ok guys thanks for looking. It's my first post here but I got a problem I can't find a answer too. I've searched for days now....
So I have a 97 civic 4 dr MANUAL D16Y7. I blew it up. I then purchased a D16Y7 from a yard. I installed the new engine and noticed later it was from a AUTOMATIC D16Y7. So it's installed with the engine harness that came with the engine the AUTOMATIC HARNESS. so I read that it's fine just get the ecu from the auto d16y7 and it's plug and play. So I got a auto ecu from a 98 it's a P2E-A73. It's in and the car will not start. It crank but there is no fuel. No signal to the fuel pump. It also will not connect to the scanner. It doesn't link. I've checked all the fuses and grounds and it all it good. Idk what to do next. I NEED HELP FIGURING THIS OUT. The ecu I took out was a
P2E-337 manual ecu. It one fits two out of 3 plugs from the auto harness. So is there something I need to rewire or repin a manual connector to the auto harness??? Idk. Please help. I need to get this thing running ASAP cuz my wife's been driving me to work and she's going to kill me if I don't finish soon. Thank you.

If I broke any rules I'm sorry I just need to fix this and tried searching but t came up empty.

 

Please re-use your old harness.

 

yeah I wanted too but my old harness is chopped up and would need a lot of repair. I thought using the automatic engine harness and using the auto ecu was useable from everything I have read.
Anyone else have other ideas?

 

yeah, use the correct ecu, check for loose grounds.

 

nah, it'll just make me want to destroy you.

 

huh? Just need some help guys. If putting to old one back in is the only option then I'll have to repair it but as I understand it what I have should work. I'm not a noob working on cars just hondas. I don't have the knowledge of what works with what. But someone gotta have some technical knowledge of what's needed. Thanks

and yes I've gone over all the grounds twice.

 

Do you have an immobilizer on the car?
Did you change the ignition timing by accident / remove the dizzy?

 

If what you have is SUPPOSE TO WORK, than why isn't it working?

 

Thats like saying "well I was told that It wasn't going to rain today but it did"; Quite an open ended question - There could be all kind of factors; Timing, Dead battery, earth not connected.

Though I am confused how he intends to use an Auto ECU + Loom with a Manual car (I assume manual). I've seen people run Auto blocks in manuals with standard manual loom and ecu or chipped ecu for boost but

 

Wait did you plug in the oil pressure sensor at the back? I had no spark once when this sensor was off, its easy to miss, right under the intake manifold.

 

Not really, there's a reason why me and 1 other is telling this guy to use the original. Or at least go find the original replacement.

 

no imobilizer. Didn't change the timing. Remove dizzy to intstall new seal but all was marked for correct positioning.

 

yes. When I went through checking the grounds I went Through the harness and checked all my connections under the intake and all around.

Idk maybe I do need to manual harness just seen a lot of info about others doing auto to manual swaps and they reuse there old harnesses and the auto ecu. Don't know if it work the other way around with manual car and auto harness and ecu

 

No...NO...

I think Finch is on to something. Maybe you should wait for his response. He seems to know more about using an automatic harness and ecu with a manual setup.

 

yeah any help would be appreciated from anyone who's knowledgeable on this stuff.

 

You seem to be making this unnecessarily complicated, as was said before, obtain a manual harness from a parts car to replace your chopped up one.

Manual car might be able to start on an auto ECU (properly wired) but it's never going to run right. It'll throw lots of codes since all the sensors and solenoids related to the auto transmission aren't there.

 

SHHHHH.....

 

hmmmmmm why would i say to use a manual ecu? you have one. go plug it in.

 

Do you have spark? And is it in the correct order? You might have marked up the dizzy so its in perfect place where it came out of but if the order is out it might be 180 flipped (the rotor / locking lugs) so its starting at 4 > 1 > 3 > 2 > 4 > 1 > etc instead of 1 > 3 > 2 > 4 >1 > etc (I think thats the firing order...) I had the issue with a D14 swap I did, my dizzy rotor was 180 flipped (starting in the wrong place) I had spark but no ignition, the engine would turn over but not "catch", and I know it sounds dumb but are you certain the battery is charged?

However I think the problem is with using the Auto-loom and ECU it will be looking for stuff that isn't there like other people mentioned; I think its going to be the solenoids for auto box, the ECU runs a fail safe check on ignition if it gets no voltage back from a circuit its probably going to cut out ignition to stop any damage to the gearbox. Autos are known for being a pain in the *** when a sensor or solenoid in the box goes which is all down to limiting excessive damage that could have been prevented. The way I'd have done it if I had to buy the auto engine would be bare block it, build it as a manual, put on a fly and clutch from a manual and just stick it in utilising the cars original loom etc. It saves all the f**kery of trying to run a auto on a manual gearbox using an auto ecu and loom thats looking for various things a manual wont/doesn't have.

There are like 3? 4? grounds on a D-series; Thermostat, Block/rocker/Head and the Gearbox, might be alternator and starter too but think thats part of the harness its pretty easy to know if you've got them in place or not

how badly "chopped up" is the manual loom and ECU you have? is it salvagable or would a trip to junk yard be easier?

I reckon if you stick a

 

winner!!! winner!!!

 

Sounds possibly more like you have a 99-00 engine harness. If this is the case you won't have fuel pump signal. However don't use the auto ECU.