No fuel: injection problem.
Intro: hey what's up guys I just joined today I've read many Honda tech forums over the years and this is my go to website for diagnostics. I created an account because I've searched and searched and cannot troubleshoot my issue I've seen a couple of things posted and some my car passed- it was not the issue and the rest I didn't know how to test.
Info and background: bought a 1995 Honda del sol a couple years ago, finally got around to the swap this month.
D16y7 non vtec with a d15b7 brand new dizzy it's OBD1 and it is throwing a code or two but I'm pretty sure it's just the vtec because it's wired for vtec but not hooked up. Otherwise I'm not entirely sure how to check it.
Problem: injectors aren't working, ecu is good I swapped it out, main relay is good I swapped it out and I can hear the fuel pump prime. Sprayed starting fluid into throttle body and started right up. Also changed out gas with some fresh 91 oct also all fuses are good incuding Ecu fuse and fuse 18
Fuel pump is good, spark is strong. Thermostat ground is good, clean, and properly grounded
Im not entirely sure how to test for ground as far as the injectors go but the injectors do have power I have fuel to the rail but the injectors just aren't firing.
Any help would be appreciated I just don't know what else to do.
Thanks, Dustin.
Info and background: bought a 1995 Honda del sol a couple years ago, finally got around to the swap this month.
D16y7 non vtec with a d15b7 brand new dizzy it's OBD1 and it is throwing a code or two but I'm pretty sure it's just the vtec because it's wired for vtec but not hooked up. Otherwise I'm not entirely sure how to check it.
Problem: injectors aren't working, ecu is good I swapped it out, main relay is good I swapped it out and I can hear the fuel pump prime. Sprayed starting fluid into throttle body and started right up. Also changed out gas with some fresh 91 oct also all fuses are good incuding Ecu fuse and fuse 18
Fuel pump is good, spark is strong. Thermostat ground is good, clean, and properly grounded
Im not entirely sure how to test for ground as far as the injectors go but the injectors do have power I have fuel to the rail but the injectors just aren't firing.
Any help would be appreciated I just don't know what else to do.
Thanks, Dustin.
Last edited by Dustinninja; Nov 22, 2016 at 11:28 AM. Reason: Left out details
Hi Dustin, some important information is missing.
You did and engine swap and both engine you indicated are non-vtec motors. And yet you say vtec is wired but not connected.
Now the missing information is what ECU do you have in the car. P28, P06 or P2E or some other ECU?
The Distributor, what is it? TD-41U is the D15B7 distributor if my memory serves me correctly while the D16Z6 OBD1 Distributor is the TD-42U.
More information is required to have an idea of where to start poking around in your swap.
I suspect you are not using the correct ECU.
You did and engine swap and both engine you indicated are non-vtec motors. And yet you say vtec is wired but not connected.
Now the missing information is what ECU do you have in the car. P28, P06 or P2E or some other ECU?
The Distributor, what is it? TD-41U is the D15B7 distributor if my memory serves me correctly while the D16Z6 OBD1 Distributor is the TD-42U.
More information is required to have an idea of where to start poking around in your swap.
I suspect you are not using the correct ECU.
P28 ECU is the vtec ecu for the D16Z6. I do not know how it will behave being totally disconnected from vtec.
Your codes it's throwing is for vtec solenoid and vtec pressure sensor by the sounds of things.
You can easily verify that by shorting the service connector and counting blink codes.
You need the P06 ECU from a 92-95 Civic DX/LX if you are in the states. If in Canada then the CX/DX and LX all have the P06 and D15B7 engine.
I suspect since it's not getting any kind of feed back from the vtec plugs that the ECU isn't operating the fuel injectors.
Your codes it's throwing is for vtec solenoid and vtec pressure sensor by the sounds of things.
You can easily verify that by shorting the service connector and counting blink codes.
You need the P06 ECU from a 92-95 Civic DX/LX if you are in the states. If in Canada then the CX/DX and LX all have the P06 and D15B7 engine.
I suspect since it's not getting any kind of feed back from the vtec plugs that the ECU isn't operating the fuel injectors.
I'll take a video of the cel flashing tomorrow and try to get the codes for you tomorrow thanks
if it helps I had the car running before the initial start up was pretty harsh but I finally got it started and it did fine I went to replace a balljoint and now it doesn't start at all thought it was the distributor so I replaced it now I'm actually trouble shooting and that's not the case
if it helps I had the car running before the initial start up was pretty harsh but I finally got it started and it did fine I went to replace a balljoint and now it doesn't start at all thought it was the distributor so I replaced it now I'm actually trouble shooting and that's not the case
Check fuel pressure. Saying there is fuel to the rail doesn't mean the pressure is correct. If you don't have a gauge, at least disconnect the return line after the regulator and confirm that fuel flows out. That proves the pump is making enough pressure to open the regulator which checking for flow at the filter doesn't. After checking that use a noid light to see if the fuel injectors are being driven.
A P28 ECU can be re-jumpered to be non VTEC but that is not what is preventing starting.
A P28 ECU can be re-jumpered to be non VTEC but that is not what is preventing starting.
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I have pressure I don't have a gauge but I cracked the fuel filter nut and fuel comes out when the fuel pump primes
is there anything I can use to jump the service connector?
is there anything I can use to jump the service connector?
That is what I said not to do. Test after the regulator instead. Disconnect the return line at the firewall and put it into a clean container, that way you can examine the fuel to see if it has water in it.
Unbolt the fuel rail and pull the injectors out. Once the fuel rail is unbolted there's only small o-rings at the injector tips holding the injectors in. Have someone crank the engine while you aim the injectors into a a pan to catch the fuel. Make sure the injectors are connected to the harness during testing if, you removed the harness to pull the injectors out of the head.The injectors should spray in a V-pattern mist and in a timed cadence. When/if you pull the injectors out inspect the o-rings for damage and replace if needed. Use a pick tool to carefully remove the o-ring. Before you re-install the injectors put a light coating of synthetic grease (for ex: Napa Syl-Glide) on the o-rings to prevent tearing them.
I figured out the problem,
i had an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator so I changed it to stock and it build up the pressure the injectors
then I accidentally plugged the green vtec sensor into the temperature sensor
and my map sensor was bad
thanks guys! It's all good now
i had an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator so I changed it to stock and it build up the pressure the injectors
then I accidentally plugged the green vtec sensor into the temperature sensor
and my map sensor was bad
thanks guys! It's all good now
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