Hey ht. Im in a little dilema, I'm trying to figure out which spring rate to run. I've tried researching but for some reason the numbers are clear. maybe I'm over looking something.

what i want to know is which tial q bov spring rate i would want to go with. and any info on how to figure out for future builds and this build. currently running a hks bov(its terrible)

Build:
ls/vtec
wiesco 9:1
eagle h beam
gsr ported head
brian crower valve springs
ctr cams
skunk2 intake mani
rc 750cc
brms ramhorn manifold
57 60/63 garrett turbo
3" down pipe
2" hot side/ 2 1/2" cold side
hondata s300 v2 bbg
currently making 412 hp dyno jet

thanks again

 

here you go
http://www.tialsport.com/documents/w3_tial_qqr_sp.pdf

 

Correct. you go by the vacuum of the car, not the psi you're trying to go to.

 

after you install it, do a light rev up to 3k or so and let off, and watch the bov to make sure it actually opens. The last 5 or so Q's I've installed all were stuck closed. some were easy to remove so I could shove the piston in with a plastic hammer handle. the others I found it was faster to put a vacuum pump on it at full vacuum and did a full throttle rev to build some pressure to pop it open.

 

That's a first, in the 15 years I've dealt with them. I've never had to resort to these tactics. It tells me, it was the incorrect vaccum spring for the valve itself, but, I admit, however, I'm not aware of all of the facts.

 

I know right? It was very very odd to me too, especially after they just kept rolling in like that. 5 in a row. and it wasn't a matter of the springs being too stiff, they were literally stuck closed. To where I could put 28"/hg of vacuum to it AND push the piston in by hand with decent pressure and it still wouldn't open. pushing a little harder with vacuum still applied it'd pop right open and then work flawlessly from then on out.
The first one it happened on was a rear mount miata I did the full install on. Idled at 22"/hg, bov spring for 21"/hg, 10psi of boost. First ride out I could hear the turbo surging like hell off light throttle. then did a brief wot pull, let off, zero bov sound and lots of surge. it had 10psi in the pipes and almost 30"/hg vacuum in the line and simply refused to open. That was the one that was so stuck I had to remove it and tap the piston a few times with the plastic handle of a mallet while applying vacuum to it. My only conclusion is it went through multiple hot and severely cold cycles before being shipped to it's final destination, and settled in a bit awkwardly or something. It worked absolutely perfectly after that without changing anything at all

 

That last one may have just been the diaphragm seal being too cold from storage for a while. There have been some seriously cold winters in Michigan that horribly affect products. This year will hopefully be an exception.

 

thats perfect! thank you

good tip! much appreciated
thats an interesting test, I've only seen the stuck valve/piston on eBay knock off boy's before. but ill give her a good look at

seriously much appreciated guys, thanks for all the helpful tips/pointers

 

from what I was able to gather, it actually seemed more like the piston itself was stuck against the housing. either way, it worked perfectly after unsticking it, and I now check every wg and bov before install.

 

Understood.

 

sorry for bringing this back up, i was messing around with my S manager, and was wondering if under datalogging i could fine the in/hg info for which spring rate i needed. the MAP was showing a log of -20.5 to -21.4

is this what i need to be looking at to find my vacuum pressure? thanks again

 

That's about right. MAP will show that.. you're on the right track.

 

awesome! thanks for the clarification.

 

I don't intend to thread-jack, but this thread got me thinking about my build. I'm about to purchase a go autoworks street kit (t3 super 60) and in the description they list the default wastegate spring as a 14psi unit. I'm planning on 300whp on a stock b18b and I'm wondering if the 14psi psi spring will suffice. Any feedback is appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

with waste gates just remember this, you can never run less than your waste gate(psi), so if you want to be safe get a lighter spring and run a MAC solenoid or another type of boost controller.with most boost controllers you can usually double your waste gate pressure. give greg @go_autoworks a call, he's very helpful, makes quality stuff too

 

10-4, thanks for the reply man

 

no worries

 

Tial ships with a 14 PSi combo be default, the street kit uses a 38mm wastegaste which from my understanding has 2 springs in it. Looks to be a 9 psi and a 6 PSI so you have your options 6, 9 or 14 psi. other then that you need to purchase additional springs. I believe you can run up to 3 different springs in that wastegate at least thats what my 44mm did.

I recently purchased the 38mm from greg just havent had a chance to put it to use just yet. Ive seen some ebay listings that come with all the different size springs but have not given that a try always got my wastegates from goautoworks at the same time as my manifold purchase, if you go ebay just be careful of which seller you buy from too many fakes out there.

if you have a number in mind lmk I can help you further with the correct spring combination

 

That's about the right size spring to reach that goal with a super 60 on a stock B18B. Nice call on GAW's part.
Good luck, and God-Speed

 

Thanks man, i didnt know a tial wastegate can accomodate multiple springs. So the 14 psi rating comes from the 6lb spring and 9lb spring being used in conjunction with one another?

Thank you. I was thinking a super 60 would need somewhere around 14-17psi to get to 300, thanks for confirming.