Hello everyone,

I have a 2000 Civic SI with a JDM ITR motor (B18C) swapped in it (motor, transmission, intake, complete swap) and I have a P28 with an S300V3 in it. My problem is that when I'm driving, the car will stutter and backfire while cruising. I figured out it only does this while in closed loop, it runs PERFECT when in open loop and the second it goes into closed loop, the problem reproduces itself. So, I went into SManager and changed the tune to ONLY run in open loop. I take it for a drive after uploading the tune and yet again, it goes into closed loop again. The car will stutter like I mentioned above and the only way to remedy this is to come to a stop, let the car search for an idle, which goes to about 500-600rpm and feel like its gonna stall, then it randomly kicks back up and goes back into open loop and runs beautifully again until it decides to go back into closed loop. It's almost like it doesn't even listen to the tune since I set it to only run in open loop, so it shouldn't be going into closed loop at all but still does anyway. I know I should be in closed loop and I do plan on having it professionally tuned soon, but am low on money right now and can't spend the $500 it costs to have it tuned at a reputable shop. So is there anything I can fix in the tune maybe? I've uploaded the calibration I'm currently using, PLEASE let me know if there's something I've done wrong and can fix/try and see if I can fix this problem. I have all day today and tomorrow off from work and would like to hopefully resolve this in that time frame. Thank you!

PS: I don't own a laptop currently (Only a desktop) so I can't provide a datalog of the problem occurring (unless I can record one without having a laptop) which is why I haven't attached a datalog to my post.

My tune file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-r...ew?usp=sharing

 

1) how are you uploading the file to the ecu without a laptop?
2) how do you know when it switches between open loop and closed loop?


- it sounds like an ignition timing (too retarded) and/or fueling (too rich or too lean, by quite a bit) issue, both the main maps and the compensation maps.

 

1. I bring the computer into the house, plug it into the desktop, upload, and bring it back out to the car!
2. I have the Hondata app on my phone and connect to the ecu via bluetooth and when the car starts stuttering I can see it switch to open loop on the app and when it kicks back to open loop I can see that as well.

 

I am not sure that powering up the Hondata board via a USB cable provides all of the proper voltage necessary to successfully upload a calibration. I believe you must provide the proper power and grounds in the A and B plugs to do it.

There is nothing in the software that would allow the ECU to selectively alter from Open or Closed loop operation at will... especially if you have selected the "Open Loop" option in the pull down menu.

 

Just spoke to a Hondata rep, I've been doing it all wrong. I've figured it all out and am all set now. Thank you to everyone who helped me out!

 

What did you do to correct?