it doesn't seem to have the correct horn on it. Instead of the horn on my EK(normal little circle) it has one that is plastic & kind of looks like a small turbo. It was filled with water. I didn't get time to get the bumper off to check it yesterday.
When you say terminator, is that the paper clip trick? My fear was if I used a paper clip on the drivers side to reset the light it may set off the pass side bag. So far my understanding is if the SRS light is on the horn wont work no matter what. If I did the paper clip trick to eliminate the light then maybe the mod(wire completes circuit) would work and Im good to go. Other then that Im not sure what I should look for.

 

I can't say I know the answers to your questions. But I can share what I do know and witnessed.

The horn wiring stock normally runs through the SRS plug of the steering wheel. I think it is 2 of the 4 grey wires in the plug but have not confirmed that. The FSM pages will show that.

Then when I was ripping parts out of my parts car I took the steering wheel off as it was come cheap after market wheel. What I noticed is that there was not a clock spring of any sort. The stock one the SRS plug normally runs through to the air bag and the horn was removed. In it's place they rigged up a piece of 1cm wide braided wire to ride along the inside of the metal hub. They then had found the horn wires in the plug and made sure to connect one to the hub and then the other I suspect went to ground. I did not actually verify the srs plug side of the wiring to the setup as I wasn't concerned about the car but just made note of their work around for the clock spring as I thought it would be handy if I ever went to an aftermarket steering wheel. I also did not look to see how they prevented the SRS light from flashing, nor did I verify the SRS light even worked when I had it started before buying. So really, the only part I did notice is the clock spring work around.

Like I said, I can post up the FSM pages for the SRS so you can see where the stock parts are and what not. Just let me know if you want the SRS FSM pages for your car (92-95 civic).

 

I you wouldn't mind posting them Id appreciate it. Right now Im waiting till tomorrow for a new horn as they didn't have one other then some truck air horn thing. Ive watched the youtube NRG wheel guide and one other video where they find a black plug with 4 connectors that seems to feed into the stock wheel. They find which one triggers the horn & tap into it. Since I couldn't find that Im basically doing what you see in this video as it seems the more common route. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuWI6GZYBHc

Ive asked in a few places but no straight answer but if the SRS light is on will that stop the horn from working. If not then my horn is definitely the problem. I did what you see in the video but still no working horn. So my plan was to do this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4t4ds8ae9tM&t=3s Hope that resets it which should allow the horn/new horn to work. If not then Im not sure what it could be with the light reset & the mod. I used a cut pop can instead of a wire, Ive see a caughter pin, pop can & paperclip all used to make the connection.

Now that you've mentioned it I have a strong feeling Im over complicating it & need to look for the 4 gray wires. I did see one person tap into those but I cant find the video again & every search brings up the same methods Ive used already. Once my phone charges Ill take a few pictures if that will help

 

Okay digging up the pages, the FSM that was available for download on the Inet back in the day is for the 92 civic and does not have the passenger airbag info.

However my 93 ETM manual does have all the wiring info for the SRS.

And I see I made a mistake, the horn only uses a single wire from the SRS plug. The hard part is all the wires in that plug are grey.

So you will definitely want to isolate and put the terminator cap onto your passenger air bag before you go probing around the SRS plug on the steering wheel with a multimeter to isolate the horn wire.

The first 3 pictures are the ETM pics, the remainder are the FSM pics that may be of some use but are not your complete setup.

Connector 803 is the one down the steering column that you see in 23-271 cable reel to SRS main harness.

 

And I found this thread concerning getting the horn working again on an aftermarket steering wheel.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...g-why-2775055/

Looking at your video you said you used and posted above. That appears to be a different method. It's going to the horn relay. Everything I've seen has always used the horn switch wire in the 6 pin SRS plug C803. It's only one wire.

The trick is the cable reel work around, which is where I think you are trying the aluminum can and some pin trick.

What brand Quick release hub are you using or if not quick release what brand hub?

And lastly, when doing anything with the 92-95 SRS stuff, you HAVE to use the red terminator cap on all airbags in the car. So in your case, the passenger airbag.

On later models like the 96-00 the air bag plugs auto terminated themselves when you unplug them so there is no red terminator cap. Not so for 92-95.

 

That's what Ive just been told but no one can link me the right way or give me any exacts. Instead of using the relay method find a wire behind the wheel like in the NRG video, but even that video does a pop can style method with a copper connector.
Im not sure what brand it is, all I know is its an older momo steering wheel. I do have an older ebay sparco quick release but Im not sure if it would fit correctly as it was bought for an EK model.
Ill have to look in the morning & plug up the terminator on the pass side. Do I need to unhook the battery for that step or can I just unplug with car off & put the red cap in?
Ive got a decent idea of what Im shooting for tomorrow, first plug the terminator in, then Im going to test the horn, if that doesn't work run a new one from autozone, then go to the wheel & find the right wire, if that fails try(just to see) the method in the video. If pictures from another angle would help just let me know, sorry they are so dark

 

I believe you said your srs light is blinking.

The following thread will help you identify the code for the SRS and how to pull the codes:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...lists-1901557/

Oh wait, that is for 96+... I will look at the FSM for the appropriate pages. bleh!

 

Sorry If I miss typed it, Its not blinking its just on. The blinking is if I do the paperclip reset to it. You put a paper clip in the 2wire yellow plug, in and out while the iginitons on & then it will blink twice and turn itself off. Im not sure if that just resets the code to stop or disables it. I was only doing that because I was told the horn wont work no matter what if that light is on. I did finally get a message back from the previous owner saying the horn wasn't hooked up when he got it so off with the bumper to test the horn. Crap thing is its 30 & snowing outside with a 15 mph wind so progess is slowed at this point.

 

I fixed my FSM pages to be reasonable in size as the SRS troubleshooting is quite a few pages. This is for the 92-95. It doesn't cover the passenger airbag though, so make sure you install the red terminator cap onto the passenger airbag before disconnecting or messing with any other SRS wiring or connectors. Battery first, cap all airbags, then proceed to trouble shoot, test and rewire.: