Hey guys I have been trying to figure this issue out for months and can not seem to fix it. When car is warming up everything seems normal, once at temp the idle will go from 750 down to almost 0 and then will bounce around 500. when accelerating car will bog until 3000rpm then some times will accelerate fine but sometimes it will start bogging around 5000. Vtec will engage but really the motor gets louder no real feeling ( and I know what people say about vtec not kicking in but before i started working on it you could feel the vtec hit so that is how I know its not fully working)

Quick history: 1992 GSR b17a1, I have relocated battery to trunk (battery is not the original battery size its out of another car I have but CCA are about the same), have a Mishimoto radiator fan that I have hooked up to a manual switch through an inline fuse and relay (had to do that because I took out the A/C) i have the power wire running off the battery fuse under the hood, I have the external coil set up ( i have had that installed for a while before I did all the other and the issues popped up), and have a after market exhaust; header no cat magnaflow muffler.

I have checked the timing with a timing light, made sure spark plugs were gaped correctly, made sure all wire connections and grounds are solid, checked all vacuum lines for a vacuum leak but none other than PCV which i fixed this morning, had 270CC injectors but switched back to stock 240CC with no change other than less exhaust pops since no cat.
Only thing I can think of now is 1. when I swapped out the radiator I did not bleed the coolant system, but the temp is fine and has no signs of air in the system but I read that could affect idle. 2. since no cat just straight pipe to muffler maybe its not getting enough back pressure? but again if all it was doing was bogging in acceleration then that would make more sense to me. 3. maybe my fuel injectors are not spraying correctly or not getting enough pressure. 4. Does the battery need to be the correct size? (have not wanted to buy one due to the drain)

any thoughts? I really need some good insight on this one.

 

Check ECT sensor, you may be running rich, if engine starts fine when cold but is harder starting once warm, [running temp] and runs crappy, it is a symptom of a bad ECT sensor, ECU does not "see " the warm engine so A/F ratio stays rich. 94

 

It does it takes a little while to start, like holding the key for about 8 seconds or so an then it finally will turn over. while warming up the idle does not bounce around but once warm it does. But I will definitely check the ECT

 

checked the ECT sensor visually for now. plug was good with no corrosion. will take the sensor out of the block in the morning and see how it looks.

 

When completely code the ect should be around 2000 ohms or so. When the car is warmed up the ohms will drop down to around 200 ohms or so with about ten percent of variance or so.

 

Thank you will check that out. also do you think that if the ECT is bad would that cause the battery drain

 

No, you need to look at some howto vids on yourtube for "parasitic battery drain test".

 

so i checked the ECT and everything looked good but I could not get a reading on the ohms. does the car need to be running to test that? i would think not but just checking. and thanks will do

 

No resistance, [ohms] reading on ECT sensor indicates it is an open circuit, [no good] replace it;

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-m...aw%5D-2962333/ 94

 

Thank you, I checked the drain the way you said too. putting the test light in the middle of the negative post and pulling the negative wire off. Light does not come on. so I kept the negative cable off and put the test light on the negative post and it came on. not very bright and quickly dimmed to nothing. every time I touch the test light to the post without the cable attached, it lights up slightly and dims out. what do you think that means?

 

Okay so I lied about the ECT lol. I was on the wrong setting my bad, so the ECT is reading ohms, when to an auto store and tested a new one and got the same reading. so ECT is fine.
I also checked the amp draw on the battery. on 10a i got -0.04 draw on the battery. not sure what that means but since my battery is in the trunk it is a little hard to pull fuses and see the multi-meter so I will need to wait for some extra hands. though my question is -0.04 amps a significant draw on the battery? and if so do you think the draw could be causing my idle to have issues?