okay so I have a 94 Acura integra Ls 5 speed manual, and I'm putting a jdm gsr into the car. I only have a p72-901 auto ecu that came with the motor, as far as the Acura dealer and other sources say that it can be used for my 5 speed, and pinout will be the same as the p72-ao1. So with that being said, this helpful link https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/92-00-honda-engine-swap-wiring-guide-vtec-non-vtec-2987229/ shows how to hook up vtec, IAB, oxygen sensor and k-sensor. But when I look at plug a on my harness it has a red wire coming out we're the IAB should go. I will apologize in advance if this has been covered and I just couldn't find anything regarding this. All other things that need to be wired in have empty spots where they should go, this is the only one that has a wire in the spot. The red wire per the Acura manual is the evap purge control solenoid valve. If anyone can help shine some light on this that would be great!

 

I may be wrong but if you are hooking up a gsr motor to an ls ecu it wont work due to the vtec. You can wire it up and run the wire to the ecu but the ecu wouldnt know what to do with the switch.

 

Sorry due to my error the diagram was a little off. Here is the corrected one

 

I have a p72-901 ecu for an automatic. But I've been told by a few different sources it will work, I'll just get the cel for the automatic lock out solenoid or something like that. I was told to just throw in the p75 before I do emissions and I should be good!

 

Sell it. Get a P28 and chip it for P72. Or find a manual P72. The auto ECU more than likely have lower redline and less aggressive fuel and timing curves.

 

Well it's going to have to get me by for now so I can get the car running and off the property that it's on. We're would you recommend me looking for the chipped p28 to p72? I don't trust eBay or Craig's list, last resort only. I'm very new to this sort of thing and would like to get the full potential of my gsr. Thanks again for the help!

 

Are you pretty mechanically/electrically handy? If so you could buy a virgin P28 and do the socketing yourself. Three reputable companies on this site and also Xenocron, Rywire, etc.

 

I hope you get it working!

P72 for auto - were there any automatic GSRs?

 

I know a thing or two about wiring/electrical stuff. But I have a friend that used to build boards for a company that made mixers for dj type stuff, and he did that for 10+years. So we're could I get a virgin p28? Or could I just buy a p72 from an auto parts store for 150$

 

As far as I know there were automatic gsr's produced in Japan only. But none in the US. This is information from a guy that's been in the business for a while.

 

Never mind, 455 dollars for p72-ao1 Re-manufactured

 

There's also the option to convert a P06 or P74 to P28 if you're up for it. But I'd look in the classifieds here or find someone locally doing a part out for a P28. Junkyards especially pull your own parts may be an option as well.

VTEC Conversion « Moates Support

 

Cool link! I saw they also briefly describe how to convert an Auto to Manual OBD1 ECU: Auto to Manual « Moates Support

Would that work here?

 

So the JDM ecu will work auto but it's pretty easy to convert it to manual, can socket it and run a p72 basemap. Any obd1 ecu can work or your p72, the evap that you say is in the way for the iab at the ecu doesn't make any sense the red wire is pin 20 for evap and pin 17 is iab This is pinout for obd 1 a plug

 

If I can convert it than that would save me a lot of money. I've seen the video on how to convert it to manual, but I was unaware that you can socket the auto too. Can I buy the kit online somewhere? My busy is great with wiring. Thanks.

 

 

Naive question, but can't you simply trick an auto P72 into "seeing" a shifter interlock, or whatever it is looking for?

 

the auto to manual is simple there's plenty of write up online, nothing special needed besides soldering skills. The socket is the same for for auto or manual board. Once you do the auto to manual conversion it is no longer auto so you won't get any codes for auto transmission. Wiring isn't the issue he needs to be good with through hole and surface mount soldering to do it.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/engine...l-ecu-3000751/

 

So a little update on this topic regarding my setup. The Ls 5 speed that I'm pulling out of a 94 teg has the obd1 p75 ecu and I found a local tune shop that will convert it to vtec chipped and socketed with the gsr basemap for 100$ it will have the ks deleted and won't be able to run the IAB. I assume that I can have them make this work somehow or I can bypass this in someway. Im not sure how to make the IAB that will not be hooked up, work in a way that will be benifishal to my setup. Open all the time or closed all the time? Can I wire it up to the evap? I know earlier on in this thread I talked about no evap vs IAB, can I switch this around because it has the same plug?is the IAB not even worth it? Stock jdm gsr B18C 1995 with the dual butterflies IM. No current mods, not planning to go turbo. Any info or advise would be greatly appreciated!

 

In Japan. It's called SIR-G.

To make it from Automatic to Manual. I was told you can remove the resistor that is solder onto the PCB board. I know by a few people that have done it on there USDM. Not sure if it will work on the JDM P72.

You may can use a resistor to bypass the EVAP and IAB on the ECU. I would just do it right and get your EVAP and IAB working the right way.

 

the evap will function with the chipped and socketed p75 obd1 ecu with gsr basemap. it's just I won't have knock sensor or the IAB. As far as I know the p75 can't control IAB and then I believe it would always be open. I do plan on getting an aftermarket IM so I would be able to run IAB anyways.

 

So I wouldn't be able to run IAB anyways.

Correction..

 

Ah yes - fascinating! And this thread touched on the topic as well: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...-cams-3286395/

 

Not sure what your ultimate goals are for the engine & car. If you are going to an aftermarket intake right away, then there is no need for IAB, eh?

Trying to wire IAB to Evap Purge will not work. Evap solenoid opens once coolant temp reaches 163 degrees F. IAB solenoid opens at idle, and closes at 5,750 RPM.

As one who has been driving around (unknowingly) w/o IAB for years, I look forward to feeling the difference between butterflies open (short runners) vs. closed (long runners).

Good luck!